differences in ss'sess
Originally Posted by traviskearney
I loose? Who was I against? I just wanted to know some info on the 2.4ss to see if "I" should have bought it instead of the 2.2 Cavalier. And "I" think I made a good choice, thanks for the info about them. Not sure who I was against there, but I guess they really showed me.
Originally Posted by traviskearney
Everyone knows that there is about a 20% loss of power between the crank and wheel horsepower in an automatic. I'm not proving anything other than "I" am happy I bought a 2.2 cavalier over a 2.4 cobalt. Don't care what other people would like to buy, that's up to them. I dont think I'm a *******, I think the one who doesnt know the difference between crank and wheel horsepower is.
P.S. If I had a 5 speed it would be 166.7 wheel horsepower.
P.S. If I had a 5 speed it would be 166.7 wheel horsepower.
Okay... you're dynoing at 150 whp.... I've got a SS 2.4 Sedan Dyno here that's reading 155 whp and 158 tq BONE STOCK. So what you've got done to that 2.2 Cavi puts you about on level with the stock 2.4... start modding the 2.4 from there and then you've got something.
BONE STOCK with an Injen short ram intake? I'm curious as to how you lose less than 10% through the flywheel. A Cobalt with 171 horsepower, and an automatic transmission should have about 137-143 at the ground. If you get another dyno with header back exhaust, let me know. If that is a 2.4ss with an SRI, it still costs $5425 more to acheive 4 more horses. I'd have to see BIG increases with small dollar gains to want to switch.
Okay.... it's not a dyno of MY car.... it's a dyno of a SS 2.4 Sedan... just ballpark numbers.... and by the way... GM has been known to under rate it's performance cars by 10% or more. I don't think the 2.4 is just producing 170hp... I do plan on getting a dyno pull done on mine come summer... after I do header and exhaust...
im renewing my car insurence this month with allstate-they had the best deal- and they told me that they had 19!!! different version of the cobalt! so as the come commercial goes... "whats in your wallet?".............we go "what cobalt are you driving...doh!
Originally Posted by SilverStreak
Okay.... it's not a dyno of MY car.... it's a dyno of a SS 2.4 Sedan... just ballpark numbers.... and by the way... GM has been known to under rate it's performance cars by 10% or more. I don't think the 2.4 is just producing 170hp... I do plan on getting a dyno pull done on mine come summer... after I do header and exhaust...
Honestly if your looking to go fast for cheap, as it looks like travis is, its never good to get a new car. take the n20 off that eco and boost that sum bitch. the 2.2's make great numbers with simple kits.
Originally Posted by Brandon97Z
Honestly if your looking to go fast for cheap, as it looks like travis is, its never good to get a new car. take the n20 off that eco and boost that sum bitch. the 2.2's make great numbers with simple kits.
265hp for $1325 sounds better than 240hp for $2700.
Actually...even if you wanted to get a new car, the Cavaliers at the end of their production could be bought for CHEAP. you'd still just have the 2.2 as opposed to the 2.4, but you'd be starting off alot cheaper. It's all just personal preference in the styling. I liked the Z24 and LS Sport Cavaliers. Otherwise I thought they were really boring. But hell, I've seen some Cobalts that I thought were boring. My family has always bought the sport models in things. So I'm just used to the extra add-ons that come with sport/top line models. The engine it's self is up for debate. I've seen guys do good things with the 2.2's. A local kid has a black Cavy coupe 5 speed and it's pretty nice. Regardless, he bought a Cavalier, he's modding it, let him use his own logic to do what he wants. It's not our car.
* thumbsup *
* thumbsup *
Originally Posted by traviskearney
Everyone knows that there is about a 20% loss of power between the crank and wheel horsepower in an automatic. I'm not proving anything other than "I" am happy I bought a 2.2 cavalier over a 2.4 cobalt. Don't care what other people would like to buy, that's up to them. I dont think I'm a *******, I think the one who doesnt know the difference between crank and wheel horsepower is.
P.S. If I had a 5 speed it would be 166.7 wheel horsepower.
P.S. If I had a 5 speed it would be 166.7 wheel horsepower.
If you gained 50hp from the small mods you did then the Ecotec 2.2 would be the most responsive engine to minor mods ever built.
20hp from that would be on the high end of reasonable. To get above 20hp N/A, the head would have to be ported without question.
Going back to my J-body days from years ago, the manual trannies were about 10% and the auto's 12% driveline loss.
If you lost to an SS/SC by .4 in the 1/8 without NOS, that would stretch into about a second or more by the 1/4 mark.
Keep in mind that still puts you about a second quicker than a stock 2.2 Eco auto Cavy would be. So it's still pretty impressive.
And as long as you are happy with your car, it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks.
20hp from that would be on the high end of reasonable. To get above 20hp N/A, the head would have to be ported without question.
Going back to my J-body days from years ago, the manual trannies were about 10% and the auto's 12% driveline loss.
If you lost to an SS/SC by .4 in the 1/8 without NOS, that would stretch into about a second or more by the 1/4 mark.
Keep in mind that still puts you about a second quicker than a stock 2.2 Eco auto Cavy would be. So it's still pretty impressive.
And as long as you are happy with your car, it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks.
Originally Posted by 06G5GT
If you gained 50hp from the small mods you did then the Ecotec 2.2 would be the most responsive engine to minor mods ever built.
20hp from that would be on the high end of reasonable. To get above 20hp N/A, the head would have to be ported without question.
Going back to my J-body days from years ago, the manual trannies were about 10% and the auto's 12% driveline loss.
If you lost to an SS/SC by .4 in the 1/8 without NOS, that would stretch into about a second or more by the 1/4 mark.
Keep in mind that still puts you about a second quicker than a stock 2.2 Eco auto Cavy would be. So it's still pretty impressive.
And as long as you are happy with your car, it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks.
20hp from that would be on the high end of reasonable. To get above 20hp N/A, the head would have to be ported without question.
Going back to my J-body days from years ago, the manual trannies were about 10% and the auto's 12% driveline loss.
If you lost to an SS/SC by .4 in the 1/8 without NOS, that would stretch into about a second or more by the 1/4 mark.
Keep in mind that still puts you about a second quicker than a stock 2.2 Eco auto Cavy would be. So it's still pretty impressive.
And as long as you are happy with your car, it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks.
Originally Posted by SilverStreak
To continue reviving an old thread...
Hmm... all that work done... and I ran consistant 9.9s 1/8th mile passes with just a CAI...
What kind of numbers are you putting down with the NOS?
Hmm... all that work done... and I ran consistant 9.9s 1/8th mile passes with just a CAI...
What kind of numbers are you putting down with the NOS?
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