Well, last night wasn't too bad... lol. Spent lots of time talking with Kyle on his problem with the supercharger pulley hitting the radiator support. He scared me with this, lol, so I test fitted mine and I can wrap my whole hand around it. I have maybe 3 inches between the pulley and rad support. I'll take pics if I can.

I installed the new washer bottle. I then moved the wiring from left to right. I cut the washer pump connector near the rad support and ran new wiring and put it into some of the corrugated tubing and ran it along the top of the radiator support where there other tubing is. I will take pics of this, but it looks totally factory. Got the wife to hit the button real quick and the pump pumps, so I'm good.

I was test fitting my new LSJ air intake and I snapped one of the tabs off. I'm pissed! This thing looked brand new. Oh well, I plan on putting a cold air intake on it, so that will get rid of the issue. It will still work and noone will see it, but it bothers me. I'm going to try some epoxy on it today just to see if I can put the tab back.

I then started to try and move the MAF connector and start to disassemble the harness in order to do so. I spent about 30 minutes and then got snagged. My MAF wires are tangled in with the other wires and I cannot move it any further. My friend is coming later this afternoon (GM tech) and knows how to re-pin, so he'll take the pins out and wires out and we'll continue to do so. On mine, it is a big job to tear the harness apart, but I'll do it, lol.

Today I'll put my powdercoated valve cover on. I'll grind down my block where the old engine lift bracket is to accept the LSJ tensioner. I'll probably rewire my throttle body and try to install the air intake again. Depending on how much work gets done today, I may fire her up in the next couple of days.

 

Yeah, my MAF wires were sort of tangled with the others, but it was very easy to still get them out...

 

^^ same as MP81. Was a hassle, but they eventually came untangled

 

yeah untagling them sucks, i only did as much as i needed to...**** thats hit, spent a good 10mins on that

 

Well, it is really hard to explain, but maybe I can take a picture. Since there are what, 5 or 6 wires... I got to a certain point and 3 of the wires are in one spot and 2 of the other wires are in another in the harness. I can maybe move one of the connectors that are in the way, but then it is just in the way of the othe 2 or 3.

100% on my setup I'll either have to cut the wires and or take out the pins and untangle and move on.

Today was not a bad day at all. I installed the new valve cover, new valve cover gasket, coil packs, spark plugs, etc.

I mounted the ZZP H/E.

On my issue where the front engine lift bracket bosses were coming into contact with the tensioner, I decided to get out my angle grinder with the rough cleaning disks that you would use to clean up a manifold surface or something. Since I have a small compressor it was easy to fire it up and grind it down a little bit. It is done very evenly and doesn't appear that it was ever messed with... but there were small shavings all of the place, but I used the air chuck to blow it all out of the way and all of the important stuff was covered with a towel.

I then mounted the tensioner and alternator. I then did about 1/2 the plumbing for the H/E. I am using the stock LSJ supercharger cooler reservoir, but I was going to use my second stock reservoir that I purchased in addition for extra cooling. My additional stock reservoir doesn't mount properly on the passenger side, so I must have to purchase a cobalt ss reservoir?

Casey can you help me out with that?

I then mounted the supercharger, but didn't torque it yet in case I have to remove it. I need to get pictures of some of this stuff.

I now need to rewire the TB, get the MAF sensor wiring fixed, mount the stock air intake, add the hose to my boost gauge, add the wideband wire from the sensor to my gauge.. and do the other half the H/E routing and maybe add the second reservoir.

Time is short tomorrow so I may just do the belt and some other small things.

With the cool powdercoated supercharger and valve cover on there my rather new looking aluminum TB looks like ****. I think I will remove it tomorrow and paint it.

I believe I only have a few more hours on it and then it will be ready for ignition.

 

the ls, ss, ss/sc, ss/tc use the same engine resevoir, the option B tank(goes on passenger side) should be from a ion redline, if its a cobalt(any model) it wont mount right, interview at ruins had to ziptie his in place...no big deal, just it wont sit in there right...thats normal if your using a cobalt tank as your option b, hope that helps

 

correct. I made a home depot ghetto mounting bracket for it for like $15, but since you're trying to appear stock looking, I would recommend a opt B mounting bracket from OTTP or ZZP (I think the ZZP one is cheaper?)

 

Well I found out last night, it is not so true.

It sparked my curiousity. As I was preparing for my supercharger build I was grabbing engine bay photos everywhere on the forum here as I was in threads. There is someone here with a GM looking reservoir mounted on one of the old air intake studs.

So last night I decided to check it out again after I got off the forum. The same reservoir that I got will work with some modification. It actually DOES mount on the stud... but the second mounting tab (towards the front of the car) is pushing up against the washer bottle.

Today, I am going to carefully cut that mounting tab off and it will 100% mount on the air intake stud. I'll take some pics... before and after.

Also, I did look it up and the SS has a different coolant reservoir. I think the only difference is one has a sensor and one doesn't, but they appear to look physically the same in the diagrams I have.

Our reservoirs have a dummy sensor hole in them, so it is probably the same reservoir with the dummy plug punched out.

 

Ok, so my modification on the tank was successful.

Here is the stock tank. As you can see the mounting tab is hitting on the new LSJ washer reservoir.







After I neatly removed the mounting tab all seems to be well. For better mounting, it seems like I'll need a spacer under the nut on the stud since I cann't screw it down all the way or the tank won't sit right.









I installed the LSJ air intake today and since the TB was ugly (stock aluminum) I decided to paint it while I was cleaning up the garage. I didn't do much else today. Went to mom's with the kids and used the pool.

 

That looks great, Gene. You just going to 90 the outlet?

I bought some copper plumbing fittings today to use as the outlets, but despite being 3/4", they're way too big...I think I'll take them back and get some PVC fittings...those should work good.

I like what stenguyen1 used, though - I want those...

 

Actually the outlet on the bottom looks like it will just let me put hose on it and come out and then maybe run along the radiator support. I don't know about the routing of those hoses yet, lol. If I don't like the way everything looks, I'll tear it out.

Believe it or not, I just finished working so I obviously didn't get any work done on my car today

 

Hey Gene kind of curious what your going to do about pulleys. Seeing how the s/c, tensioner, and idle pulleys are 6 rib and the crank,a/c,alt. are 5 rib. I have the feeling your not going to want to cut a rib off a belt to get it to work. I picked up crank, a/c, and alt in 6 rib but haven't installed yet. So if you go this route and get it done before me let me know how it goes and i'll do the same.

 

You mean 5 and 4 ribs, right?

The SS/SC uses 5 ribs, and the NA cars run 4.

 

well I have always heard it referred to as 5 and 6 rib.

 

Just topped 20k with 1 rib cut off the stock lsj belt, no problems. I've searched pretty extensively for a "proper" belt, but there is nothing available. And 2.4/2.2 use 5 rib, lsj is 6 rib.

 

That's what I thought.

 

Oh, I was talking the small ones...I guess whatever works...

 

Yep, no big deal. If anyone ever wants to do their own searching for a proper belt for this swap, there are 5 digits of a belts part number that will give details of the belt. Napa shows the numbers 5K400 for the 2.4. The 5 is the amount of ribs, and 400 is 40.0 inches. Different manus have the numbers oriented different it seems, but you can usually figure it out pretty simple.

 

Update:

Last evening I finished up plumbing the heat exchanger.

My friend showed me how to take apart the MAF connector and I was able to untangle the wires and move the MAF connector to its new home. I put some corrugated tubing around it and put the connector back together and it is plugged in.

I then had to put the engine wiring harness back together from taking it apart to get the MAF wires out of it. After about 30 more minutes, everything was back to normal looking.

My friend also suggested that I take the old brake booster hose and cut the ends off to use for the valve cover to new air intake breather. It was a brilliant idea and the hose looks all formed and looks like it was developed that way.

I installed the stage 2 belt using the pulley boys tension relief tool. I must say that I couldn't turn the tensioner down (compress) it any further and we couldn't quite get the belt on. It was half on and half off the tensioner pulley.

I put a bolt in the end of the supercharger pulley (stage 2 hub) and cranked the engine manually with a wrench and the belt slipped on. The belt also needed to be aligned with the rear of the pulleys (1 rib missing) so I got a body shop pry tool (plastic) and cranked the engine over with the wrench again and moved the belt backwards. All is well.

I added real hose clamps (worm type) to the LSJ upper radiator hose and installed it.

I put on the new evap hose from TB to purge solenoid.

I went to install the TB and the air intake hose from the TB to the one that sticks up out of the fender. This was quite a problem for me. Since I have active handling, I have an electronic brake control module and this big connector rests right below the TB. For the life of me I could not get the air intake hose on.

After about 30 minutes of messing with it I decided to remove the TB, install the air intake hose and clamp it on the TB and then try to install the TB to the supercharger again. I was able to get it carefully installed.

The top of the connector has a lever lock type assembly (vertical connector) and the top of the connector was sticking up too high. I may be able to grind it down, but the module and/or the harness can be really expensive if I ruin it, so I am sticking with the way it is for now.

Tonight I had some company so I couldn't work on my car.

What is left?

Install new 8 pin TB connector.
Run boost hose from gauge to intake manifold
Run wideband sensor wire from back of gauge to wideband sensor.
Gauges are already wired
Fill engine and heat exchanger circuit with coolant.
Install tune.
Fire up car.

I haven't taken any engine bay pics as I'm saving my goodies until it is finished

As I wrote up just now, I stuck with cutting one rib off. It doesn't look weird or anything. I'm a pretty picky guy, but not that picky.

 

I honestly don't see the point - it's a lot more effort to swap pulleys than to cut a rib off the belt, and it doesn't even look bad...

 

cuting a rib off makes for 1/6th less friction, which means more belt slip than without it. However, its really not a big deal, since if you get belt slip you can just get a stg 2 belt, over sized tensioner, over sized idler, or adjustable tensioner, or any other aftermarket option out there for us.

 

i'm going to go with the pulley swap route. Actually i'm just swapping out the a/c and alternator the only pulley I'm changing is the crank pulley. It might be more work but that's fine cause I don't know maybe it's just me but cutting a rib off just has to weaken the belt in some way. I don't want to be on a trip somewhere and my belt rips in half or something and the cause being due to a rib being cut off.

 

I don't think that's gonna happen, but okay.

 

Understandable. I picked up a spare stk lsj belt for $10 on here and keep it in my trunk in case this ever happens.

 

So last night I wired up the TB. I finished the sensor wire from the wideband to the actual wideband sensor. When I went to install the boost gauge boost line, the hose was not long enough. Made fast trip to Home Depot before it closed and got the smallest line they had, which was a tad too large. Decided to call it a night.

Today I got some vacuum/washer hose from work and tested it out tonight and it is a tad too small. Off to the auto parts store again tomorrow I guess.

I have been working all night and just finished so not working on the car tonight. With the holiday tomorrow and Hershey Park (amusement park) Sunday, I may not get to work on it until Monday or Tuesday.

All I need to do is load the tune and install the boost gauge hose and then it is ready to start, lol.