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Without beefing up my internals, probably not safe to go over 250hp that being said, I’m likely already at 200 engine hp, 155whp. Full exhaust, headers, tuned, intake..
Black Friday is near, and ***’s supercharger kit is calling me, I want the kit, a LSJ heat exchanger, dual bypass, option b, gauge housing, air fuel gauge, boost gauge, option b bracket and
with shipping and the exchange and 10% off it’s 3500...
realistically I’m thinking because I only need to bring this up 50-75hp I probably don’t need an LSJ Heat exchanger? Or dual bypass then
option b is a must in my opinion.
And gauges... it would be nice to have, but essential? I got hp tuners, and a plex3 I can see air fuel ratio and boost when setting the thing up, will I really need gauges all the time?
Dont get me wrong i think they would look slick af and cool to have but additional.
Looking for opinions here,
Maybe additional heat exchanger could be added easily down the road like in the summer next year
Can’t see this being run any higher than a stock LSJ, I believe they were 12psi, with one, larger heat exchanger but in poor placement.
The option b would account for smaller heat exchnager. And it, would have open air
Read a study, an additional exchnager paired in series would reduce temp by up to 40% on cobalts. Meh maybe for people going 350hp it’ll be noticeable, on a 250hp car I don’t want blow up.. do I really need that
Considering buying the kit and option b and a new tune, probably b 3k and a bit maybe with install shipping what not. Rather than 4500 in parts and install
Now this^ gives me bad ideas, but I don’t wanna go that far
if I’m not mistaken the rating of 250hp breaking point is referring to engine delivered hp, not wheel, correct?
im not gonna get into the arguments, but i can say ive supercharged 2 hhrs with lap engines without an issue. first one was our shop run around car, a 2011 hhr auto, we ended up taking the supercharger off and selling the car. the 2nd i did for my bosses kid, it was a 2009 hhr lap 5 speed. its running a 3.1" pulley, 42lb injectors, dual pass and uses a cobra heat exchanger (essentially a bunch of leftover stuff from my lsj over the years). car also has a header and full exhaust. the tune was conservative, afr under boost is always in the low 11s and it doesnt have much timing at all. i did this at least 6-8 months ago, havent had a single issue with it.
Not an argument.... it's an opinion. I hope the pistons hold up.
i dont have any thoughts that they wont. im not sure if the lap pistons are any different than the l61 pistons, but back in the day when the l61 was a brand new thing a number of people found the limits of the l61, including myself. it for sure doesnt take a lot to hurt them, i popped a couple engines from running just a hair above 12:1 afr, however keeping the engines a bit rich with low timing and they seemed to live. the failures i had was the top of the piston breaking, it appeared it was caused by the top ring butting together, and being the top ring is so close to the top of the piston it gets hot quick, and the piston breaks easily.
keep it pretty tame and itll be ok. i wouldnt expect to make more than 225 whp, anymore and your playing with fire. or pull it apart and throw in a set of eagle rods, wiseco pistons and a set of head studs, then throw anything you want at it.
Interesting... Not eager to spend 4k on the car, it's low miles though so I'd like too keep beefing it up..
Perhaps I should stick N/A, use the black Friday sales coming up get an LSJ throttle body, 2.4l intake manifold and a new tune, that would only be like 700 dollars give or take... I could install myself and flash the thing too, no labor
Your pcm is not capable of limiting boost to the supercharger. It will peak based on the pulley size every time you stand on it. I wish you the best of luck.
I did not know that, very interesting thankyou
Thought the PCM could regulate that
So theoretically, I would need a boost controller to limit boost eh? more money
Leaning further away from this idea then,
I'll beef up the intake manifold and throttle body then, stop there.
If you go turbo it would be a waste to not go forged internals because you won't be using it anywhere close to it's potential. Supercharger with a 3.1 pulley and you should be safe for a long time. I ran 3.1 on 91 octane, 11.5 AFR, and about 14 degrees of ignition timing and never had any issues but only ran it like that for about a year. Many people have had success with that setup. I'm guessing HGT is weary because of his personal experience popping ring-lands on his 2.4
I would recommend dual-pass end plate. Even with lower power you still want optimal cooling. Opt. B does not really provide additional cooling as you have mentioned, the fluid is not routed to flow through the tank. The main benefit of option B is it makes it easier to add fluid and burp the air out of the system. If you want to save money LSJ heat exchangers can be found cheap. You absolutely need a wide-band gauge to monitor air/fuel ratios for tuning, troubleshooting and peace of mind. Boost gauge could be optional but I find it also to be useful for troubleshooting. You can save a good amount of money buying an used M62. The rotors can be recaoted and with new bearings installed like new performance. For your setup the ZZP belt routing will be fine and you can save money not needing an LSJ alternator, AC compressor and all the other belt accessories.
I supercharged my 2009 g5 with the 2.2 LAP engine almost 5 years ago and it was at around 32k miles. Still running strong and have had no failures in it's years being supercharged. It's on a 2.9 pulley, has dual pass endplate, aem Cai, 60lb injectors and stock HE because my stage 3 zzp HE broke. Not making as much power as it was before but it made 232 hp on 93 without stage 3 HE on low timing. And I don't race the car as much as I used to when I installed the m62 but I will run it from time to time and have no issues. Still whoops hemis and cammed LS trucks on the daily 😬. She cowards in fear of 5.0 mustangs though lol. Most here are running 11s or 10s
I supercharged my 2009 g5 with the 2.2 LAP engine almost 5 years ago and it was at around 32k miles. Still running strong and have had no failures in it's years being supercharged. It's on a 2.9 pulley, has dual pass endplate, aem Cai, 60lb injectors and stock HE because my stage 3 zzp HE broke. Not making as much power as it was before but it made 232 hp on 93 without stage 3 HE on low timing. And I don't race the car as much as I used to when I installed the m62 but I will run it from time to time and have no issues. Still whoops hemis and cammed LS trucks on the daily 😬. She cowards in fear of 5.0 mustangs though lol. Most here are running 11s or 10s
Oh hell yeah! Lol old 5.0 are child's play. I sold the car after that last post and it still running with it's new semi abusive owner. Did you finish your build?
Oh hell yeah! Lol old 5.0 are child's play. I sold the car after that last post and it still running with it's new semi abusive owner. Did you finish your build?
Getting closer to having it back together. Revising/improving some things along the way. Should be able to lower the car down onto the cradle by this weekend then all I have to do is wire all the components and tune the ECS.
Struggles and Success, of G5ALIVE Build discussion
Spent more $$ on the car today
Got a new belt tesnioner put on today! and decided I wanted new CAB so why not just get aluminium control arms.
They came with new balljoints and I proceeded to redo the inner and outter tie rods as the jam nut was seized.
Followed by an alignment.
tomorrow she goes back for the Solid Transmission mounts to finally go in.
---
Went to the Drag Strip the other week and just wow. never seen so many parachutes before
First Pull I launched Hard & Lost Traction Quick. Traction Control was on/off all the way down the track and I gave up the pass finishing at 28 seconds.
Ran 4 more times after and struggled at every launch the car was bogging momentarily each pass.
Stopped launching as hard but the engine didn't like being power braked at all.
Tried launching with my traction control switch and the launch seemed more stable but slower for sure, turned it off half way down the track ran a 15.3 or something
Ended up running 15.09 at the end of the day
Did some research after that to see if it was good or not.
LSJ should run 14.7 stock and while LSJ are all manual LSD with launch control and the appropriate low compression and intake runners, I'm thinking I'm not far off considering the lack of actual LSJ in my power/ drive train
Stock I should've ran about 16.5 so maybe my bog wasn't as bad as I thought.
But running with a bad tensioner, wobbly trans mounts and CAB I'm sure I could do better next time.
Haven't gotten figures yet from a dyno but
In the city bottom end I'm getting consistent 243 ft/lbs of engine delivered torque in hp tuners
Going up to 120km/hr on the free way about average 250
On a straight highway with the room to go nuts I was getting a steady 265ft/pounds top end. Which was awesome because I was not expecting to making good power top end..
Tuning still going on for the moment, tires are on the list but not too imperative right now
Definitely gonna try again at the drag strip this summer though, hopefully autocross too But for the moment feeling pretty positive with how the car is coming along
Got some new tires put on today! and it rained... W speed rating, Falken something or other. Sporty enough for the DD
Transmission mounts caused quite a bit more vibrations then expected.
Its kinda funny for the moment, but I am hoping the bushings settle a bit...
Got a new belt tesnioner put on today! and decided I wanted new CAB so why not just get aluminium control arms.
They came with new balljoints and I proceeded to redo the inner and outter tie rods as the jam nut was seized.
Followed by an alignment.
tomorrow she goes back for the Solid Transmission mounts to finally go in.
---
Went to the Drag Strip the other week and just wow. never seen so many parachutes before
First Pull I launched Hard & Lost Traction Quick. Traction Control was on/off all the way down the track and I gave up the pass finishing at 28 seconds.
Ran 4 more times after and struggled at every launch the car was bogging momentarily each pass.
Stopped launching as hard but the engine didn't like being power braked at all.
Tried launching with my traction control switch and the launch seemed more stable but slower for sure, turned it off half way down the track ran a 15.3 or something
Ended up running 15.09 at the end of the day
Did some research after that to see if it was good or not.
LSJ should run 14.7 stock and while LSJ are all manual LSD with launch control and the appropriate low compression and intake runners, I'm thinking I'm not far off considering the lack of actual LSJ in my power/ drive train
Stock I should've ran about 16.5 so maybe my bog wasn't as bad as I thought.
But running with a bad tensioner, wobbly trans mounts and CAB I'm sure I could do better next time.
Haven't gotten figures yet from a dyno but
In the city bottom end I'm getting consistent 243 ft/lbs of engine delivered torque in hp tuners
Going up to 120km/hr on the free way about average 250
On a straight highway with the room to go nuts I was getting a steady 265ft/pounds top end. Which was awesome because I was not expecting to making good power top end..
Tuning still going on for the moment, tires are on the list but not too imperative right now
Definitely gonna try again at the drag strip this summer though, hopefully autocross too But for the moment feeling pretty positive with how the car is coming along
Just an fyi, the LSJ did not come with launch control and the LSD was an option. The LNF came with launch control, but manually launched nets better 60' times and 0-60, also LSD was an option not standard.
Are you cleaning your tires pre run? Also start around 2k rpm and focus on the 60' times once they're consistent start increasing 500ish rpms until the fastest time, tire spin, or an axle breaks.
No I was going around the water every time, I have to practice/ learn how to 'burnout' first haha
My launches were definitely sloppy no question about it. Will definitely try and practice launching at 2k!
I had no real RPM goals at launch the first run, I didn't even think about it, I just power braked to what felt right,
the next runs I was aiming for a value way to high,( above 2k range closer to 3k and up, and it was just bouncing the RPM's back which likely lead to all my bogging)
My best 60 foot was 2.28, which I was really proud of for my first day at the track though it only produced low 15s
No need to water box it, just give the tires a quick burnout that helps remove any dirt or stones.
I forget your auto, I thought you were a manual trans. Trying to get your launch rpms is going to be difficult
Oh I believe you! I think its gonna take a lot of practice on/ off the track.
Will definitely try spinning the tires before coming to the line next time, thats a good idea
and will certainly target 2k for launching and go from there
Reset trans adaptives today and set preset in hptuners.
Wow what a difference!
Felt like my trans was slipping in 1st but things feel on point now!
ZZ_ says the tune is done now.
——
still got a couple issues left with the car, trying to work threw them one by one, learning lots as I go along.
surging is the next thing I’m gonna try to tackle.
Its been a problem for about a year now. (Since N/A)
Hoped that a new intake system would fix the problem or at least the more power would make it more prominent for trouble shooting.
I have tried three throttle bodies, done hp tuner re learn, vehicle re learn. Re done all vacuum hoses/ clamps.
Matt said it was likely the throttle body, I don’t want to agree with that but I do believe it’s a mechanical issue somewhere.
Anybody have any thoughts?
When I was NA, I tried cleaning the manifold doing gaskets, cleaning sensors(maf and map), replaceed upstream O2 sensor. New plugs, coils.... my next thought
is rear O2 sensor.
I put a rear O2 angular on it about a year ago, right away I noticed some worse off gas mileage but the angular prevented the sensor from hitting the heat shield tunnel.
I plan to remove this and install a new sensor this week.
I know most people will say the sensor does nothing but test the catalyst, but I want to believe the ecu is having conflict with the slow reacting rear signal.
Idk that’s where I’m at...
Bumped into a friend after work on my way home, parked beside him to say hello and gave the car a good rev to flex...
Of course the car stuck a high idle at 3500 rpm for about 7 full seconds before I just killed the ignition...
Washed my car last Saturday, and apparently flooded the horn lol so cleaning that this weekend.
Going in deep... there is a few things I wanted to do: re-adjust the CAI (see if i can get it to sit nicer in the fender and/ or possibly closer to the TB)
I remember I cleaned my MAF last week again and didn't have the proper tools so I was not able to get it in super tight but it was snug
(peace of mind I'll hit those screws with an impact )
Also want to make sure my air filter is not too far down the CAI pipe (peace of mind) ,
Apart from that... was looking at my break booster today. Now the hose itself is fine but on the brake booster side the hose slips on a connector which attaches to the booster..
that connector looks okay hose side, but between # 6 and # 7, it is very questionable. Very malleable space between that connector and the booster .
Will be doing some research on that tomorrow while I have a few more resources at my disposal.
Who knows maybe Matt is right.. I did try looking at voltages on the pedal and TB sensor, they always came back to the same value.
I think the cheapest TB i could find was a Cardone and even that was like triple an LAP TB so I'm not too eager to explore a 4th throttle body without knowing more...
Or maybe I should be looking back at my evap purge or the brake booster itself could be worn..
I have no issues with the brakes however
One thing that interests me is, with the engine off, my vacuum gauge reads/ flickers between 0.0 and 0.1 (digital)
I know where I live is about 10-15m below sea level from where the tuner is, perhaps that flickering value could amount to a slight vacuum air density deviation.
But as I re-read my work here, I'm now thinking for my vacuum gauge to read, key must be in on position, fuel pump would be seeding, evap purge would likely then be opening and closing if im not mistaken... I think I will be verifying if evap purge comes on (in hp tuners) while the engine is off, key on. hmmm
11-16-2018, 06:54 PM
Moderator
W speed rating, Falken something or other. Sporty enough for the DD 
)