Uh oh... It's coming...
So how is the car running and doing so far now? How do you like the LS4 tb with the auto? How "touchy" is the throttle LOL? Did you do anything to the traction control in the tune?
Sorry for all the questions LOL. We will be doing this to our car that my fiance will be driving, a 2.4 auto 4dr as well
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Sorry for all the questions LOL. We will be doing this to our car that my fiance will be driving, a 2.4 auto 4dr as well
So how is the car running and doing so far now? How do you like the LS4 tb with the auto? How "touchy" is the throttle LOL? Did you do anything to the traction control in the tune?
Sorry for all the questions LOL. We will be doing this to our car that my fiance will be driving, a 2.4 auto 4dr as well
.
Sorry for all the questions LOL. We will be doing this to our car that my fiance will be driving, a 2.4 auto 4dr as well
So how is the car running and doing so far now?
It runs really well. One complaint I have is that we didn't tune the 4T45E enough and the engine likes to bog down if I have it in D and I give 30-50% throttle at 35-45 mph. The transmission will be in OD already and the engine just lugs through it (it still goes pretty well despite the terrible gearing of OD for acceleration at those speeds). I am planning on getting a B&M ShiftPlus before spring to try to shorten the shift times. The 4T45E in basically stock form is totally confused by the added power of the M62.
Outside of dialing in the transmission, the car is a blast to drive. There isn't much drone in the exhaust and the scream of the M62 is always fun to use to wake up soccer moms that are talking on their cell phones and going 10 under in the left lane.
How do you like the LS4 tb with the auto? How "touchy" is the throttle LOL?
I don't have much to compare the LS4 to. I haven't driven an LSJ, but the throttle on the LS4 doesn't seem overly sensitive to me (Personally, I LOVE the feel of the throttle now). That could be due to the fact that the torque converter does a good job of softening the harshness, so maybe the LS4 is ideal for the auto transmission guys? In any case, the more "touchy" the throttle the better for me since I plan on AutoX'ing the car and any improvement in throttle response equates to faster times around the course.
And that brings me to the next question...
Did you do anything to the traction control in the tune?
We didn't change the traction control. I still wanted the car to be street-drivable in both D and I. For AutoX, I use L exclusively and it already disables the traction control. I don't ever foresee being on an AutoX circuit that would require the car to get into 3rd gear (1:1 gearing, it'd be like the manual guys shifting in to 4th). If I ever decided to try my hand at road racing (only place that I'd see that happening0, I'd probably just scrap the Autotragic and find a decent car with a manual transmission to race instead.
Also, while the car can pretty much spin the tires through first and most of second, any more than a chirp into third is all but impossible, so using L to launch and then shifting into I once you redline 2nd would work fine for higher-speed runs.
Traction control isn't going to do ANYTHING to help you control tire spin on a launch in L and I fully anticipate looking like a redneck fool spinning my tire constantly my first few times out next spring because I won't know how to control the power on launch and coming out of turns.
Hope that answered everything! I'm always available to answer more questions in this thread or via PM.
Did you find any evidence of rubbing or was I just unlucky enough to be the only one?
Last edited by Illini_06SS; Dec 7, 2009 at 09:18 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Glad to hear its running good. What afr's are you seeing now and what pulley/boost you seeing? I forgot lol!!
Yeah I have our other car(2.4auto) tuned with HPT and the trans is tuned as well. I had the shift points changed, pressure increased, etc. I love the firmness of the shifts and helps alot with all the mods done to the car. Thats prob what helped the most with my times in the 1/4. Mine won't get into OD unless I get above 45mph. But once there, anything more then just under 1/2 throttle will make it down shift and the car won't feel sluggish at all. This eliminates that lug effect. I would actually do a tune over B&M. More precise fine tuned.
My LSJ isn't touchy at all on stock TB and my bud has the LS4 on his LSJ. I like the feel of the LS4, so just wondering how you like it on the auto. Seems like it works well for you and will prob do it on the 2.4 once we build her car. I just want the extra down low torque for the auto.
Yeah I didn't cange anything on the traction either on my 2.4. I still wanted it there just incase. It's nice to have. I also put it in "L" to launch the car. I personally think using traction control to launch your car hurts you times. My car has a lil spin on take off and def chirps the tires from 1st-2nd. I'm really excited to drive it with the s/c on. Right now full throttle down shifts from 2nd to 1st will spin the tires. With the s/c, I'm hoping for some good smoke lol
Oh yeah one thing I forgot to ask is if you are using an interceptor and if so what kinda trans temps you seeing?
Yeah I have our other car(2.4auto) tuned with HPT and the trans is tuned as well. I had the shift points changed, pressure increased, etc. I love the firmness of the shifts and helps alot with all the mods done to the car. Thats prob what helped the most with my times in the 1/4. Mine won't get into OD unless I get above 45mph. But once there, anything more then just under 1/2 throttle will make it down shift and the car won't feel sluggish at all. This eliminates that lug effect. I would actually do a tune over B&M. More precise fine tuned.
My LSJ isn't touchy at all on stock TB and my bud has the LS4 on his LSJ. I like the feel of the LS4, so just wondering how you like it on the auto. Seems like it works well for you and will prob do it on the 2.4 once we build her car. I just want the extra down low torque for the auto.
Yeah I didn't cange anything on the traction either on my 2.4. I still wanted it there just incase. It's nice to have. I also put it in "L" to launch the car. I personally think using traction control to launch your car hurts you times. My car has a lil spin on take off and def chirps the tires from 1st-2nd. I'm really excited to drive it with the s/c on. Right now full throttle down shifts from 2nd to 1st will spin the tires. With the s/c, I'm hoping for some good smoke lol
Oh yeah one thing I forgot to ask is if you are using an interceptor and if so what kinda trans temps you seeing?
I don't have an interceptor, but being that it's the winter I'm not too worried about trans temps. I'm getting a Kiwi WiFi ODBII reader for x-mas and coupling that with the Rev app on my iPhone I'll have all of the capabilities of an Interceptor so I can monitor all that fun stuff while I'm racing.
I see 11.4-11.7 AFR's at WOT and 12 psi on a 3" pulley.
I don't have an interceptor, but being that it's the winter I'm not too worried about trans temps. I'm getting a Kiwi WiFi ODBII reader for x-mas and coupling that with the Rev app on my iPhone I'll have all of the capabilities of an Interceptor so I can monitor all that fun stuff while I'm racing.
I don't have an interceptor, but being that it's the winter I'm not too worried about trans temps. I'm getting a Kiwi WiFi ODBII reader for x-mas and coupling that with the Rev app on my iPhone I'll have all of the capabilities of an Interceptor so I can monitor all that fun stuff while I'm racing.
One thing I did notice that was alarming was that my upper radiator hose was rubbing against the edge of the sheetmetal of my front clip/radiator support. It had worn through the braiding and was just starting to lightly mar the surface of the tube itself (thankfully there was no structural damage to the tube). It looks like this is another problem caused by the automatic Cobalts' engines being rotated forward slightly. My fix was to take ~6" of 1/2" ID hose, cut it open, and use it to cover the sharp edge of the sheet metal to prevent it from cutting into the radiator hose any further. The radiator hose itself provides enough pressure against the tube to keep it in place.
Anyone who is a supercharged Auto PLEASE take a look at this area closely to ensure that you aren't going to spring a coolant leak and if your upper radiator hose is damaged, replace it now.
Figured I would do a quick update...
I installed my auxiliary transmission cooler last night in preparation for this weekend. Saturday I am attending an AutoX School being held by my local SCCA chapter (Champaign County Sports Car Club) and I'm looking forward to seeing what the new setup can do. I wanted to install the cooler before the first serious bit of driving to keep my transmission happy.
Unfortunately, my OTTP Hardcore rear bar and Pedder Springs are going to be arriving sometime next week so I won't have my suspension sorted out for the school. Once everything arrives, I will be installing them along with my SS/TC shocks/struts/front swaybar and getting a 4-wheel alignment. I'm still trying to figure out what specs I want it aligned to as I don't want to go too aggressive since the Cobalt is still my DD.
The first AutoX that I'm available to attend is looking to be May 1, so hopefully everything is going to be installed and ready to go by that time...
I installed my auxiliary transmission cooler last night in preparation for this weekend. Saturday I am attending an AutoX School being held by my local SCCA chapter (Champaign County Sports Car Club) and I'm looking forward to seeing what the new setup can do. I wanted to install the cooler before the first serious bit of driving to keep my transmission happy.
Unfortunately, my OTTP Hardcore rear bar and Pedder Springs are going to be arriving sometime next week so I won't have my suspension sorted out for the school. Once everything arrives, I will be installing them along with my SS/TC shocks/struts/front swaybar and getting a 4-wheel alignment. I'm still trying to figure out what specs I want it aligned to as I don't want to go too aggressive since the Cobalt is still my DD.
The first AutoX that I'm available to attend is looking to be May 1, so hopefully everything is going to be installed and ready to go by that time...
idk what u mean by too aggressive unless ur getting coil overs the only adj u have is front toe the only way u could adj front camber is if u drilled out the strut bolts and put in camber bolts there will be no adj for caster the only way to adj rear toe on these car's is the shim the wheel bearing with a shim kit
idk what u mean by too aggressive unless ur getting coil overs the only adj u have is front toe the only way u could adj front camber is if u drilled out the strut bolts and put in camber bolts there will be no adj for caster the only way to adj rear toe on these car's is the shim the wheel bearing with a shim kit
im a tech i do prolly 2-5 alignments a day and ive never seen a tech acually adj front camber on those im sure u can by loosining the strut bolts and pushing the strut in a tightenting it so if u take it some where make sure u tell them what u want done otherwise 9-10 times they wont adjust it alot of alignment techs just look a illustrated adjustments up in the computer and dont acually understand what there really adjusting
im a tech i do prolly 2-5 alignments a day and ive never seen a tech acually adj front camber on those im sure u can by loosining the strut bolts and pushing the strut in a tightenting it so if u take it some where make sure u tell them what u want done otherwise 9-10 times they wont adjust it alot of alignment techs just look a illustrated adjustments up in the computer and dont acually understand what there really adjusting
just good info to pass along when thinking about lowering your car....my altima is roughly 2.5"-3" off the ground.....i busted my transmission pan 3 times before i finally fabbed up a guard for it...
its really not that hard to get a lowerd car on the rack u just use two pieces of wood we do alot of alignments for shitty as shops out here that slam the **** outa civic's tacoma's **** like that
do you know the requirements to be an "alignment dude"? you gotta pass a drug test....
i know i used to do it....until i didnt pass that drug test anymore lol that was many years ago though
i know i used to do it....until i didnt pass that drug test anymore lol that was many years ago though
Acually to work for a company that's acually good that offers a 12 month 12,000 mile warrenty u have to be ase certified in steering and suspension 4 years min experience and a associates degree hense why I get paid 25$ flat rate


