tune, trifecta cant beat the gains for the money!!!!!!!!!!!

 

nitrous is not risky power if you only run a shot that is safe, and its just as save as turbo or supercharger if the install is done right. i'd say 75 shot is pushing it, 50 shot is more safe. once i get my kit i'll run a 35-50 shot.

and they are right on the catless, the 2.2 is very restrictive from header to tip. anything in there will release alot more hp then you would think. and just so you guys know backpressure is a myth and is actually only need on like 2 cycle motors. 2.5" exhuast is good for up to 300 hp, and alot of these guys running aorund with the 3" exhaust are not pushing enough power to really constitute needing the larger output. but to each their own and how you want the sound, like i said backpressure is a myth. if you don't believe me google is bakcpressure really needed there are tons of articles on the subject.

 

I agree. just run a 50 shot and only spray at safe RPMs. It's the best price point and won't risk blowing up the motor.

 

YEP!

watch some youtube videos of cobalts on nitrous as far as running higher than a 50 shot, cause most of them that have went POW were due to to much nitrous like 75+ shot. i'd say 50 is def safe and if you have a nitrous tune 75 would probably be okay.

as far as running at a safe rpm the best install is on a WOT throttle. this is generally what comes with the zex kit, but other kits the switch can be bought. like i said so long as the install and setup is good nitrous is no diff than any form of forced induction.

 

Andrew make sure you go with a cat, we have to have them on our cars here in nova scotia.

 

read a book.

knowledge is power.

 

common ricer answer...you can get alot of power out of the 2.2. if i were you i would build it then boost it...dont rice out your car...its not a honda

 

could always go with a test pipe after inspection time unless they do visual spot checks throughout the year. they also make test pipes that look like converters for this as well...

but if i lived in a state or province that had inspection i'd stay with a cat or a highflow one at that.

 

yea they are going to start more road side bullshit here

 

did you even read his post? He said "ur not going to end up getting a ton of power out of this car unless u do a turbo or supercharger set up"
i would say his statement is completely correct. As for the "even then...ehhh" part, thats also accurate, seeing as how were limited by our factory internals, and the OP is already trying to avoid spending the couple grand on an FI package..i doubt he;s willing to spend another few grand on an engine build.

 

Hes right you can make a fast engine out of cam work but your just better off buying the garrett turbo kits if money is the issue. I found cam work to be very expensive

 

yeah i agree ^ you might be thinking about how your only spending a lil bit at a time for a part but when its comes down to the end of it your gonna come out ahead on the turbo build, exhaust 500-700(good exhaust magnaflow,gmmp) intake which you have prob ran 250-300,Pulley 175,Header 200-300, 2.4 Manifold(I bought from ced which was like 290 i think idk) lets say you do cams too thats like 450, as you can see your spending a lil amount at a time but your ending up with prob 2100-2300 parts mininum, (iam sorry if the math is wrong i have class in 5 minutes lol) i didnt even include downpipe,tune,throttle body if needed. I pray you can install these yourself, because iam not mechanically incline and the shop charged me 200 just to switch the manifolds. Enjoy your warranty now at least for a lil bit and go all out on a turbo ), sorry if i bored anybody else

 

Yea everyone is right Andrew, just go out buy the cheaper hahn or garret turbo kit that includes the intercooler, and do it that way.

or you can deal with justin, hes thinking about selling the intake manifold, and blower from his s/c

 

PM 409cobalt07. has a brand new full nitrous kit for sale for dirt cheap

 

meh, im not looking for the cheapest power hahaha
built not bought to the extreme :P

 

whats better for CAI injen or AEM or is there no dif

 

i think people are instantly assuming that the ammount of power you can get from n/a isn't alot, 5-10 hp is significant enough to feel. sure its not like getting 50 hp from a tune like the t/c guys are getting but for a naturally asperated car this is about right and completely normal, you will pull alot more power out of this car just by replacing the full exhaust header,dp,highflow cat or catless, and a catback. like i said before the ehxuast and intake on the 2.2 is ridiculously restricted. you'll notice a difference just from intake and exhaust.

i can't remember the guys name but he has a yellow cobalt 2.2 and he is on this forum he has gotten his balt to dyno 168hp i believe, from a base of 117, he has every bolt on and cams. thats a significant difference to me. and block hp is probably somewhere int he range of 205 to the block considering we have around 22% drivetrain loss in the 2.2 so doing mods like engine torque damper solid race motor mounts and poly trans mounts would help decrease that drivetrain loss and help put more power to the ground so he may even have more power if he has those type of mods.

there is not going to be a huge difference between the two, but the injen is a intake system which you can do short ram or cold air, depending on the area you live in, short ram during the rainy months may be the way to go, for me all year around i run cold air intake we don't get a ton of rain here in tn so no worries about sucking up water or anything.

injen also offerens a hydroshield if you wanted to run cold air all year around and aem i believe ofference what is called a bypass valve that would prevent water from being sucked up as well. just other things to keep in mind.

your still paying for it one way or the other, either up front of over time, money is still being used to purchase the items even if your building it, and just because you buy a car with fi doesn't mean you still can't build it, when you buy an ss your not buying a built car. people need to realize while they do build it somewhat it is not complete specially when you start upping the boost... from my old lowrider days a project is never complete there is always something more you can do.

 

yeah that must be nice here in oh we get all kinds of rain/snow/sleet anything to do with cold moisture we get lol i have an AEM CAI and it works very well i just need to buy a new filter for it also i about your previous message, isnt our drivetrain loss a bit less than 22% i dont know a whole lot about drivetrain but it seems like a 22% loss would be something you see in a rear wheel drive vehicle bc of the driveshaft and all, just curious

 

ill have some more numbers for whp for a FULLY bolted 2.2 with cams in less then two weeks

 

If you want more power, and dont want to void your warrenty buy a bike.

 

well do the math goto k&n website, look at the stock dyno sheet on the 2.2 before the intake that will give you WHP and it says 117 at k&n and at injen website too i believe, then take the factory rated hp... which is 150

then do. 150*.78 = 117 take `100-78 = 22% drivetrain loss, now most vehicles vary from their manufacture specs but in general thats about right. only way to know definately how much drivetrain loss would be to have someone block dyno your vehicle then wheel dyno it. being its almost impossible to find someone that would do a block dyno we can only speculate the drivetrain loss using manufacture number and a baseline stock dyno.

 

i was thinking about that chris when justin sells his ill prolly take it if the time and price is right but just let him know for me would ya!!!!!!

 

that seems like a LOT of drivetrain loss. I think they dyno'd on a bad day or something, cause usually i see 120-130whp for mustang dynos and 130-135whp for dynojets. 22% is what i would expect from a RWD automatic car