noorj's turbo "build"
So I was having a KR issue up top on low timing (13*) found out it was the plugs!
NGK LTR6IX-1 #6509 only lasted about 2k miles

Anyone recommend another good 1 step colder plug for a E85 turbo 2.4?
A bunch of us used LFR6A-11 back in the day, mine lasted about 20k at ~250whp before gaps widened.They are copper, so cheap and gapable. Did not try with e85 though.
Last edited by mtbrent; Aug 14, 2013 at 11:14 PM. Reason: corrected mileage
Went to a bullshit 1/8 mile track last night just for some fun, it was wheel hoping real bad due to a control arm bushing that is absolutely shot. Ended up running 9.7 @ 81mph
Lets see here, Maven posted this on his web site.
2005-10 2.2/2.4 Stock : ILTR5B11, ILTR5C11, ILTR5E11 All of these plugs are virtually identical and interchangeable, its impossible to tell them apart visually except by part number, the "E" plug is most likely only available as an ACDelco unit from the dealer (LTR5IX-11 is a slightly less expensive but still Iridium stock plug)
One step colder: ILTR6B11 same plug as stock listings, just one step colder, this is the stock plug for almost every 2007-8 GM product with the 3.6 V6, as well as 2007 Ions with 2.2/2.4( a slightly less expensive but still iridium one step colder plug is the LTR6IX-11)
Two steps colderThe only acceptable NGK iridium in two steps colder is the LTR7IX-11
LNF stock: ILTR5D (same as 2.2/2.4 plug but pregapped at .035" instead of .043") ac delco 41-102 (12590701) superseded to 41-108
LNF 1step colder: ILTR6A-8G This is an expensive plug, but its the only acceptable NGK iridium plug that comes gapped in the proper range for the LNF. In a pinch you could use the same ILTR6B11 or LTR6IX-11 as the 2.2/2.4, but just know that you’ll have to gap them....something not desirable to do on an expensive IR plug
LNF 2 steps colder: LTR7IX-11 The only 2 step colder NGK IR plug, as above you’ll need to reduce the gap. Unless you’re making stupid power though a #6 at .031" will probably be fine anyway
2005-10 2.2/2.4 Stock : ILTR5B11, ILTR5C11, ILTR5E11 All of these plugs are virtually identical and interchangeable, its impossible to tell them apart visually except by part number, the "E" plug is most likely only available as an ACDelco unit from the dealer (LTR5IX-11 is a slightly less expensive but still Iridium stock plug)
One step colder: ILTR6B11 same plug as stock listings, just one step colder, this is the stock plug for almost every 2007-8 GM product with the 3.6 V6, as well as 2007 Ions with 2.2/2.4( a slightly less expensive but still iridium one step colder plug is the LTR6IX-11)
Two steps colderThe only acceptable NGK iridium in two steps colder is the LTR7IX-11
LNF stock: ILTR5D (same as 2.2/2.4 plug but pregapped at .035" instead of .043") ac delco 41-102 (12590701) superseded to 41-108
LNF 1step colder: ILTR6A-8G This is an expensive plug, but its the only acceptable NGK iridium plug that comes gapped in the proper range for the LNF. In a pinch you could use the same ILTR6B11 or LTR6IX-11 as the 2.2/2.4, but just know that you’ll have to gap them....something not desirable to do on an expensive IR plug
LNF 2 steps colder: LTR7IX-11 The only 2 step colder NGK IR plug, as above you’ll need to reduce the gap. Unless you’re making stupid power though a #6 at .031" will probably be fine anyway
Lets see here, Maven posted this on his web site.
2005-10 2.2/2.4 Stock : ILTR5B11, ILTR5C11, ILTR5E11 All of these plugs are virtually identical and interchangeable, its impossible to tell them apart visually except by part number, the "E" plug is most likely only available as an ACDelco unit from the dealer (LTR5IX-11 is a slightly less expensive but still Iridium stock plug)
One step colder: ILTR6B11 same plug as stock listings, just one step colder, this is the stock plug for almost every 2007-8 GM product with the 3.6 V6, as well as 2007 Ions with 2.2/2.4( a slightly less expensive but still iridium one step colder plug is the LTR6IX-11)
Two steps colderThe only acceptable NGK iridium in two steps colder is the LTR7IX-11
LNF stock: ILTR5D (same as 2.2/2.4 plug but pregapped at .035" instead of .043") ac delco 41-102 (12590701) superseded to 41-108
LNF 1step colder: ILTR6A-8G This is an expensive plug, but its the only acceptable NGK iridium plug that comes gapped in the proper range for the LNF. In a pinch you could use the same ILTR6B11 or LTR6IX-11 as the 2.2/2.4, but just know that youll have to gap them....something not desirable to do on an expensive IR plug
LNF 2 steps colder: LTR7IX-11 The only 2 step colder NGK IR plug, as above youll need to reduce the gap. Unless youre making stupid power though a #6 at .031" will probably be fine anyway
2005-10 2.2/2.4 Stock : ILTR5B11, ILTR5C11, ILTR5E11 All of these plugs are virtually identical and interchangeable, its impossible to tell them apart visually except by part number, the "E" plug is most likely only available as an ACDelco unit from the dealer (LTR5IX-11 is a slightly less expensive but still Iridium stock plug)
One step colder: ILTR6B11 same plug as stock listings, just one step colder, this is the stock plug for almost every 2007-8 GM product with the 3.6 V6, as well as 2007 Ions with 2.2/2.4( a slightly less expensive but still iridium one step colder plug is the LTR6IX-11)
Two steps colderThe only acceptable NGK iridium in two steps colder is the LTR7IX-11
LNF stock: ILTR5D (same as 2.2/2.4 plug but pregapped at .035" instead of .043") ac delco 41-102 (12590701) superseded to 41-108
LNF 1step colder: ILTR6A-8G This is an expensive plug, but its the only acceptable NGK iridium plug that comes gapped in the proper range for the LNF. In a pinch you could use the same ILTR6B11 or LTR6IX-11 as the 2.2/2.4, but just know that youll have to gap them....something not desirable to do on an expensive IR plug
LNF 2 steps colder: LTR7IX-11 The only 2 step colder NGK IR plug, as above youll need to reduce the gap. Unless youre making stupid power though a #6 at .031" will probably be fine anyway
Lol thanks man, would really like to get to a dyno soon. LMK if you have any questions when your buyin stuff
Wow thanks John! I think I might try the two steps colder LTR7IX-11. What site is this from? Just picked up a set of your spherical control arm bushings yesterday too. For install would I need a hydraulic press or could I just freeze them and use a manual hand press?
Wow thanks John! I think I might try the two steps colder LTR7IX-11. What site is this from? Just picked up a set of your spherical control arm bushings yesterday too. For install would I need a hydraulic press or could I just freeze them and use a manual hand press?
mavens web site is Gm sport compact.
as far as brands just stick with name brands that people have used before and proven work well.
pulled on an LQ4 swapped BMW 5 series tonight, it made 380whp. went into it almost certain I would get pulled on or stick within a car or two. vids will be coming tmo
Finally got internet at the house. Nice. Get used to pulling on a lot of cars you think would spank you. I can't wait to get back on e47. I had a guy in an ~08 M3 rev at me at a light a couple days ago. I had a car on him til about 70, but by 90 he pulled up and by at 100. If I were on e I would have pulled away the whole time. These RE11 tires allow me to dig so well, but gms1 sucks. I actually dig better with these tires on pavement than the stockers on a well prepped track. I'm gonna find my time slips from last year. I think your car is faster than gms1 cars(Solstice 5spd anyway).
K found it for my Solstice. This is gms1, cat-back with stock tires:
best of 9 runs - 8.964@80.71 - (1/4) 13.873@98.93
Clear rwd dig, but you'd reel it back in. It'd be fun to feel that car pull through 3rd and 4th. I bet the CAB upgrade will help a ton. I could move my control arm back and forth before I replaced the one that was shot in my hhr. When I took mine out the inner sleeve just fell right out of the bushing. Do yours have a cut out in rubber? Mine did in my '06 hhr. The replacements were solid rubber and it was easy to notice the extra stiffness not to mention it was nice to have the car track straight again.
K found it for my Solstice. This is gms1, cat-back with stock tires:
best of 9 runs - 8.964@80.71 - (1/4) 13.873@98.93
Clear rwd dig, but you'd reel it back in. It'd be fun to feel that car pull through 3rd and 4th. I bet the CAB upgrade will help a ton. I could move my control arm back and forth before I replaced the one that was shot in my hhr. When I took mine out the inner sleeve just fell right out of the bushing. Do yours have a cut out in rubber? Mine did in my '06 hhr. The replacements were solid rubber and it was easy to notice the extra stiffness not to mention it was nice to have the car track straight again.
Finally got internet at the house. Nice. Get used to pulling on a lot of cars you think would spank you. I can't wait to get back on e47. I had a guy in an ~08 M3 rev at me at a light a couple days ago. I had a car on him til about 70, but by 90 he pulled up and by at 100. If I were on e I would have pulled away the whole time. These RE11 tires allow me to dig so well, but gms1 sucks. I actually dig better with these tires on pavement than the stockers on a well prepped track. I'm gonna find my time slips from last year. I think your car is faster than gms1 cars(Solstice 5spd anyway).
K found it for my Solstice. This is gms1, cat-back with stock tires:
best of 9 runs - 8.964@80.71 - (1/4) 13.873@98.93
Clear rwd dig, but you'd reel it back in. It'd be fun to feel that car pull through 3rd and 4th. I bet the CAB upgrade will help a ton. I could move my control arm back and forth before I replaced the one that was shot in my hhr. When I took mine out the inner sleeve just fell right out of the bushing. Do yours have a cut out in rubber? Mine did in my '06 hhr. The replacements were solid rubber and it was easy to notice the extra stiffness not to mention it was nice to have the car track straight again.
K found it for my Solstice. This is gms1, cat-back with stock tires:
best of 9 runs - 8.964@80.71 - (1/4) 13.873@98.93
Clear rwd dig, but you'd reel it back in. It'd be fun to feel that car pull through 3rd and 4th. I bet the CAB upgrade will help a ton. I could move my control arm back and forth before I replaced the one that was shot in my hhr. When I took mine out the inner sleeve just fell right out of the bushing. Do yours have a cut out in rubber? Mine did in my '06 hhr. The replacements were solid rubber and it was easy to notice the extra stiffness not to mention it was nice to have the car track straight again.
It really is so crazy, it feels fast but I'm almost used to it and never having a "fast" car before it's hard to compare by just feel. I really was scared I would just get buses put on me, but the first run I thought "Holy **** I can pull on him" lol.
Pulling even only to 70 on a new M3 is awesome! especially only on gms1, on E you would have really hurt his feelings lol. That time is amazing for gms1 and such a low trap. You'll easily break into 12's I think with a good E tune and some good driving.
One of my stock ones is torn all the way around lol, the subframe bolt was a bitch to get out when I last did the clutch. I should have changed it then but really wanted Powell's and didn't know mine would be toast. Hopefully pulling the bolt out isn't horrible after the driving I've done on it, but IDK

Too bad your not closer man, I would love to take you for a spin sometime. If your ever in NY you know who to call
Sweet just watched the vid. You can tell as soon as you're spooled up cause you start pulling right back up. That snap from the V8 must make the BMW feel so quick. Thats why I liked the SC setup so much because it just felt cool, but waiting just a sec for good power is worth it.
When do you think you'll go back to the track?
I am going to try to get back in September to see if I can crack 12s. I do have an e47 log showing 0-100 in 12.5s so it'll be close. I think I'd only need to be hitting 105mph+ to do it since I have good tires. I'll be pretty disappointed though if I'm not closer to 110mph. We'll see.
When do you think you'll go back to the track?
I am going to try to get back in September to see if I can crack 12s. I do have an e47 log showing 0-100 in 12.5s so it'll be close. I think I'd only need to be hitting 105mph+ to do it since I have good tires. I'll be pretty disappointed though if I'm not closer to 110mph. We'll see.
Sweet just watched the vid. You can tell as soon as you're spooled up cause you start pulling right back up. That snap from the V8 must make the BMW feel so quick. Thats why I liked the SC setup so much because it just felt cool, but waiting just a sec for good power is worth it.
When do you think you'll go back to the track?
I am going to try to get back in September to see if I can crack 12s. I do have an e47 log showing 0-100 in 12.5s so it'll be close. I think I'd only need to be hitting 105mph+ to do it since I have good tires. I'll be pretty disappointed though if I'm not closer to 110mph. We'll see.
When do you think you'll go back to the track?
I am going to try to get back in September to see if I can crack 12s. I do have an e47 log showing 0-100 in 12.5s so it'll be close. I think I'd only need to be hitting 105mph+ to do it since I have good tires. I'll be pretty disappointed though if I'm not closer to 110mph. We'll see.
My powell spherical CAB's should be here today, and I really don't care for the 1/8 mile so next Friday is a test&tune at a 1/4 track kinda close to be I would really like to be at.
I have no doubt with some practice you'll be able to break 12's. If you logged that on the street imagine what you can do in a pit with some real traction. Do you NLS?
edit: ALMOST FORGOT! I think I finally figured out the cam tables
I went back to stock cam tables for this race and lost 4lb/min at 4500 and 3lb/min airflow up top!!! So my cam tables I made probably made around 20-25whp, pretty pumped about that.
Last edited by noorj; Aug 22, 2013 at 11:14 AM.
Back on e47, for good. Feels so awesome.
You still just staring at your new bushings or are they in your car?
Are you catless? I know its super ass loud NA/SC, but thinking it'd be pretty quiet in comparison with a turbo.
Trying new plugs ngk 3787(one step colder) today to see if that can help with occasional kr, cause this car can be so finicky.
Ok so I will wait on the maf relocate for now so I can get it right in the center since the ic diameter is smaller. I really want to get it done though so these logs look cleaner when going into boost. Thanks for getting back to me. I got tied up for the rest of the day.
You still just staring at your new bushings or are they in your car?
Are you catless? I know its super ass loud NA/SC, but thinking it'd be pretty quiet in comparison with a turbo.
Trying new plugs ngk 3787(one step colder) today to see if that can help with occasional kr, cause this car can be so finicky.
Ok so I will wait on the maf relocate for now so I can get it right in the center since the ic diameter is smaller. I really want to get it done though so these logs look cleaner when going into boost. Thanks for getting back to me. I got tied up for the rest of the day.
Back on e47, for good. Feels so awesome.
You still just staring at your new bushings or are they in your car?
Are you catless? I know its super ass loud NA/SC, but thinking it'd be pretty quiet in comparison with a turbo.
Trying new plugs ngk 3787(one step colder) today to see if that can help with occasional kr, cause this car can be so finicky.
Ok so I will wait on the maf relocate for now so I can get it right in the center since the ic diameter is smaller. I really want to get it done though so these logs look cleaner when going into boost. Thanks for getting back to me. I got tied up for the rest of the day.
You still just staring at your new bushings or are they in your car?
Are you catless? I know its super ass loud NA/SC, but thinking it'd be pretty quiet in comparison with a turbo.
Trying new plugs ngk 3787(one step colder) today to see if that can help with occasional kr, cause this car can be so finicky.
Ok so I will wait on the maf relocate for now so I can get it right in the center since the ic diameter is smaller. I really want to get it done though so these logs look cleaner when going into boost. Thanks for getting back to me. I got tied up for the rest of the day.
Still staring at them lol, I'm concerned about the subframe bolt that wouldn't get out of the control arm. Gonna try them tonight tho, ready with my hydraulic press and everything.
Yup I'm catless, love the smell. With the turbo and no cat it's quieter than the car with a highflow cat and same catback. It's amazing how much the turbo muffles it, I would def suggest catless.
Plugs def helped my KR issue, hope they do with yours too!
No problem man, good call on waiting!
finally got my powell spherical control arm bushings in! the old ones were so FUBAR it was crazy. going to an 1/8 mile track this week and hopefully getting on the rollers too
can't wait to see what is puts down, definitely hoping for 300+whp
here's a pic of the old bushing, it was like this in the car. didn't drive too great lol
can't wait to see what is puts down, definitely hoping for 300+whphere's a pic of the old bushing, it was like this in the car. didn't drive too great lol
finally got my powell spherical control arm bushings in! the old ones were so FUBAR it was crazy. going to an 1/8 mile track this week and hopefully getting on the rollers too
can't wait to see what is puts down, definitely hoping for 300+whp
here's a pic of the old bushing, it was like this in the car. didn't drive too great lol

can't wait to see what is puts down, definitely hoping for 300+whphere's a pic of the old bushing, it was like this in the car. didn't drive too great lol

LOL good eye jason.
That is the subframe bolt that was seized to the inner sleeve of the CAB. Had to get a little crazy with the sawzall and angle grinder, on top of that the castle nut in the frame could just rotate because the cage around it broke.
So your definitely right in saying it didn't come out very easily, and it wasn't very fun but at least its done!
That is the subframe bolt that was seized to the inner sleeve of the CAB. Had to get a little crazy with the sawzall and angle grinder, on top of that the castle nut in the frame could just rotate because the cage around it broke.
So your definitely right in saying it didn't come out very easily, and it wasn't very fun but at least its done!


