Yea I've never seen my car in the 16's. Even when my 06 2.2 5spd was STOCK it was high 15's. Every automatic i've driven usually has a little button to turn off over drive. See if your traction control has a fuse. Just like ABS just pull it problem goes away. I HATE abs brakes.

 

I really need to get back to the track to see how low in the 15's I can get. I really want to see an all motor cobalt get into the 14s consistently

 

I'm damn close to it. Its all about when you shift. If your car makes max power at 5800 rpm.. dont redline it b4 you shift its pointless. Prior to 2.4 intake manifold I was running 15.4's all night w/ just my Fujita CAI, magnaflow catback. Interested to see what I can do now, I'm waiting on the header to go on then i'm goin back 2 the track.

 

Yeah I ran a 15.97 with just the 2.4 manifold and a 2.5 60'. I'm guess I am 20-30 more horses. If i can get a 2.3 60' I only need another 7 tenths with my new mods and my new tune.

 

yea, vince is the man. he spends probably more time than most working for customers. i know i talked to him a few different times in a day over like 12 hours and he was doing it all to help me out

 

Also that 2.4 manifold makes a lot of power up high so shifting at like 6500 is actually a good thing. I think it will stay in power a lot long down the track.

 

Hoping it does If so I'll have vince up my rev limited 500 rpms. Think thats safe w/ stock internals?

 

reaction time will not lower your et so that doesnt really matter.
there is no way to turn off overdrive.
automatics are quite a bit slower than the 5spd.
there is no way to turn off the overdrive, to take off traction control you just put it in L like he said he did. if you search you will find 2 threads dedicated to this topic.
possible, but 7 tenths is alot. what are your new mods going to be?

 

reaction time doesn't have any effect on your 1/4 mile times...the clock starts when you pass the starting line.

 

I know 7 tenths isn't possible,

I now how intake, 2.4 TB, 2.4 Intake manifold, ZZP Combo, Megan Exhaust, Trifecta Tune with 7k redline, This little bastard screws above 4k RPMs. After a launch it should stay well in the power range. I'm hoping for 15-15.3 I may need mounts, underdrive pulleys, and a driver mod from hell to get into the 14s. Oh and I also do some weight reduction. Dropped 150 lbs out of the car.

 

could you notice anything different with the 2.4TB? didnt they just put out the underdrive pulley like this week? at least thats when i first saw it.

 

Yeah pulley from MRZ did, there has been a few others with them. I suck on launch and need to work on getting that 2.2 or 2.3 60' down.

 

Hell no brother!!! Way too much stress on everything. Hit me up on aim. I'd actually like your opinion on something too...

Side note, my second time to the track I did 10 runs, 8 were 16.5 and that was back with everything stock, a full tank and a 150lb system in the back.
Idiot...
Thank you.

 

There is no button to turn the overdrive off, this is not a truck designed to haul /tow stuff. To turn the "overdrive" off, put it in "I" but the traction control will still be on. You must put it in L to disable the traction control. If you wait until it redlines before you shift from L to I, you have potential of bouncing off the limiter, which will slow you down and also is not good for the engine.

 

update real quick about Vince, his hptuners pda thing can now log files so he said its like being at a dyno w/o paying for a dyno.
he modded the tune just a tad plus with the dyno, you can send him the log, he can make changes and send it back for a better tune.

so since i dont have 2.4 intake mani, would it be better to shift from 2-3 at like 5k rpms? if so, it would drop my third gear into like 3k rpms i think. 3k is a good rpm for my intake to pull in a good amount of air.

i also have a leak in my catback. where the dp connects to the catback, the flanges there are uneven and the air comes out the flange. now i dont know if that reduces power cause of backpressure not correct but i dont want to get that fixed til i get a bigger dp. either ss dp or zzp dp with high flow cat.

any more options for an auto?

thanks

 

Bottom line if you have an automatic DONT SHIFT. If you want to be shifting you should have bought a manual. If you shift an automatic ESPECIALLY in racing conditions you WILL f up your tranny .. BOTTOM LINE. IF getting a 16.3 compared to a 16.5 is worth your 2-3 thousand dollar tranny. BY All MEANS go ahead.

Truthfully your not saving much time shifting it. The only thing thats going to help an automatic in that regard is either a good tune or preferably a shift kit.

 

Our usable powerband is between 3500-6500 just let the auto do it's course when your foot is to the floor. it will shift at redline to put your next gear as close to peak power as possible.

It causes turbulance but we dont make enough HP for it to matter. As long as it doesnt leak into your car and you passout and die you are ok.

B&M Shift plus.
Stop spreading stupidity, in L your line pressure is raised creating firmer shifts, when upshifting you are just allowing the other gears to come into play. Downshifting a trans beond it's limits(going to L above 70mph or if we had a first shifting into it above 30-35mph) will **** it up but upshifting wont do anything but annoy your computer. I shift mine every day because it makes driving a more interesting experience, I havent fucked anything up and I have been doing it since I was 14 with quite a few different cars. Have you personally messed up a trans doing it? If not STFU because you have no reason to talk.

 

i got the bm shift plus but i took it off after i got the trifecta tune cause it does the same thing.

it doesnt hurt to manual shift the auto cause its all done electronically. its not like the old cars will it IS bad to shift from lower gears to upper again in auto.