All of the ecotec's can "pump out" over 1,000 hp. Most of the parts the 2.2 upgrades to in the book, are standard in the 2.0.

 

How is the weight better than the 2.0? Last I checked, they're about the same?
For you guys that are talking about just putting on a turbo kit, it's not going to be as easy as you think. You'll have to upgrade pistons and rods, also maybe other stuff in the engine. Then you're going to have to upgrade the transmission as well, since the stock one isn't made to handle the extra power. In all honesty, you're probably looking at almost ~$6K to do it right, and then you're still around the same power as a stage 2 S/C SS, that still has a warranty. Doesn't make much sense to me.

 

now im just guessin, but if you keep the psi to no higher you will not have to upgrade your pistons the pistons on the 2.4 are also oil suirted?

 

Bad06ss nailed it though, you might as well wait to your warrenty is up before doing this, as for me I turboed my last two cars, I like this one the way it is with my cat and intake all I will do know is a tune and a long tube header. oh yeah a nice hood and skirts when I see some(do not like the existing ones)

 

I'd probably step up to the 2.4 after I got rid of the Ion. Although I was eyeballin that comp package when it first came out.

Not sure if I'd get the SS/SC though if I could afford it...I'd probably look for the best bang for the buck and end up with an SRT-4.

 

Well, in the build book, I think it mentions that the pistons and rods are the same as the 2.2, and need to be replaced. Even if you were careful and didn't hurt anything in the engine right away, you're still going to have to upgrade the transmission because it won't hold a whole lot more than stock. Even if it was $5K, and you ran on the stock engine, you're still only as fast as a stage 2 2.0, and you lost your warranty. What's the point?

 

I test drove both the 2.4 and 2.0 very vigorously. I even owned the 2.2. While the 2.2 was in for some work I decided to take a look around. I test drove the 2.4, the 2.0 w/o LSD and the 2.0 w/ LSD and after about an hour and a half I just couldn't justify spending the extra money on the 2.0 if this car was going to be the "grocery getter" of the family. Of course I wanted something a little more than my base 2.2 w/ hub caps as this would be my daily driver but I will still save the "spirited" driving for the GTO. I guess the GTO ruined it for me as the cobalt's just can't compare on ANY level with them stock for stock so I asked myself the "is it really necessary" question and to be honest.....nope I liked my little chromies and subtle interior. Obviously owning a 2.4 cobalt and GTO i'm not into cars that scream LOOK AT ME...I'll stick to the 2.4 because it had certain things the 2.0 just couldn't offer me.

 

Pretty sure we have forged rods. Some people like to build it while others like to buy it. Quit being a negative nancy

 

I can for sure understand that. If I already had a GTO, I wouldn't need the 2.0 either.

 

Only the 2.0 gets forged rods, last I checked. The only real differences between the 2.2 and the 2.4 are the displacement, and the VVT. Everything else is pretty much the same. I have no problems with people wanting to "build it", I just don't understand why you would spend so much more money to get to a certain level than a 2.0. For example, say your goal is 250whp, or mid-high 13's. You spend roughly 5-6K making sure you do everything right, it's tuned, and your setup is complete. You've reached your goal, but you could've spent $700.00 in a S/C 2.0 and been there. To each his own, but I'm just being truthful, not "negative".

 

What's so wrong with the transmission? I keep hearing this over and over but what is so wrong with it? I'm assuming it's a Getrag transmission...it can handle power. Maybe I'm missing something.

 

Technically all our pistons are forged...but the 2.0s are "supposidley" rated higher, that's all.

Also, if you were to have a 2.0 SS/SC, that's probably a higher insurance rate you would have to pay. Also, I'd rather spend $5,000 over time out of my pocket than put that money towards a company that adds interest on top of it.

 

Well the GM release docs differ then because they say:

From the GM media docs;
http://media.gm.com/us/powertrain/en...06_PWT_LE5.pdf

C70 material forged steel connecting rods
the block's bulkheads (where the main bearing caps attach) were enlarged for added strength
Approximately 2.5 pounds (1 kg) of mass was added to these and other critical areas of the cylinder block structure.
water-jacket is deeper into the block for added cooling
block-mounted oil cooler is included
cylinder head casting is by a semi-permanent mold process to achieve higher strength


As far as the tranny goes, I thinks its unproven power levels but it is a reinforced Getrag unit. So it should be more stout than the base unit 5 speed which has no problems north of 250hp. So conservatively 300 + hp tranny is very possible.

Therefore, 2.0 SS/SC supercharger bolting on to the 2.4 is VERY possible and probably rather cheaply done. Vector can do the ECM they are very familiar with the 2.4 ECM and boost.

We did this very same route with building the first STI Subaru Foresters. A few of us began by switching the Forester ECUs, turbo, and Intercoolers with the STI units. Direct bolt on 300+ hp. May be not as easy here only because of the ECM but Vector could lick that easy.

 

It's the same transmission as the 2.2 liter. The automatic and the Getrag are not as strong as the transmission in the 2.0. If I remembered what the exact limit was, I'd tell you. But it's not made for very much more power than stock, and if you left it stock and did a turbo swap, it's a ticking time bomb.

 

No offense but how can you say that a transmission is bad when you don't even know what type of transmission is in them?

 

No, they're not forged. The 2.0's pistons are "hardened". But yes, they are stronger than the 2.2 and 2.4's. Insurance shouldn't be any higher, and Cobalt SS is a Cobalt SS to them. In fact, my insurance just says "cobalt" and it works.

 

"Therefore, 2.0 SS/SC supercharger bolting on to the 2.4 is VERY possible and probably rather cheaply done. Vector can do the ECM they are very familiar with the 2.4 ECM and boost." - GTP

Is this accurate?

 

Actually you're right...my mistake. They are cast.

 

Not sure about the ECM thing but other than that, yes.

 

Damn My insurance says "Cobalt SS Supercharged" and i pay more for my insurance per month than some ppl pay for rent.

 

I emailed Chris at Vector..he said it shouldn't be a problem.

 

That link didn't pull up anything??? Most of what you described there is about the block. The block itself is extremely strong no matter which ecotec you have. The transmission is the same getrag and will not support 300hp, sorry. I'll map this out for you guys:

Forged pistons ~$700.00
Intercooled Turbo Kit ~$3500.00-$4000.00
Basic Beefed up tranny components (+stronger clutch if manual) ~$1500.00
Tuning ~$200 for a custom, or $500 for HP Tuners
Wideband ~$300 depending on brand, have to have to be safe on the tune
Aeroforce or scanner ~$240.00 have to have to know what's going on
Labor in case you can't do all of the above ~$1800+


That's over 8K TO DO IT THE RIGHT WAY. Anything less than what's above is risky. To have it tuned and running properly, this is what you're looking at. You CAN do a supercharger from a 2.0 and it be cheaper, but again-what's the point? If anyone is considering making their 2.4 run alot faster than stock or run 13's-SHOULD'VE GOT THE 2.0 IN THE FIRST PLACE, BOTTOM LINE! The 2.4 cars were not designed to be that fast, that's why they made the 2.0's! Anything more than intake, header, exhaust, pulley, and tuning, and you're risking alot. The couple thousand you'll spend to make it reliably fast, you've could've spent less just buying the 2.0, and taking off the wing if that's you're issue.

 

Mine just says "cobalt", and it's never been an issue. For a 2005 Grand Prix and a 2006 S/C SS, I pay $160/month, full coverage.

 

Link works for me..but here is what it says.

"The new block for the 2.4L VVT has a bore diameter of 88 mm and stroke of 98 mm, versus the 2.2-liter’s 86 mm bore and 94.6 mm stroke. These increases, multiplied by four cylinders, yield a total displacement of 2,384 cubic centimeters versus the original 2.2-liter’s 2,189 cubic centimeters.

To obtain the longer stroke of the 2.4L VVT, the nodular iron crankshaft features a different geometry that accommodates the unique connecting rods also needed for the displacement increase. The 2.4 VVT (LE5) uses C70 material forged steel connecting rods that are shorter than those used for the 2.2L (L61). To accommodate the additional power, the block's bulkheads (where the main bearing
caps attach) were enlarged for added strength.

Approximately 2.5 pounds (1 kg) of mass was added to these and other critical areas of the cylinder block structure. The water-jacket is deeper into the block for added cooling. A block-mounted oil cooler is included to ensure proper lubricant cooling that promotes long engine life. Pistons also receive a polymer coating on the skirt for two purposes: NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) reduction and reduced reciprocating friction. The cylinder head casting is by a semi-permanent mold process to achieve higher strength requirements. To compensate for the larger pistons and the longer crankshaft throws, the twin balance shafts have additional off-axis weight added to balance the reciprocating mass of the engine. In addition, the harmonic balancer on the end of the crankshaft is also tuned to balance the torsional vibrations due to increased reciprocating mass.
Targeted oil jets cool pistons

The Ecotec 2.4 VVT utilizes larger diameter pistons, which are cooled and lubricated by targeted oil jets that keep the underside of the piston cool, along with the cylinder wall continuously splashed with oil."

 

With the exceptions of the forged rods, everything else just relates to larger displacement, like I said. Notice in my pricing that I DIDN'T INCLUDE RODS? Exactly.