nice write up and info...i will be using this this weekend to do my springs.

 

subd

 

great thread bro but i am having the worst time getting the two bolts that are on the front strut tower man, how in the world did you get those bastard's off man. please i lowerd the back and it looks great but the front is still waiting. please ideas

 

Hey guys just searching around, wondering how much of the bump stop i should cut off when install Megan Springs on a 2.2 LS? Also, i was under the impression there were no bumpstops in the front bump these pics show him cutting the white bump stop, that looks to be in the front...?

 

Im sure I can google this but why is it necessary to cut the bumpstop?

 

because when you hit a big bump that cause the suspension to dip it smacks the bumpstop hard because the suspension has less travel area, and if your not paying attention, smashes your forehead into the sunvisor.... I must cut my bumpstops asap.

 

ok gotcha thanks

 

This is my first time every doing this, is it something I shouldn't do? I'm trying to install my pedders. I installed my own intake, bov, chargepipe, catch can, gauges, TWM shifter and I do my own spark plugs.

Is this something out of my skill level? I imagine it'll take me a long time since I don't have power or pneumatic tools.

 

I used this, this past weekend and the only trouble I had was I couldn't get the top blot of the struts off luckily my friends dad had some self hold vice grips. And the rear bump stops were sorta've a pain to get out. BUT AN AWESOME HOW-TO

 

Pretty straight forward then. I should be able to do it with a friend then?

 

DO NOT cut your bump stops. That is a bogus deal for lowering springs. Ugh. Coil overs all bets are off however.

If you want to argue, take away the bump stop. Now you have metal to metal. Hows your head now?

coils bind and shocks/struts go to limit first however.Thats why there are bump stops. The generic information from Eibach is not correct for Cobalt.

When installing Pedders on an Avalanche however, it is required to both cut the bumpstops and install a shorter shock travel adjuster rod.

different vehicle, specific instructions. Cobalt? dont cut the bump stops with lowering springs.

 

What if they're already cut

 

i guess you will be the tester to see how long your shocks last.

 

Yeah me and my INEXPERIENCED friend knocked the back ones out in about 3 huors(I had an issue getting one of the bolt back in but in the end it worked ha), he had to go do something so the next day I took it over to my GF's house and me and her dad did the front also in about 3 hours.



And I didn't cut my bump stops.....

 

It's funny you say that, because I'm pretty sure my shocks are one their way out! It's making a distinct creaking noise when I go over bumps.

So the answer to this everyone is about 10,000 miles of good shock life

Don't cut!

 

Does anyone know the bumbstop part number. The guy at my dealership is stupid and said you can't cut bumpstops unless you cut the springs. I'm trying to replace my cut ones. Or what aftermarket bump stops will work from like an autozone or something.

 

Yes, I'm bumping a 5 year old thread....

This "How To" was very helpful when I was installing my springs, and I wanted to added some additional information to it instead of making a whole new thread.

See bold red font for additional information on page 1.

I will re-open the thread once I'm finished editing it.

 

Re-opened

See my additions to this thread (text in red) found on page 1/post 1.

This thread may be old, but was very helpful.

I added some good info including bolt sizes, torque specs, and helpful tips.

 

John Powell posted a how to change your front springs without the necessity of a spring compressor somewhere around here.

 

Yes, I have his info.

I will post that next. He sent it to me in an e-mail. See below.

As per John Powell:

the nuts for the sway bar end links and the strut to knuckle are 18 mm socket heads
the top spring plate tab MUST be oriented at 12 o clock when looking at the strut, with the strut to knuckle bolts at 6 o'clock.
If installing springs with Powel spherical cabs in the arms, remove the trailing cab bolt to allow the arm to pivot more to remove the strut easily.

loosen the top strut nut before you jack the car up. (21 mm socket)

If you dont have a spring compressor, put a jack under the control arm, remove the top strut nut entirely and lower the assembly to release tension on the spring, then remove strut. replace in opposite order using the jack.

Most of the info I added to this thread John mentioned in his e-mail to me, but he also added how to remove the springs w/o spring compressors.

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/6610342-post143.html

 

Good stuff.

 

I'll be using it as soon as my YYZ get here

 

i need some serious help, one of my strut shaft bolt (21mm)is not losening up, it just keeps turning the shock....what do i need to do in order to stop the shock from spinning and allow it to losen up?

 

The top nut? Best to loosen that while the struts still bolted to the knuckle otherwise the shaft will spin freely