2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

Who has the most powerful 2.2 n/a?

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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 05:39 PM
  #101  
NWAE Cobalt's Avatar
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ya, something is DEF wrong with your setup
and saying youll run less on pump gas then e85...ya...92 octane is way better for power then e85
second...pushing 200 hp...WAY easy with a built engine...im running 155 with only header back exhaust, intake, and tune....
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 05:41 PM
  #102  
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From: MP, PA (S of Pittsburgh)
Originally Posted by NWAE Cobalt
ya, something is DEF wrong with your setup
and saying youll run less on pump gas then e85...ya...92 octane is way better for power then e85
second...pushing 200 hp...WAY easy with a built engine...im running 155 with only header back exhaust, intake, and tune....
lol 155 kinda sucks. If our cars had more power to begin with it would of been deff. nicer. Maybe like 145whp instead of like 120-125whp
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 05:44 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by HunterKiller89
i would still argue that 1 hour at 300hp will not break a block as easily as 1400hp for 15 seconds.

thats like saying cruising on the highway at 25hp for an hour is more stressful to an engine than flooring it with 300hp in a 1/4 mile.

it probably wears the internals out more, but the block should be fine under those conditions.

Anyway, there is an approx. 240whp (i think) cavalier 2.2 NA, and he's only running 11:1 CR, so you should see higher than him i would imagine. a stock 2.2 from a S2000 is making about 240bhp after all. While i realise its a completely different engine, and is hard to compare two different engines, you have a much more agressive build than the stock S2000 does.. Wilder cams, higher CR, same displacement, and your head is ported, so the S2k shouldnt flow a whole lot more.

you'd really have to dig up the info on that cavalier tho...he was on the jbody forums, and i think he was on the ecotecforum as well.
hahaha its got VTEC thats why
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 05:45 PM
  #104  
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From: Puyallup, WA
what did you mean by 155 kinda sucks??? like in general???
155 is good considering lol, if you figure a conservative of 20% drive train loss...then we start with about 124..most figure it at 23% which would be stock at 119 whp..so your right
its not great but i think its good for the little i have done.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 05:48 PM
  #105  
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From: MP, PA (S of Pittsburgh)
Originally Posted by NWAE Cobalt
what did you mean by 155 kinda sucks??? like in general???
155 is good considering lol, if you figure a conservative of 20% drive train loss...then we start with about 124..most figure it at 23% which would be stock at 119 whp..so your right
its not great but i think its good for the little i have done.
Yeah don't get me wrong like that, but it sucks how are cars are slugs stock. If they came from the factory with around 140whp i'd be real happy. I might of be pushing like 185 if they came stock with 140whp
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 08:23 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by alanoo
I think many of you here are a bit optimistic at what can be done N/A without spending high amounts of money.
dudes right

Originally Posted by NWAE Cobalt
pushing 200 hp...WAY easy with a built engine...im running 155 with only header back exhaust, intake, and tune....
even with 12:1 compresion and aggressive cams you'll be lucky to hit 200 wheel. and if you do you'll have no bottem end, the car will be **** in traffic. a honda can do it because it has the "second" cam.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 08:28 PM
  #107  
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just put full bolt-ons on and be happy with it theres only so much u can do. or go turbo.
or get a car with more potential
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 08:32 PM
  #108  
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whatd fred from smg put down BEFORE he went turbo?
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 10:00 PM
  #109  
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From: Irwin, Pa (S of Pittsburgh)
Originally Posted by Preston
yaeh i did..but i ran a shitty time...couldn't get a good launch for the life of me


ran a 15 flat @ 96
nice man, not bad. i ran a 15.2 w/o a/c n with intake mod (still had 110lb gf in car) so hopefully all motor ill hit 13s

Originally Posted by alanoo
I think many of you here are a bit optimistic at what can be done N/A without spending high amounts of money.

In europe, the BTCC cars are pushing 300hp (crank HP) and the engine needs to be rebuilt every 10.000km. now the good part : These 300hp are with their legal limitations : 11:1 CR, 11mm valve lift, 2.0l and 8000 rpm limiter. But the amount of engineering put in this engine is simply unmatchable by any DIY or any mainstream tuner, it has hundreds of hours on tweaking acoustics/balistics and an extremely narrow powerband. It has such huge internal pressures that the blocks cracks very often (and that's with solid uprated sleeves)
The N/A Roush is pushing 340hp (crank again) on methanol and with a redline that means it will certainly have to be rebuilt even more often. and that 340hp are with silly fuel a silly CR and a big bore block.

My 2.2, has 12.4:1 CR, billet cams similar to Comp Stage 3, a good head port with SiValves and a forged bottom end + overbored pistons all with a 2.4 manifold and ported 2.4 TB running a standalone ECU, mech chain tensionner, lowered oil pressure, and I am almost certain it won't pass the 200whp mark (not on pump fuel at least)

without any power adder, you do not only have to put a lot of money to make a N/A work, but a lot of engineering and calculations, it is not as simple as simply choosing and fitting the "good" parts and bolt-ons
Originally Posted by HunterKiller89
you either have a shitty tune, or something else is up. what you have built there should be like 250whp...maybe more...mostly due to that compression ratio and the cams. what are you redlining at?/revving to?

and im not sure what blocks you were talking about, but ecotec blocks are good past 1400hp as long as they are re-sleeved with stronger sleeves, so idk where this "blocks cracking at 300hp" stuff comes from. you ARE talking about ecotecs, right?
Originally Posted by alanoo
Yeah yeah, I know what the GM build book says, but again, these are NOT n/a applications

I'm revving to 8000 rpm, but will map for a bit more (8200 I guess).

Still waiting for my final 4/2/1 exhaust manifold which is redone for the 3rd time, so the map is not final (and I have to buy a set of the hardened oil gears you have in the US too, as my stupid oil pressure relief valve was stuck with dozens of small particles of the OE pump gears).

I wish you could find me a dyno print of a 250whp N/A without any power adder and a similar setup as mine...
But that will put this in the same league as the Roush N/A, as it is running 325 hp on E85, so something around 310 hp max on pump fuel, and that is with ITB's and 2.34l displacement

Oh just to add a key thing,

remember there is a huge difference in the racing modes you have in US, and the Europe ones.

These 300 bhp BTCC engine are road circuit racing for ~ 3*40 min sessions per weekend + 30 min qualif session, so it is quite a bit different than some 15 sec drag runs
Originally Posted by HunterKiller89
i would still argue that 1 hour at 300hp will not break a block as easily as 1400hp for 15 seconds.

thats like saying cruising on the highway at 25hp for an hour is more stressful to an engine than flooring it with 300hp in a 1/4 mile.

it probably wears the internals out more, but the block should be fine under those conditions.

Anyway, there is an approx. 240whp (i think) cavalier 2.2 NA, and he's only running 11:1 CR, so you should see higher than him i would imagine. a stock 2.2 from a S2000 is making about 240bhp after all. While i realise its a completely different engine, and is hard to compare two different engines, you have a much more agressive build than the stock S2000 does.. Wilder cams, higher CR, same displacement, and your head is ported, so the S2k shouldnt flow a whole lot more.

you'd really have to dig up the info on that cavalier tho...he was on the jbody forums, and i think he was on the ecotecforum as well.
Originally Posted by NWAE Cobalt
ya, something is DEF wrong with your setup
and saying youll run less on pump gas then e85...ya...92 octane is way better for power then e85
second...pushing 200 hp...WAY easy with a built engine...im running 155 with only header back exhaust, intake, and tune....
Originally Posted by MP Cobalt
Yeah don't get me wrong like that, but it sucks how are cars are slugs stock. If they came from the factory with around 140whp i'd be real happy. I might of be pushing like 185 if they came stock with 140whp
Originally Posted by BLKLS
dudes right



even with 12:1 compresion and aggressive cams you'll be lucky to hit 200 wheel. and if you do you'll have no bottem end, the car will be **** in traffic. a honda can do it because it has the "second" cam.
Originally Posted by 07MetallicSC
whatd fred from smg put down BEFORE he went turbo?

alright, ill just say this... you guys with claiming that 200whp n/a is hard or things will **** up easily are stupid, learn what youre doing n talking about. i have a 2.2 ecotec right now with just forged crank, rods, pistons n a valvetrain build with cams n port n poslish (not max port n polish) n i see over 200 whp so i guess you guys that are cracking sleeves n **** like that along with not believing that it is possible (even tho allecotec sponsers an almost 300whp n/a ecotec) can just get outta here. 25 posts? leave now before you get flamed out you n00b
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 10:42 PM
  #110  
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just curious what numbers are you seeing to the wheel?
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 10:43 PM
  #111  
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My Mazda is a 2.2L.

But its boosted.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 11:06 PM
  #112  
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From: Puyallup, WA
Originally Posted by BLKLS
dudes right



even with 12:1 compresion and aggressive cams you'll be lucky to hit 200 wheel. and if you do you'll have no bottem end, the car will be **** in traffic. a honda can do it because it has the "second" cam.
your high...it wont be hard at all, with cams, intake mani, reworked exhaust, tb, and a retune im sure i could hit over 200whp
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 02:30 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by NWAE Cobalt
what did you mean by 155 kinda sucks??? like in general???
155 is good considering lol, if you figure a conservative of 20% drive train loss...then we start with about 124..most figure it at 23% which would be stock at 119 whp..so your right
its not great but i think its good for the little i have done.
23% drive train loss is about 110whp fyi.... 20% is 115whp, 15% is 123whp. I would estimate our drivetrain losses around 18%
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 02:44 AM
  #114  
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From: Puyallup, WA
Originally Posted by HunterKiller89
23% drive train loss is about 110whp fyi.... 20% is 115whp, 15% is 123whp. I would estimate our drivetrain losses around 18%
i stand corrected
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 02:54 AM
  #115  
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showing off you calculator button pushing skills i c
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 06:07 AM
  #116  
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From: Paris
Originally Posted by o3nisoaso3
alright, ill just say this... you guys with claiming that 200whp n/a is hard or things will **** up easily are stupid, learn what youre doing n talking about. i have a 2.2 ecotec right now with just forged crank, rods, pistons n a valvetrain build with cams n port n poslish (not max port n polish) n i see over 200 whp so i guess you guys that are cracking sleeves n **** like that along with not believing that it is possible (even tho allecotec sponsers an almost 300whp n/a ecotec) can just get outta here. 25 posts? leave now before you get flamed out you n00b


Show us your dyno print...
oh and with a "before mods" one, just to have an idea of the dyno accuracy

Oh and thanks for the noob part, am I not speaking to someone who blown 2 engines ?

Well, waiting for your dyno and I'll shut up

Originally Posted by NWAE Cobalt
ya, something is DEF wrong with your setup
and saying youll run less on pump gas then e85...ya...92 octane is way better for power then e85
second...pushing 200 hp...WAY easy with a built engine...im running 155 with only header back exhaust, intake, and tune....

I never talked about 200 hp, but 200 Whp

Last edited by alanoo; Nov 19, 2008 at 06:07 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 12:12 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by alanoo
Show us your dyno print...
oh and with a "before mods" one, just to have an idea of the dyno accuracy

Oh and thanks for the noob part, am I not speaking to someone who blown 2 engines ?

Well, waiting for your dyno and I'll shut up




I never talked about 200 hp, but 200 Whp
How about shut up until then as well. I don't want to look at days of people whining. Wait then bitch...god its better that way.
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 12:27 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by StrongIslandBalter
so yeah whos pushing the most ponies with out sc,tc,nos? (flamers arent welcomed)
my guess would be this guy:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-2l-l61-performance-tech-45/i-need-more-posts-here-my-n-build-143206/
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 12:47 PM
  #119  
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lol i looked at this when i got off this post i cant wait to see the numbers p
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 06:06 PM
  #120  
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From: Irwin, Pa (S of Pittsburgh)
Originally Posted by StrongIslandBalter
just curious what numbers are you seeing to the wheel?
Originally Posted by alanoo
Show us your dyno print...
oh and with a "before mods" one, just to have an idea of the dyno accuracy

Oh and thanks for the noob part, am I not speaking to someone who blown 2 engines ?

Well, waiting for your dyno and I'll shut up




I never talked about 200 hp, but 200 Whp
i maxed out my stock injectors at 6K rpms which they support around 200hp (at crank) no dyno sheets cuz i didnt get there. and as far as the motor blowing twice, it was all because the timing was out and i had a GM tech do it the first time it fucked up then a mechanic that works on top end cars the second so not my fault at all.

Originally Posted by roadrage06
i have everything done that he does plus an aluminum flywheel and higher compression
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 06:52 PM
  #121  
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alanoo....i gotta ask...why did you say in this thread you have 12.4:1 CR, when your build threat states you have 10:1 CR with a .020" overbore?
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 07:04 PM
  #122  
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From: Irwin, Pa (S of Pittsburgh)
Originally Posted by HunterKiller89
alanoo....i gotta ask...why did you say in this thread you have 12.4:1 CR, when your build threat states you have 10:1 CR with a .020" overbore?
yea id like to see that. and for your post earlier bout 8200 rpms n road racing against drag racing... its all in the tune, you can tune a car richer to keep the egt lower and not over heat the motor n have a lil less power but drag racing is full ***** to the wall advanced timing and as much as you can get for at most 15 seconds (13 or less with built cars) and also the stock pcm in our cars only have a map to go to 81XX rpms, i think maybe 8190.... So you would need a stand alone then sir, if you go to 8200 or higher
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 03:36 AM
  #123  
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From: Paris
HunterKiller89, the answer is in my thread
Head skimmed + less dished SIValves + thinner HG

o3nisoaso3, answer in my thread too, running a standalone
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