Do they seem like a normal size bolt to you? I have no problem ordering them as well, I just want to know if, possibly, I can just buy bolts of the same dimension.

 

love the pics, subscribed for more

 

love the pics, subscribed for more

love the pics....subscribed

 

only bolts i ended up needing to order was the 3 130mm long alternator bolts, the rest i got from autozone, i took in the manifold, the lower bracket, the pump bracket, and all threads are m8x1.25, the lower manifold bracket to manifold itself is a bigger bolt, but if your there, u can size them up as you go, and get the right lenght you know, which common sense would say get a bolt with 1" coming out towards what would be the engine

 

They are definitely a normal sized bolt.. just a little long. I'll pull them out today and see what I can do.

Thanks. Will do.

Casey... can we talk Interceptor?

I got my Interceptor like a week ago and it was the wrong one ( I ordered the right one, was sent the wrong one) and I was browsing around and reading some things.

It appears I can run that from my OBDII port. But I saw some people talking elsewhere, here on the board, that they also hooked it into the lights so that it dimmed at night?

So let me make this a little more complex. I also have a Glow Shift boost gauge and an AEM wideband that will need power as well... and possibly dim at night.

How do you suggest I go about all of this?

 

i spossibly got a full supercharger kit for sale with stage 2 pulley and maybe header and catless downpipe for anyone wanting to go SC

 

like I said, they do "work"...I just feel better off running a plug that is identical to stock, only a step colder. NGK LTR6IX-11 is a good choice, the only downside is they are iridium instead of copper which = $$$

btw, I'll have to find out what bolt sizes these are. I'm only gonna order them from GM if absolutely necessary. The last time I ordered 4 little bolts from a dealership it ran me like $20 bucks

 

the TB to supercharger bolts should be same as your stockers... I used my stock bolts same thread and long enough... I am also running an lsj TB

the bolts to intake manifold and it's lower support brackets are 8mm

I'm not positive on the supercharger to intake manifold tho... if someone doesn't answer before I get a chance to look I will...

 

This is such a good thread. So helpful. and Hunterkiller has answered a bunch of questions for me to. As for your gauge dimming question, what series of glowshift did you get. I been doing research on gauges and I know the elite series from glowshift has a wire that you can hook up to your lights to dim the gauge. If you u have that series of gauge maybe you can use that wire to dim all your gauges.

Also I noticed you have been trying to find a solution to plug the hole on the supercharger where a map sensor goes. I have an install manual that came with a supercharger kit they made for the cavalier and sunfire and this is what they used to plug the hole. metal expansion plug (part number
12593906). Problem here is that part number is not found on gm parts direct. So maybe you can find something out on it since you are a gm dealer. This would help us that will need to plug that hole up. And it should work since it's from gm.

 

well, the interceptors for our cars will not need a separate power line, as they draw their power directly from the OBDII port, so there is no way to attach them to the power line that dims when you dim the dash lights.

As for the other two gauges, I have mine tapped into the ignition wire. The only thing I would worry about when it comes to the dimming line is the possibility that dimming it reduces voltage to the gauge, and being that the wideband interprets the AFR based on the voltage its receiving, it may skew the displayed AFR. I'm not positive about this though, so it might work just fine. It's just something to look out for if you do end up going this route.

As for the glow shift, I'm assuming its mechanical, in which case the voltage recieved will only affect the brightness of the gauge, just like you want, so that one would work fine for sure.

 

Hmm... thanks about the wire on the glowshift. I know that it has some wires as it lights up red at night and can change into 7 colors, etc. Here is a link. I got this one because it had a white faced gauge like my G5's gauges and it has the ability to light up red at night like my G5 as well.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/white...uum-gauge.aspx

I checked into the part number several weeks ago on the plug for the Cavalier supercharger kit and it isn't available separately.

My friend is going to come over and we're going to tap it and then put in a hex socket plug and call it a day. We just haven't done that yet.

Casey, I did read in the interceptor manual and when I had the wrong one here, that you can set it up to directly power it yourself. I may end up doing that and just putting them all to the ignition wire then at once.

I assume there is no real big deal about it not dimming at night? I wouldn't want my wideband to not be accurate because of how it is hooked up.

As far as powering my gauges, I guess I can have just one wire running to the ignition wire and splice the three into the one going to the ignition wire?

 

yea, that would be fine. Make sure the wire is a slightly thicker gauge if you do it that way, but the gauges dont require a lot of current, so small gauge wire would still work fine.

As for reading about the separate powering for the interceptors, that is how the ss/sc interceptors must be powered, as they cannot pull power from the OBDII port. the 2.2 Interceptor however does pull power. Im not sure what hooking up the additional powerline will do.

For the dimming, well...I like mine being full bright all the time...works great for me. I'll grab a picture tonight if I can

 

Thanks for your input. They just give you the option to power it yourself if you want to do it that way. I was reading last night in the how-to section and they tell you how to make a new wire setup from the fuse block inside the car to power the gauges, so I might do that. I don't know how I feel about the Interceptor turning off at different times other than the other 2. That is kind of weird. I'm a picky individual, and that would bother me, so I'll probably just run a new wire and power all three at once.

Besides, I leave my car in the garage sometimes for a week without driving it and I don't want to have to plug and unplug the Interceptor, as they tell you to unplug if you're not driving it. So, it sounds as if the new wire may be ok with me.

MP81, I will certainly check on the bolts today for you.

I was also telling you guys about the ZZP triple gauge pod not matching perfectly and I've been trying to figure out how to handle that. On the G5 board someone took fabric paint and painted their A-pillars and their headliner black. I bought some fabric paint on Friday night and I removed my passenger A-pillar last night and am going to give that a try. Since I'm a dealer, I found that the passenger side is only like $18 so if I ruin it that will not be very costly.

Ok... MP81.

The intake manifold mount to block bolts are exactly M8x1.25x61.9 MM.. lol... so you could use 60 or 65. I'm sure the 60's would be fine.

I have a slight issue... Casey? Can you help me. I may be able to figure out quite a few things, lol, but this one I am stumped. I have never done it before.

How to I put my gauges in my gauge pod? I have the glowshift boost gauge and the AEM wideband and I don't seem to be able to get them into my triple gauge pod properly. WTF... what am I to do? lol.

 

lol. Well, for starters, the AEM wideband is an oversized gauge. It is the standard 52mm (or w/e) that gauges are, but the front cover section causes the diameter at the end to be a bit larger. The solution is to (very carefully) dremel out just enough extra room from the A pillar to fit the gauge in flush. If i remember correctly, it was the top section that needed the most dremeling to make it fit. Since you are painting your A-pillar, you might want to do this before painting.

Both gauges should have some piece of plastic or metal on the back that screws in with 2 nuts. First you run the wires to the A pillar so you can reach them, then you put the gauges into the front of the A pillar (before installing the A pillar). Once the gauge is in, you screw that plastic/metal piece into the gauge from the back of the A pillar. That will hold the gauge in place. Then you plug in or make whatever connections are necessary for your gauges, and install the A pillar. I hope that helps.

 

Well I've had some more time to play around with it since then. Here is what I think happened.

I bought the ZZP triple gauge pod, so the first hole (bottom) is enough to insert the AEM wideband gauge and then screw on the bezel. That one is ok.

The one I was trying to install was my GlowShift boost gauge and I believe this gauge is the issue. Am I right in saying that most gauges have a screw on bezel so you can install the gauge and then screw on the bezel?

My GlowShift gauge bezel cannot be screwed off because it has a button in the center of the bezel to change the colors, etc. It is actually press fitted and clamped on.

When I see other people with the ZZP triple gauge pod, they have not modified the pillar, so this leads me to believe the autometer series, etc, have screw on bezels.

I actually ruined my ZZP triple gauge pod from trying to smash the GlowShift boost gauge in there. I'm pissed, lol.

I decided today that since the color was not that far off, I wasn't going to paint it.

So can anyone tell me if the autometer gauges bezels screw on and off? Twist... I should say. I ordered one, so I hope so.

 

my bezel doesnt screw on or off. You just slide it in..lol

 

Dude that isn't what I wanted to hear at all. There is no way I'd be able to push the gauge in without ruining my pillar. Maybe the Autometer bezel is a different size than the GlowShift because I see a lot of people using the Autometer gauges with this pod and the ZZP site says it will fit Autometer gauges so let's hope so.

 

u have a pic of the glowshift gauge? and im assuming its the standard size diameter?

 

Well, it is the 2 1/6 or whatever, 52mm... after screwing around with it 4 times today I decided to get it out again and test it.

It appears you cannot just push the gauge straight down. You have to push it down far enough to get the back of the gauge through the hole in the pillar, then push down on the top of the gauge in the front, to start to get the gauge in sideways... and then when it clears the area on the pillar where it contacts you can push it down straight again.

I ordered another gauge for nothing, lol.

P.S. Thank you for helping me Casey.

 

haha
any time dude. glad you figured everything out

 

Go for it

 

so is this done yet?

 

What type of coolant are you guys using? Any additives, is it different for the engine than the heat exchanger circuit?

 

LOL Jn2. No man... I'm still getting stuff together, painting stuff.. etc. I still have to work on the hole in the supercharger, no big deal, and some other odds and ends. I had to paint my ZZP heat exchanger over the weekend because they sent me one with the gay logo on it. Then I have to schedule with a couple of friends. I still have to get the cable coming yet so I can get the original tune logged for Vince to tune for me.

MP81... I am going to use Dexcool for that system. Most others do as well.

 

dexcool coolant. For the HE system, i just used water and water wetter, but of course here in socal, the coldest it got this winter was like 34*, so I dont need to worry about the water freezing in the system, so I dont add antifreeze. Actually even my engine cooling system is probably a 2/3 water, 1/3 dexcool mix now, instead of the regular 50/50. But anywhere that has freezing temperatures during the winter (most places) should run a 50/50 of water and dexcool, and add a bottle of water wetter if you like.