Question about dual pass endplates
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Joined: 01-05-06
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From: Ft Lauderdale
i have had mine set right after the IM pumping into the heat exchangers so that the coolest possible coolant goes into the laminovas.
if you think this has any negative bearing on pump life, i have had mine set up this way for 2 years now...
it's clear you need to take some money out of the common sense drawer
if you think this has any negative bearing on pump life, i have had mine set up this way for 2 years now...
it's clear you need to take some money out of the common sense drawer
By the way Tenn nice to see your still around!
i have had mine set right after the IM pumping into the heat exchangers so that the coolest possible coolant goes into the laminovas.
if you think this has any negative bearing on pump life, i have had mine set up this way for 2 years now...
it's clear you need to take some money out of the common sense drawer
if you think this has any negative bearing on pump life, i have had mine set up this way for 2 years now...
it's clear you need to take some money out of the common sense drawer
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Joined: 01-05-06
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From: Ft Lauderdale
Not answering for Tenn...but the pump & rough edges in our systems create bubbles...which won't allow heat transfer nearly as good, thats why the pump feeds the heat exchanger.. which feeds the bleeder line to remove the air right after the pump. If the bubbles flow thru the heatexchangers 1st, it doesn't allow the coolant to properly tranfer the heat. Yes our system create bubbles due to all the rough edges and pump impeller, the more you remove them.. the better the system works.
If you did it the other way the pump would see the same kind of temps due to bad Heat transfer thru the H/E, another words the sooner you get rid of the bubbles the cooler the coolant will get while going thru the H/E, the pump will be creating bubbles in the system right before it goes into the intake mani..thus not allowing good heat transfer in the intake manifold & Higher intake temps.
As I said in the post prior I've setup several of these & not 1 car has come back because the pump failed... and this goes back to when it 1st came out almost 5 years ago. Yes our cars came with bad or faulty pumps, if you replace it with a better one you will never have this problem again.
If you did it the other way the pump would see the same kind of temps due to bad Heat transfer thru the H/E, another words the sooner you get rid of the bubbles the cooler the coolant will get while going thru the H/E, the pump will be creating bubbles in the system right before it goes into the intake mani..thus not allowing good heat transfer in the intake manifold & Higher intake temps.
As I said in the post prior I've setup several of these & not 1 car has come back because the pump failed... and this goes back to when it 1st came out almost 5 years ago. Yes our cars came with bad or faulty pumps, if you replace it with a better one you will never have this problem again.
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Joined: 03-12-07
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Right on, I set up several of these years ago including my own car, Josh's car is a DD w/72,000 miles on it w/ 60's and a 2.7 pulley & his car runs as cool as cucumber still. Mine on a 2.8 w/ 42's my temps never get above 125F even sitting still. I'm also running the option B tank w/ 3/4 bleeder line, setup right the pump will never see temps like it was before the mod.
By the way Tenn nice to see your still around!
By the way Tenn nice to see your still around!
Apparently you need some of that common sense too. 1st of all, if you dont think keeping your pump cooler dosent have the potential to extend pump life then your crazy. 2nd, the pump does not heat up the fluid. The fluid does not run thru the whole pump motor assembly picking up heat. The fluid only touches the impeller for what maybe .5 sec? and the impeller does not get hot. Considering the bosch pumps we use fail so much, it's worth a try since there is NO advantage to running it the other way.
2. i never said that keeping the pump cooler doesn't have the potential to extend pump life
3. since i never said that, the rest of your argument is irrelevant
4.. i'll say it again, my setup has been this way for over 2 years since my stock pump failed. my replacement pump is still working
Not answering for Tenn...but the pump & rough edges in our systems create bubbles...which won't allow heat transfer nearly as good, thats why the pump feeds the heat exchanger.. which feeds the bleeder line to remove the air right after the pump. If the bubbles flow thru the heatexchangers 1st, it doesn't allow the coolant to properly tranfer the heat. Yes our system create bubbles due to all the rough edges and pump impeller, the more you remove them.. the better the system works.
If you did it the other way the pump would see the same kind of temps due to bad Heat transfer thru the H/E, another words the sooner you get rid of the bubbles the cooler the coolant will get while going thru the H/E, the pump will be creating bubbles in the system right before it goes into the intake mani..thus not allowing good heat transfer in the intake manifold & Higher intake temps.
As I said in the post prior I've setup several of these & not 1 car has come back because the pump failed... and this goes back to when it 1st came out almost 5 years ago. Yes our cars came with bad or faulty pumps, if you replace it with a better one you will never have this problem again.
If you did it the other way the pump would see the same kind of temps due to bad Heat transfer thru the H/E, another words the sooner you get rid of the bubbles the cooler the coolant will get while going thru the H/E, the pump will be creating bubbles in the system right before it goes into the intake mani..thus not allowing good heat transfer in the intake manifold & Higher intake temps.
As I said in the post prior I've setup several of these & not 1 car has come back because the pump failed... and this goes back to when it 1st came out almost 5 years ago. Yes our cars came with bad or faulty pumps, if you replace it with a better one you will never have this problem again.
[QUOTE=Tennpenn83;5645601]good to see you too buddy!
1. that's your best comeback? really?
2. i never said that keeping the pump cooler doesn't have the potential to extend pump life
3. since i never said that, the rest of your argument is irrelevant
4.. i'll say it again, my setup has been this way for over 2 years since my stock pump failed. my replacement pump is still working
Based on your most recent "comeback" your need to leave me alone. I never said that you disagreed with the cooler pump theory. I was just stating that incase you did think that way. You made a reference to common sense that led me to believe that you did not agree me and did do in a disrespectful manner and I was just telling you what common sense would have told you if has a little more of it.
1. that's your best comeback? really?
2. i never said that keeping the pump cooler doesn't have the potential to extend pump life
3. since i never said that, the rest of your argument is irrelevant
4.. i'll say it again, my setup has been this way for over 2 years since my stock pump failed. my replacement pump is still working
Based on your most recent "comeback" your need to leave me alone. I never said that you disagreed with the cooler pump theory. I was just stating that incase you did think that way. You made a reference to common sense that led me to believe that you did not agree me and did do in a disrespectful manner and I was just telling you what common sense would have told you if has a little more of it.
Thread Starter
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From: Harrisburg, PA
so my IAT's are around 125-130? Is that too high? Bear in mind I only have one IAT reading being a 2.2 supercharged. But I never did get a clear answer for the best placement of the cores in the IM? I guess I'll just follow the diagrams.
mmmmm 125 130 is okay i think. Mine are that high after I race or something but not just driving around town.
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Joined: 03-12-07
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From: Columbus, Ohio
IAT2's are directly proportional to IAT1, and the amount of boost you are pushing, if at all. this statement means nothing to me, as many factor affect IAT2's.
what are your IAT1's at the time? normally IAT2's are around 20 degrees higher than IAT1's under normal cruising.
you are really making yourself look uneducated. i would be willing to bet that...
... ah nevermind. i don't waste my time on retards like you anymore. for the record, i don't agree with you.
what are your IAT1's at the time? normally IAT2's are around 20 degrees higher than IAT1's under normal cruising.
Based on your most recent "comeback" your need to leave me alone. I never said that you disagreed with the cooler pump theory. I was just stating that incase you did think that way. You made a reference to common sense that led me to believe that you did not agree me and did do in a disrespectful manner and I was just telling you what common sense would have told you if has a little more of it.
... ah nevermind. i don't waste my time on retards like you anymore. for the record, i don't agree with you.
IAT2's are directly proportional to IAT1, and the amount of boost you are pushing, if at all. this statement means nothing to me, as many factor affect IAT2's.
what are your IAT1's at the time? normally IAT2's are around 20 degrees higher than IAT1's under normal cruising.
you are really making yourself look uneducated. i would be willing to bet that...
... ah nevermind. i don't waste my time on retards like you anymore. for the record, i don't agree with you.
what are your IAT1's at the time? normally IAT2's are around 20 degrees higher than IAT1's under normal cruising.
you are really making yourself look uneducated. i would be willing to bet that...
... ah nevermind. i don't waste my time on retards like you anymore. for the record, i don't agree with you.
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Joined: 03-12-07
Posts: 1,585
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From: Columbus, Ohio
YOU ARE 100% WRONG! Our cars have a temp sensor after the supercharger a.k.a IAT2. So IAT2's are in NOWAY derived by the scan gauge using info from IAT1. IAT1 has it's own senrsor and so does IAT2. And maybe it is usually 20 degrees higher than IAT1's under cruising conditions but not if you're jammin on it.
IAT1's directly affect IAT2. no **** there are 2 sensors, that's why i said IAT1, and IAT2
If IAT1's are higher to begin with, then IAT2's will be even higher as a result. if you started off with 30* IAT1's, then it's probably good to expect lower IAT2's than if you were at 90* IAT1's. there's no way that your statement "my IAT's hover around 70" is accurate, as if your IAT1's were over 70 to begin with, I would highly doubt that your IC system is more efficient than anyone else's on the forums and keeps temps at or below ambient.
you said you have a 2.2 supercharged, with only 1 intake temp sensor. what is the location of this sensor? are these temps during normal driving or only after a WOT pull?
did you even read what i wrote?
IAT1's directly affect IAT2. no **** there are 2 sensors, that's why i said IAT1, and IAT2
If IAT1's are higher to begin with, then IAT2's will be even higher as a result. if you started off with 30* IAT1's, then it's probably good to expect lower IAT2's than if you were at 90* IAT1's. there's no way that your statement "my IAT's hover around 70" is accurate, as if your IAT1's were over 70 to begin with, I would highly doubt that your IC system is more efficient than anyone else's on the forums and keeps temps at or below ambient.
I don't mean to take away from your thread, please understand i am only trying to help dismiss the huge amount of misinformation on these forums from dumb ***** like nizzle. sorry about that
you said you have a 2.2 supercharged, with only 1 intake temp sensor. what is the location of this sensor? are these temps during normal driving or only after a WOT pull?
IAT1's directly affect IAT2. no **** there are 2 sensors, that's why i said IAT1, and IAT2
If IAT1's are higher to begin with, then IAT2's will be even higher as a result. if you started off with 30* IAT1's, then it's probably good to expect lower IAT2's than if you were at 90* IAT1's. there's no way that your statement "my IAT's hover around 70" is accurate, as if your IAT1's were over 70 to begin with, I would highly doubt that your IC system is more efficient than anyone else's on the forums and keeps temps at or below ambient.
I don't mean to take away from your thread, please understand i am only trying to help dismiss the huge amount of misinformation on these forums from dumb ***** like nizzle. sorry about that
you said you have a 2.2 supercharged, with only 1 intake temp sensor. what is the location of this sensor? are these temps during normal driving or only after a WOT pull?
PS the only dumb **** here is you.
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Joined: 03-12-07
Posts: 1,585
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From: Columbus, Ohio
well temp here today is 49* - 50* so YES my IAT2's are hovering around 70 MAYBE 80. They go up and down as I drive. If i am sitting and not moving, they can get up over 100* but as soon as I put the engine under a load and the ic pump turns on, my IAT's go back down to in the 70's and 80's. Maybe as the weather get warmer they will hover a little higher. I dont know why I have to explain everything like i am talking to 2nd graders.
PS the only dumb **** here is you.
PS the only dumb **** here is you.
the intercooler pump turns on after 10 seconds of engine running (on stock tune) and stays on until you turn off the car. it doesn't turn off if your engine is idling. on a stock tune, the only time it would turn off while the car is running, is if the outside temp dropped below 5*,
on a tune, you can set it to come on as soon as you turn the key, so there is no 10 second delay
once again, you are fighting a losing battle.
this is why you're a dumb ****
the intercooler pump turns on after 10 seconds of engine running (on stock tune) and stays on until you turn off the car. it doesn't turn off if your engine is idling. on a stock tune, the only time it would turn off while the car is running, is if the outside temp dropped below 5*,
on a tune, you can set it to come on as soon as you turn the key, so there is no 10 second delay
once again, you are fighting a losing battle.
the intercooler pump turns on after 10 seconds of engine running (on stock tune) and stays on until you turn off the car. it doesn't turn off if your engine is idling. on a stock tune, the only time it would turn off while the car is running, is if the outside temp dropped below 5*,
on a tune, you can set it to come on as soon as you turn the key, so there is no 10 second delay
once again, you are fighting a losing battle.
this is why you're a dumb ****
the intercooler pump turns on after 10 seconds of engine running (on stock tune) and stays on until you turn off the car. it doesn't turn off if your engine is idling. on a stock tune, the only time it would turn off while the car is running, is if the outside temp dropped below 5*,
on a tune, you can set it to come on as soon as you turn the key, so there is no 10 second delay
once again, you are fighting a losing battle.
the intercooler pump turns on after 10 seconds of engine running (on stock tune) and stays on until you turn off the car. it doesn't turn off if your engine is idling. on a stock tune, the only time it would turn off while the car is running, is if the outside temp dropped below 5*,
on a tune, you can set it to come on as soon as you turn the key, so there is no 10 second delay
once again, you are fighting a losing battle.
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Joined: 03-12-07
Posts: 1,585
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From: Columbus, Ohio
on any aftermarket/custom tune, you can set it to turn on as soon as you key on. no need to test power from the ecu. let's try that instead.
if for any reason it doesn't turn on as described, it's likely you have a dead ic pump
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Joined: 01-05-06
Posts: 2,509
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From: Ft Lauderdale
By the way 2 inner cores little hole out, 2 outer cores big hole out on the laminovas
Last edited by BlilBT; Mar 21, 2011 at 06:40 PM.