Yes I did! I saved it as a PDF also so if anyone ever needs torque specs/bearing clearances/assembly procedures lmk!


I may be coming back to you tho cherrygt when I start because I didn't print out every attached picture like the tightening order pics and the links no longer work

 

I like where this is going. I recommend replacing all timing components

 

Yeah I'm thinking:

LE5 2.4 Timing Chain Deluxe Set LE5DTCKIT

Is anything else timing wise needed? I plan on getting the stronger timing guide bolts from mr b

While I'm at it I might as well list my whole build list, anyone well-versed in engine building please give me some feedback!

ZZP 4130 Rods
ARP Head Studs
Assembly lube
ZZP 10.4:1 pistons
GM Main bearings
Clevite rod bearings
GM revised oil squiters
Supertech 75# valve springs
viton valve seals
Mr. B timing bolts
Spare Engine
Gen 3 block
Flywheel Bolts
CED head gasket kit
Level zero BS delete bushings
aem E85 fuel pump
CED deluxe timing kit
Balance shaft deletes
main girdle bolts
rear main seal


Machine Work:
magnaflux crank
hone bores to pistons
balance rotating assembly
deck block and head

 

hit up mongo for BS deletes and your gonna need a new rear main seal. Take front cover gasket off the list because it comes with your timing kit. More compression is okay, but if you won't be able to run as much boost with higher compression. You'll make power either way but you kinda have to pick your poison. This next engine I'm building will be back to stock compression

 

Yeah I bought the gen 3 block and BS deletes from him already, good call on the gasket and rear main I'll add that. As far as compression goes I like how the high compression motor acts out of boost and I just like the idea of alot of power on lowish boost.

What machine work did you have done when you built your motor?

 

Sleeves were honed from std to .010 and that's it. No decking although I should have.

 

When you assembled did you plastigage oil clearanes or inside/outside mic them?


lol sorry for all the questions I prob should just message you

 

Plasti gauge

 

YES you should always check bearing clearance with plastigauge !
Lay a piece on the crank or bearing, tighten to specs, remove and measure.

I said it was a timed link, lol.
when ever you want it, let me know.

 

clevite do a hardened rod bearing essential for the detonation resistance you will need, high compression forced induction motors are very hard to tune with the limited tools at your disposal. stock or lower compression is best imho

 

From what I've read, plasti-gauging it good but actually putting the mic on stuff is better. I will be doing both though.

Lol yeah I know just givin ya a heads up.


Certainly look into the clevites, thats a great point. Do you know if they are the same as the 2.2? I can't seem find 2.4 specific ones, know a place that sells them?

10.4 is stock which is what I'll be going, I get your point but with running E85 I think I should be good.

 

While you're at it, look into the Apexi boost controller. It has provisions for both boost by gear (but only 50% the normal PSI at the lowest) as well as boost thought the RPM range. Could solve some of your traction issues for a few hundred and keep it safer while still on your stock motor.
AVC-R, Boost Controller, (Black)

It's cheapest on eBay I believe about $400 new and you can find the instructions online if you want to look into it before you buy. It needs PRM and vehicle speed tapped into so it can tell which gear it is in.

 

Eh I like my hallman, if I only cared about the 1/4 mile im sure that would help but I got more important motor **** to buy now

 

Total build list


ZZP 4130 Rods
ARP Head Studs
Assembly lube
ZZP 10.4:1 pistons
GM Main bearings
Clevite Rod bearings
GM revised oil squiters
ZZP Valve springs
viton valve seals
Mr. B timing bolts
Spare Engine
Gen 3 block
Flywheel Bolts
CED head gasket kit
Level zero BS delete bushings
aem E85 fuel pump
CED deluxe timing kit
Balance shaft deletes
main girdle bolts
rear main seal
Break in oil

Tools:

piston ring filer
piston ring compressor
Valve spring compressor
dial indicator&magnetic base
2-3" outside micrometers
lapping compound
engine stand
dial bore gauge
valve lapping tool
piston ring pliers
plastigages
torque wrench angle gauge

Machine Work:

magnaflux crank
hot tank block
hone bores to pistons
balance rotating assembly
deck block and head


Its coming out to a little more than what I really wanna spend, but I'm hoping I can get some good deals at ZZP's black friday sale and hopefully buy some of the tools used. Besides that I'm not sure of any other ways to save money, think I just need to bite the bullet and spend the cash

 

Tools will add up, try to borrow if you can. I'm not saying this is right but the only special tool I bought was a ring compressor. At Harbor freight

 

I'm happy 2.2 internals are less for parts just as good. Now just to get the rest of the parts to turbo it in the first place. I should have the ZZP lines ordered soon, then I'll bring you the parts if you're still game to weld in the bung.

 

I was thinking about trying to borrow them from friends/my shop but I know this won't be the only engine I build so I think I might as well buy them. I will be hitting up HF for a few things tho lol.

And andrew yeah I wish my rods/pistons were as cheap as the 2.2's, hopefully ZZP comes thru on black friday. Did you talk to borg warner yet about your turbo? Or just gonna bolt it on and hope it works?

 

noor: plastigage. add to list lol.
also assembly lube
break in oil
calibrate torque wrench

lol

 

Sent it in and they fixed what they could for free. Said it was good to go without a noticeable performance loss with the slight damage to the compressor wheel. They buffed most imperfections out and if you didn't know I don't think you could tell.

 

John what assembly lube and break in oil do you recommend? I was thinking ARP / Brad Penn but wasn't sure yet.

And I guess for anyone knowledgeable in this: what break in method/routine do you recommend? both oil change cycles and treatment to the car

But I've a pretty nice craftsmen that they will calibrate for free anytime, so I'll have to remind myself to take that in sometime soon. And yes added plastigages

 

Oil change at 100 500 1000 3000
Start car and let it idle to temp and check for leaks. I let it sit for a day, did the same thing again. Then hook up hpt then go for a ride. Don't beat on it, but give it a few psi to seat the Rings.

 

This is off ZZP's website, think it would be a good idea to do this also?

When the engine is running, at light throttle, bring it up to 4500rpm, then coast down to near idle(still in gear), then 5000, then 5500, then 6000, and 6500 each time letting it coast down to idle. This will help seat the rings. Then after a couple heat cycles, start running it under power.


and nick did you use break in oil at 100 & 500 miles then regular above that?

 

I used shell rotilla oil the whole time. Lots of zinc. And you don't have to do that exactly. I did that basically, give it some gas and let it slow down in gear. Causes lots of vac that also helps seat rings. First time driving it I took it to 5psi. That's all I was comfortable with doing

 

picked up the gen 3 block today!

looks pretty clean, two questions after cleaning it up more tho:

there are no oil galley plugs to pull for oil feed for the turbo, am I missing something or do I need to tap into the block?

The hole for the starter is opened up and looks pretty rough, is this going to be a problem?

 

Not sure on either of those. Get some shop towels and wd40 and keep those cylinders lubed. On second thought wait till its machined to worry about that