I supercharged my car in April of 2012. My car had 72k miles, I'm assuming still had it's stock clutch. Now I'm rolling on almost 2 years and I'm at 108k miles, and I've been on my current setup for almost a year now, 2.8" pulley full intake and exhaust, 12gph of 50/50 water and methanol and 20* advance. Still on my stock clutch. I've got a brand new KY stage 3 clutch sitting in a box for when it's time.

I've had a couple people say their clutch didn't last more than a month after they swapped. Are there many other people in the same shoes as I am? Do I just have a freak of nature clutch or good driving habits? I've only experienced my clutch slip a couple times when I didn't shift correctly. Who else is still on their stock clutch? How long has everyone else's clutch lasted?

 

the clutches in my new torque converter are just fine lol :p

 

mine slipped instantly after i got the blower on, but then again my motor didne last long either lol

 

Mine started slipping a couple weeks after I did the 2.8 m62
But I drive...Power shifting 2-3/3-4 every time I race
-on 2nd set of shifter cables, 3rd CPP sensor(broke em), bent the roll pin twice(this time trans has to come out cause its real bad, cannot get it out), broke shifter base, fucked up stock shifter
spec 3+ has been holding just fine for 30-40K

been 2.6" tvs, 24gph 50/50, 21*(pretty sure, cannot remember) for close to 12-15K now

 

All that timing, good for power...

 

Damn 2.6" on a TVS? I imagine your still on a stock bottom end too right? I bet that's a fun car to drive lol. One thing I did learn with methanol is that the LE5 seems to love fuel. I first had a 4 gph nozzle and it didn't do anything really. WOT afr didn't change maybe a couple .10s.

Verb, how did you handle tip in knock? My car as well as a friend of mine both seem to knock right between 0-4 psi, or if I snap right into WOT. If I roll into boost then I'm usually ok, but that's no fun on a supercharged car. I've got my meth switch set to kick in around 2 psi just to try and combat that. It doesn't matter what changes I make in the timing table where it knocks. It's usually always 3.9-6* of KR.

 

Have you tried disabling burst knock? Burst knock is a predictive feature of the KR system that anticipates where knock might occur. For instance, on a sudden snap to WOT.

 

No, I never noticed that feature. Are there pros and cons to having it off vs on? If it's just the ecu "predicting" knock, then I don't see a reason for that to be enabled. If the KR system still reacts accordingly when detonation is or has occurred then there should be no problem right?

 

From what ive discussed on hptuners, yes you are correct. The idea behind burst knock is to prevent knock before it occur's, thats why id suspect that thats whats going on. The WOT snap and the fact that the car see's an abnormally high MAP reading compared to what it is normally acustom to probably triggers the burst knock. There are several threads on the hptuners forum about it as well. Needless to say this is the table for it.



I've also had to make several modifications to the knock retard decay rate and attack rate as well to prevent false knock. Namely the Knock Sensor Level, which is under the "Knock Sensors" tab, and increasing the initial and minimum levels by between 5-10% helped to get rid of the sensitivity issues I was having. If you farted near the knock sensor it would pick it up and start pulling timing. You have to think about how aggressive a WOT snap is, and any number of things under the hood can make noise when that happens. Knock sensor sensitivity coupled with the way the computer learns and unlearns knock can give you a bad time when tuning. Alot of tuners will suggest disabling knock sensors all together when dyno tuning to get the most power, then re-enable them, and tune out whatever false knock is occurring, so that you get an accurate minimum threshold, but ive never subscribed to that theory, and its quite dangerous if your not on a dyno to actually see how the car is reacting to timing changes.

 

So our burst knock tables are identical. So I suppose it could be true knock? I think I'm at about 19-24* advance in the cells I knock at. 0.50-0.80 g/cyl. Maybe I just need to crank it down a bunch in that initial ramp to cruise timing.

 

Oh no, lol i just used that as a reference, if you wanna try getting rid of it, zero everything out. I have it left on in my car cus I havent had any issues like what your describing yet. That may change when I get this blower on with the 2.8 pulley though.

 

sorry this took a while to get, kept forgetting to pull the files off my laptop. Here's the settings I use for my knock sensors, burst retard is still enabled on my tune because I havent had issues with it, thats why our tunes match on those tables.

 

So do you think it would be wise for me to set my tables the same as what you're running? I feel like the knock I'm seeing is false knock but I'm not entirely sure. I'd like to throw some more timing in my cruising cells to squeeze out some more fuel economy. I get roughly 27.5 avg mpg with 70/30 highway/city, and like 25-26 with lots of city driving. I think that's really good for what my car is, but I think there is more the be had. I cruise between 26.5-28* advance at 2500 rpm. Plus I think I'd like to try and bump up my 20* advance at 6500 WOT to around 23-24* WOT at 6500 rpm.

Like I said before when going WOT I only knock at tip-in, never during the pull. Of course I'm losing timing during the pull due to the initial knock but if I roll into WOT I don't knock.

 

burst knock retard is a safety measure. it does pop up a knock reading, but on a daily driver thats not a big deal. when your tuning you may want to turn it off to filter it out, but its recommended to leave it on a daily tune

the quick throttle change may cause actual knock, and this table makes up for that and pulls alittle timing to account for it. its really only apparent for for milliseconds, so its not going to hurt power output that much.

and you dont disable knock retard during tuning to make more power, but to filter out false hits. if youre tuning for max timing and you have all of this false kr, then you have to go through and try to decide what is false, what may be burst, and what is real. that can be a pain with multiple pulls on 20 minute logs or more. the histos cannot discern this for you, so you eliminate the burst knock when tuning. that still doesnt account for false knock, but its a start.

le5s have way more ecu control than lsj's though. makes me super jealous

 

You have to be the judge of where the knock is occurring and if its actually false or not. Most ive been able to run NA has been 23* @ WOT even with my setting changes, a brand new motor, and brand new fuel injectors, running slightly on the rich side. So that might be a stretch for being blown. I would try disabling burst knock, see if it improves your situation any, worst case scenario it doesnt, and you just renable it. As long as you leave the normal knock retard learn in place, the car will protect itself without issue.