Uh oh... It's coming...
Not yet, but this winter I plan on doing the SS/TC FE5 swap with shocks, struts, springs, and sway bar. We'll see how that works and if I feel like I need a rear sway bar added to the mix.
I have no clue. Glen229 had a similar setup before and hit mid-high 250s whp with a manual transmission.
I have no clue. Glen229 had a similar setup before and hit mid-high 250s whp with a manual transmission.
Last edited by Illini_06SS; Oct 21, 2009 at 01:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Finally got around to uploading some videos and taking one of when the car was running right (sort of).
First one here is the first start up since putting on the M62. The high idle and big rev at the end is because the LS4 throttle body was sticking a little. Loosening the 4 TB bolts and repositioning the LS4 solved that problem. It also had a bad vacuum leak that made it shutter and idle like absolute crap

This second one was taken this evening. I torqued down all of my bolts again and the vacuum leak seems to have been fixed by that. Now I'm just running ridiculously rich and that (and the LS4 not being dialed in) is what is causing my unsteady idle. Pegging the wideband at 10.0 while at idle isn't the best thing, no? You can see that it dumped too much fuel into it when I goosed the throttle and I actually flooded the engine!

And here's one showing the very quick spike of boost that I get when juicing the throttle (before the Auto tranny nanny-mode kicks in at 4k rpms and closes the throttle body to prevent it from over-revving the torque converter).
First one here is the first start up since putting on the M62. The high idle and big rev at the end is because the LS4 throttle body was sticking a little. Loosening the 4 TB bolts and repositioning the LS4 solved that problem. It also had a bad vacuum leak that made it shutter and idle like absolute crap

This second one was taken this evening. I torqued down all of my bolts again and the vacuum leak seems to have been fixed by that. Now I'm just running ridiculously rich and that (and the LS4 not being dialed in) is what is causing my unsteady idle. Pegging the wideband at 10.0 while at idle isn't the best thing, no? You can see that it dumped too much fuel into it when I goosed the throttle and I actually flooded the engine!

And here's one showing the very quick spike of boost that I get when juicing the throttle (before the Auto tranny nanny-mode kicks in at 4k rpms and closes the throttle body to prevent it from over-revving the torque converter).
It's running! Still have some work to do on the tune, but god DAMN does it pull hard now! I'm lovin' it. It's going to be hard to keep my foot out of it 
The LS4 was incredibly easy to tune with! I think I'm the first LE5 to go for it and I love the throttle response. For future reference, an idle scalar of 4500 is what made my idle as smooth as butter with the LS4 TB.
The LS4 was incredibly easy to tune with! I think I'm the first LE5 to go for it and I love the throttle response. For future reference, an idle scalar of 4500 is what made my idle as smooth as butter with the LS4 TB.
Yeah I'm not staying into it long (a few seconds on each pull) and I don't plan on doing any more WOT pulls (wanted to get some vids to put up at the very least), but that's the part where I said that we have some work to do still...
do NOT even do short pulls like that. thats begging for a blown piston.
Not that I'm aware of :P
Yeah, I'm hoping the tuning crap gets solved soon...
Woohoo! Got the tune buttoned up this afternoon! The thing is fun as hell to drive and it's got some serious kick to it (and tons of torque steer FTL)!
Word to the wise, the reason I was still hitting high 14's on my AFR on those vids was because we forgot to disable the P0108 DTC which pretty much makes the computer go all Emo, hate life, and refuse to go into PE. Again, if you're going to use your stock MAP sensor, DISABLE DTC P0108!!! Also, why the F#CK are there 4 DIFFERENT DTC's FOR REMOVING THE SECOND O2 SENSOR?!?!?! Thank god I noticed the CEL flash up with the inactivity CEL before my tuner left... If anyone needs all 4 of those specific codes, I can get them for ya.
OK, time to go have some fun with the car now!
Oh, and an idle scalar of 4500 made my LS4 throttle body run SMOOTH AS BUTTER on my build! Am I the first one to try to put an LS4 TB on an M62'd LE5?
Word to the wise, the reason I was still hitting high 14's on my AFR on those vids was because we forgot to disable the P0108 DTC which pretty much makes the computer go all Emo, hate life, and refuse to go into PE. Again, if you're going to use your stock MAP sensor, DISABLE DTC P0108!!! Also, why the F#CK are there 4 DIFFERENT DTC's FOR REMOVING THE SECOND O2 SENSOR?!?!?! Thank god I noticed the CEL flash up with the inactivity CEL before my tuner left... If anyone needs all 4 of those specific codes, I can get them for ya.
OK, time to go have some fun with the car now!
Oh, and an idle scalar of 4500 made my LS4 throttle body run SMOOTH AS BUTTER on my build! Am I the first one to try to put an LS4 TB on an M62'd LE5?
I tried back when I did my install in april. But I couldn't get it to fit since the adapter plate made it stick out too much. I could of probably got it to fit without the adapter, but I'm fine with my ported lsj I guess.
This thing is a constant project. I'm probably going to have to rerun my IC cooling lines. I was under the car last night and noticed that the outlet tube from the IC pump was completely bent over on itself...
Had another CEL. Checked it out yesterday. Rear O2 sensor DTC #5... P2A01... 
Ended up doing some searching and there is a total of 8 DTC's that cover the rear O2 sensor... I'm going to be disabling ALL of them now.
Ended up doing some searching and there is a total of 8 DTC's that cover the rear O2 sensor... I'm going to be disabling ALL of them now.
Quick update:
I took the day off of work yesterday to relax a bit. Things have been hectic recently so I needed some time to just chill. I decided to replace all the ugly ass white/clear zip ties that I had used with black ones. It looks so much better now and it's not nearly as glaringly obvious that what's under the hood isn't completely stock.
One thing I did notice that was alarming was that my upper radiator hose was rubbing against the edge of the sheetmetal of my front clip/radiator support. It had worn through the braiding and was just starting to lightly mar the surface of the tube itself (thankfully there was no structural damage to the tube). It looks like this is another problem caused by the automatic Cobalts' engines being rotated forward slightly. My fix was to take ~6" of 1/2" ID hose, cut it open, and use it to cover the sharp edge of the sheet metal to prevent it from cutting into the radiator hose any further. The radiator hose itself provides enough pressure against the tube to keep it in place.
Anyone who is a supercharged Auto PLEASE take a look at this area closely to ensure that you aren't going to spring a coolant leak and if your upper radiator hose is damaged, replace it now.
I took the day off of work yesterday to relax a bit. Things have been hectic recently so I needed some time to just chill. I decided to replace all the ugly ass white/clear zip ties that I had used with black ones. It looks so much better now and it's not nearly as glaringly obvious that what's under the hood isn't completely stock.
One thing I did notice that was alarming was that my upper radiator hose was rubbing against the edge of the sheetmetal of my front clip/radiator support. It had worn through the braiding and was just starting to lightly mar the surface of the tube itself (thankfully there was no structural damage to the tube). It looks like this is another problem caused by the automatic Cobalts' engines being rotated forward slightly. My fix was to take ~6" of 1/2" ID hose, cut it open, and use it to cover the sharp edge of the sheet metal to prevent it from cutting into the radiator hose any further. The radiator hose itself provides enough pressure against the tube to keep it in place.
Anyone who is a supercharged Auto PLEASE take a look at this area closely to ensure that you aren't going to spring a coolant leak and if your upper radiator hose is damaged, replace it now.





