Supercharger build Lap
#77
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
So is the nozzle on the other side of the black AEM piece?
BTW, I have my old DevilsOwn 90 quick connect fittings I would sell you for a couple bucks if this setup isn't ideal. I'm using straight fittings now so no use for them. Not sure how AEMs nozzels compare but I'm pretty sure my fittings have one side quick connect and the other is female 1/4" NPT
BTW, I have my old DevilsOwn 90 quick connect fittings I would sell you for a couple bucks if this setup isn't ideal. I'm using straight fittings now so no use for them. Not sure how AEMs nozzels compare but I'm pretty sure my fittings have one side quick connect and the other is female 1/4" NPT
#78
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'll keep that in mind thanks!
..I read about your crazy setup with dual taps in the manifold. That's awesome..
Anyway, no the black think is the "injector," pretty long eh? The "spray nozzle" is in the far right portion, shown in the image
I can take some pictures later if your curious of the insides and what not
..I read about your crazy setup with dual taps in the manifold. That's awesome..
Anyway, no the black think is the "injector," pretty long eh? The "spray nozzle" is in the far right portion, shown in the image
I can take some pictures later if your curious of the insides and what not
#79
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well I got a compression and leak down test today. "All cylinders at 190-200
psi performed leak-down test. less then 5 % leakage on all clylinders."
-Tech said it was perfect for the age of engine, So that's good, I can rest my worries.
One thing noted was my spark plugs were VERY brown.
psi performed leak-down test. less then 5 % leakage on all clylinders."
-Tech said it was perfect for the age of engine, So that's good, I can rest my worries.
One thing noted was my spark plugs were VERY brown.
Last edited by G5ALIVE; 09-03-2019 at 11:45 AM.
#80
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Well I got a compression and leak down test today. "All cylinders at 190-200
psi performed leak-down test. less then 5 % leakage on all clylinders."
-Tech said it was perfect for the age of engine, So that's good, I can rest my worries.
One thing noted was my spark plugs were VERY brown.
psi performed leak-down test. less then 5 % leakage on all clylinders."
-Tech said it was perfect for the age of engine, So that's good, I can rest my worries.
One thing noted was my spark plugs were VERY brown.
#81
Senior Member
Thread Starter
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G5ALIVE (09-03-2019)
#85
Senior Member
Thread Starter
No leaks this time! The 2nd fitting is definitely better quality but the threads were also a lot longer compared to the first.
I wasn't comfortable with such a small space between my rad-support and the injector assembly, so I cut a small pocket in the support.
Which in the end, kinda defeated the whole purpose of a 90 degree fitting..
Though it looks good and its time to fill the tank with more than just water!
3 weeks till the drag strip closes! Ambient temps are going to be the coldest all season !
A meth tune should have been the last thing on my to do list but I had the pleasure of finding some unmarked speed bumps this past week.
Needles to say my front end needs some attention
Soon: 15.09 will become 14.??, but.. will it stop there? Stay tuned.
I wasn't comfortable with such a small space between my rad-support and the injector assembly, so I cut a small pocket in the support.
Which in the end, kinda defeated the whole purpose of a 90 degree fitting..
Though it looks good and its time to fill the tank with more than just water!
3 weeks till the drag strip closes! Ambient temps are going to be the coldest all season !
A meth tune should have been the last thing on my to do list but I had the pleasure of finding some unmarked speed bumps this past week.
Needles to say my front end needs some attention
Soon: 15.09 will become 14.??, but.. will it stop there? Stay tuned.
#86
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Looks like I destroyed my fromt Koni’s. They are bent, I had a feeling when adjusting them.....
slid my whole sub frame about a CM or two off.
Needs new mounts, struts and sub frame bolts.
Was able to find some nice KYB’s or whatever in the city pretty disappointed to have broke my konis in under two years though. Perhaps I should be grateful that’s all I broke.. Got the subframe bolts already so that was the hardest thing to get hopefully I should have some struts in tomorrow, fingers crossed.
slid my whole sub frame about a CM or two off.
Needs new mounts, struts and sub frame bolts.
Was able to find some nice KYB’s or whatever in the city pretty disappointed to have broke my konis in under two years though. Perhaps I should be grateful that’s all I broke.. Got the subframe bolts already so that was the hardest thing to get hopefully I should have some struts in tomorrow, fingers crossed.
#88
Senior Member
Thread Starter
this is a picture of my car with the wheels straight
now without moving the adjustment dial, this is with my wheels turned all the way right. notice the difference?
#89
Senior Member
Thread Starter
To my knowledge when I hit the speed bump really fast, when I came down on the pavement; I either pulled away my Sub frame bolts first and bent the shocks second or vise versa. Not sure how it could happen exactly, but there was a lot of force when hitting the ground.
I parked my car the other night, wheels were turned all the way to the left, went to check my Koni settings and noticed, I could barely get the adjustment dial on the top of my RF strut as it was angled much more towards my cowl rather than straight up. That's when I took pics of my strut towers.
When my wheels were straight forward, the top of my RF strut was straight up as usual.
So I checked the LF and it was not moving in the same manor at all. So I had a hunch that one of my shocks may have been bent in someway.
I didn't mention this to the tech until after he told me.
The techs words are "bent struts, shifted sub-frame" and I trust that well.
Now are the Koni's destroyed: no. They are not leaking as of now at least.
But I don't think they can be salvaged. I'm thinking the damage may have occurred at its mounting points and the insert may still be straight.
To install the Koni inserts there are side ribs on the insert that get pulled down into strut housing's and lock the insert in place.
Even if the insert wasn't bent, not sure it could be transferred to a new housing successfully.
Will most some pics of the old parts, Tech didn't have time to answer a million of my questions and the car was already on the ground when I got to his stall.
Curious to see everything.
I myself can't visualize bent bolts at the control arm to sub-frame points. But man does it match up with the feeling of a wondering alignment while cruising.
I parked my car the other night, wheels were turned all the way to the left, went to check my Koni settings and noticed, I could barely get the adjustment dial on the top of my RF strut as it was angled much more towards my cowl rather than straight up. That's when I took pics of my strut towers.
When my wheels were straight forward, the top of my RF strut was straight up as usual.
So I checked the LF and it was not moving in the same manor at all. So I had a hunch that one of my shocks may have been bent in someway.
I didn't mention this to the tech until after he told me.
The techs words are "bent struts, shifted sub-frame" and I trust that well.
Now are the Koni's destroyed: no. They are not leaking as of now at least.
But I don't think they can be salvaged. I'm thinking the damage may have occurred at its mounting points and the insert may still be straight.
To install the Koni inserts there are side ribs on the insert that get pulled down into strut housing's and lock the insert in place.
Even if the insert wasn't bent, not sure it could be transferred to a new housing successfully.
Will most some pics of the old parts, Tech didn't have time to answer a million of my questions and the car was already on the ground when I got to his stall.
Curious to see everything.
I myself can't visualize bent bolts at the control arm to sub-frame points. But man does it match up with the feeling of a wondering alignment while cruising.
Last edited by G5ALIVE; 09-11-2019 at 08:26 PM.
#90
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Before you assume your strut is bent or your subframe shifted, check to make sure that top nut on the Koni insert, in your picture, is tight. I know they are hard to tighten properly because there isn't an easy way to grip the strut shaft as you try to tighten it. I'm betting your nut is just loose. Do you notice a clunking sound as you go over bumps?
#91
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hard to say, sticky question. Its a loud car, loud dash. Solid mounts make slow speeds harsh, high speeds tend to be very smooth.
Lately going over bumps quickly, I feel a lot more sloop, a little more noise but not much.
Not as loud as I would expect from a loose strut.
I've read about what you are talking about, I checked on that once when I first had them Installed. But I can check that tomorrow too.
In general though lately, no, no clunks. cheap dash but suspension was good!
Lately going over bumps quickly, I feel a lot more sloop, a little more noise but not much.
Not as loud as I would expect from a loose strut.
I've read about what you are talking about, I checked on that once when I first had them Installed. But I can check that tomorrow too.
In general though lately, no, no clunks. cheap dash but suspension was good!
#92
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Hard to say, sticky question. Its a loud car, loud dash. Solid mounts make slow speeds harsh, high speeds tend to be very smooth.
Lately going over bumps quickly, I feel a lot more sloop, a little more noise but not much.
Not as loud as I would expect from a loose strut.
I've read about what you are talking about, I checked on that once when I first had them Installed. But I can check that tomorrow too.
In general though lately, no, no clunks. cheap dash but suspension was good!
Lately going over bumps quickly, I feel a lot more sloop, a little more noise but not much.
Not as loud as I would expect from a loose strut.
I've read about what you are talking about, I checked on that once when I first had them Installed. But I can check that tomorrow too.
In general though lately, no, no clunks. cheap dash but suspension was good!
#94
Senior Member
So is the nozzle on the other side of the black AEM piece?
BTW, I have my old DevilsOwn 90 quick connect fittings I would sell you for a couple bucks if this setup isn't ideal. I'm using straight fittings now so no use for them. Not sure how AEMs nozzels compare but I'm pretty sure my fittings have one side quick connect and the other is female 1/4" NPT
BTW, I have my old DevilsOwn 90 quick connect fittings I would sell you for a couple bucks if this setup isn't ideal. I'm using straight fittings now so no use for them. Not sure how AEMs nozzels compare but I'm pretty sure my fittings have one side quick connect and the other is female 1/4" NPT
Looks like a Snow nozzle holder on the right:
Remember, Boost Juice and Devils Own Brew are known to ship water with a splash of methanol (much less meth than advertised). -20F Blue washer fluid would be just as effective especially if you add 1 bottle of yellow heet (99% methanol) to a gallon of blue washer fluid.
#97
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
while having a drum of e85 would be great, im sure your house insurance would be quite invalled in the event of a fire. im sure the firefighters wouldnt be too happy about that either.
i just buy jugs of methyl hydrate, its 98% pure methanol. i have a 10l gas can and mix in 2 jugs of methyl hydrate and fill it the rest of the way with water, it gives me roughly a 70-30 mix (i overfill the gas can past the 10l mark). between both my cars, this lasts me close a year.
i wouldnt bother with washer fluid. by the time you buy a jug of winter washer fluid and add the bottle of gas line antifreeze (thats what heet is) your at least $5 for a gallon. should be able to get a gallon of methyl hydrate for under $10, and if your running 50/50 mix that will make you 2 gallons. the price difference is negligible, the upside is your not running the blue dye and cleaning agents through the water/meth system and through the engine.
i just buy jugs of methyl hydrate, its 98% pure methanol. i have a 10l gas can and mix in 2 jugs of methyl hydrate and fill it the rest of the way with water, it gives me roughly a 70-30 mix (i overfill the gas can past the 10l mark). between both my cars, this lasts me close a year.
i wouldnt bother with washer fluid. by the time you buy a jug of winter washer fluid and add the bottle of gas line antifreeze (thats what heet is) your at least $5 for a gallon. should be able to get a gallon of methyl hydrate for under $10, and if your running 50/50 mix that will make you 2 gallons. the price difference is negligible, the upside is your not running the blue dye and cleaning agents through the water/meth system and through the engine.
#98
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Your point may still be valid but I meant to say methanol. I have a 54? gallon steel barrel of VP methanol in my detached garage and I really don't have any concerns of it elevating my risk of fire. I always store it with the lids screwed into place. My garage would be a lost cause by the time the barrel presented any issues.
#99
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
Your point may still be valid but I meant to say methanol. I have a 54? gallon steel barrel of VP methanol in my detached garage and I really don't have any concerns of it elevating my risk of fire. I always store it with the lids screwed into place. My garage would be a lost cause by the time the barrel presented any issues.
#100
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Progress Update:
Broke my Jegs catch can not too long ago.
Being a Dodge dealer, all I could get my hands on quickly were hemi oil/air separators lol but I made it work.. Really like that it has a drain port, makes draining super easy. Ran a translucent hose all the way to the ground So I could visually see the fluid leaving the tank. Loving it.
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Meth is off right now, found a new tuner! He's putting in the time and the car is running like a champ right now.
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Found an FE3 sway bar yesterday, bought, painted, ready to go in. (which is actually impressive because FE3 cars are very uncommon here, I've looked so many times..)
I was really missing my Koni's on Monday, contacted Powell, inquiring about their pre-made koni packages. Though was told, they are almost done their Belstein packages, 2 years in the making. Going to try and hold off for these as they sound like perfection for the delta platform.
Night and day difference without Konis, its like a part of the car is missing. So thats on my mind. KYB's are good and stiff, but hold no light to their yellow competitor.
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Never ended up going to the drag strip on the closing day. In so many ways I wasn't ready to take it back on the strip.
I will be ready for the opening day 2020...maybe....
Ambient temps were 5 degrees Celcius though that day, IAT would have been stupid low. shame..
Lots of mechanical improvements on my list to come