2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

Timing Chain Tensioner

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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 02:12 PM
  #26  
scagnetti76's Avatar
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From: Helena Montana
Originally Posted by DSmastery
its the one on the rear of the motor, im just having a hard time getting some type of leverage to get it in
Wish I had that problem.
But you have any luck. It should just thread in, no leverage should be needed.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #27  
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From: Riverside,CA
Originally Posted by scagnetti76
Wish I had that problem.
But you have any luck. It should just thread in, no leverage should be needed.
i got it on my 4th attempt haha i was extremely happy it thread....i didnt even know it thread is just kept ratcheting it and i was like wait.... pulled the socket and it threads

car runs good, it wasnt my ticking problem tho(exhaust leak probably). Glad the new design is installed and off the list
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 02:46 PM
  #28  
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From: Helena Montana
Originally Posted by DSmastery
i got it on my 4th attempt haha i was extremely happy it thread....i didnt even know it thread is just kept ratcheting it and i was like wait.... pulled the socket and it threads

car runs good, it wasnt my ticking problem tho(exhaust leak probably). Glad the new design is installed and off the list
Haha, I did mine because of an exhaust leak too. Figured it was easier, and I was being lazy And figured if it wasnt the tick, it wasnt going to hurt anything.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 02:46 PM
  #29  
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From: YAMOMS
I see that CED has a timing chain tensioner bolt listed. Is that required?
Also, I assume all you guys bought the ACDelco part, iinstead of off-brand Cloyes(?), right?
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 03:10 PM
  #30  
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From: Helena Montana
No need for the bolt, just the updated tensioner. And I got the Delco one.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 03:20 PM
  #31  
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From: Riverside,CA
Originally Posted by scagnetti76
Haha, I did mine because of an exhaust leak too. Figured it was easier, and I was being lazy And figured if it wasnt the tick, it wasnt going to hurt anything.
yea pretty much when its done, it done

i checked the usually spots it leaks and header was good and so was the dp 2 the header

it sounds like it could just be a normal sound the motor makes combined with the cat about to go or idk who cares the timing chain tensioner is installed WOOOO haha
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 03:26 PM
  #32  
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Mine makes a whooshing air sound under boost but I think its just the sound of the air going through that thin flex section (OEM exhaust). IDK or care anymore lol
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #33  
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From: YAMOMS
Originally Posted by scagnetti76
No need for the bolt, just the updated tensioner. And I got the Delco one.
Thank you, sir.
Can anybody tell me the required tools needed take out old/put in new?
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 03:53 PM
  #34  
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From: Helena Montana
Iirc its a 32mm socket, and torque it to spec. Dont remember what that is off the top of my head though.
Edit: Just found it, 55 ft lbs.

Last edited by scagnetti76; Feb 18, 2012 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 05:47 PM
  #35  
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FYI - when rethreading the new tensioner, make sure you press on it with a CONSIDERABLE amount of force while simultaneously turning the bolthead. Otherwise the threads won't catch.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 08:17 PM
  #36  
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I didn't need much force at all to get it threaded in, and it torqued down without a problem
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 10:33 AM
  #37  
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I pulled my new one apart since I read I was supposed to set something. But didn't see anything. So I compressed it and re-installed the retaining clip.

Should it be good to go or is there something I have to do because I took the plunger out???

The way it sits the tensioner tip is spring loaded and takes a fair effort to press in still.

Im beyond paranoid to do this since this is my daily driver.
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 11:11 AM
  #38  
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you're not supposed to take it apart, you just take the old one out and put the new one in and start the car and it sets itself. You guys are making this way too big of a deal
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 11:23 AM
  #39  
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I still hear a rattle under slight acceleration and when accelerating from a stop. I'm guessing its something different?
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 11:25 AM
  #40  
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meh it's a cobalt they rattle everywhere lol
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 12:04 PM
  #41  
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It's coming from the engine bay, but goes away when it hits 2500 rpm.
It my engine blows im buying a subaru so im not too worried about it haha
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 12:11 PM
  #42  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by conerboner
you're not supposed to take it apart, you just take the old one out and put the new one in and start the car and it sets itself. You guys are making this way too big of a deal
^^^^ x 277880089078603
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 09:52 PM
  #43  
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From: Burnaby, BC, Canada
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
^^^^ x 277880089078603

Its no big deal when youve done it lol.

Im more concerned about **** popping apart into my motor, timing skipping and the vast amount of different opinions about how to do this.

Some say just screw it in.....some say lock it then release it once its screwed in. I cant afford a mistake with my daily.
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 09:57 PM
  #44  
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if you have the new lnf timing chain tensioner you just screw it in and start the car. the old style one you do have to set it and tap it
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Old Feb 19, 2012 | 10:04 PM
  #45  
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From: Port Perry
the number of opinions on a large web site are interesting. in this case, listen to cornerboner.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 12:00 AM
  #46  
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In 5 years, this thread will be 10 pages long... and people will still be asking if they can just screw it in and start the car... or do they need to set it.
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