2.4 LSJ Swap. NEED INFO
So my LE5/LSJ hybrid has been in my car for around 10,000km's now, and has a few hundred 1/4 mile passes on it.
Surprise! My trigger wheel is set up exactly as above (with a slightly better mounting of the sensor) and guess what?!?!?!?
It runs FLAWLESS!
Guess I was right afterall.
Sincerely,
The only guy with a running LE5 swap in his car, that isn't ZZP.
Surprise! My trigger wheel is set up exactly as above (with a slightly better mounting of the sensor) and guess what?!?!?!?
It runs FLAWLESS!
Guess I was right afterall.
Sincerely,
The only guy with a running LE5 swap in his car, that isn't ZZP.
Link don't work.
I'll rephrase then, the only one on here with a running LE5 swap.
All I'm saying is if you use your head to find solutions instead of problems, this swap is very easy like I said in my first post before everyone jumped all over me.
I'll rephrase then, the only one on here with a running LE5 swap.
All I'm saying is if you use your head to find solutions instead of problems, this swap is very easy like I said in my first post before everyone jumped all over me.
Link works now, read through the thread.
And I'm not going to rephrase, I am the only person with a RUNNING LE5 swap.
Hopefully he can fix his no-start/no RPM signal issues.
And I'm not going to rephrase, I am the only person with a RUNNING LE5 swap.
Hopefully he can fix his no-start/no RPM signal issues.
Did he put the LSJ crank into it? I read something that alluded to that.
Hopefully he can get it running.
If its an LSJ crank in a LE5 block then I wouldn't really call that an LE5 swap.
Hopefully he can get it running.
If its an LSJ crank in a LE5 block then I wouldn't really call that an LE5 swap.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-12-07
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 1
From: Columbus, Ohio
I am putting that motor together. it has the following :
ZZP LE5 girdled block
LSJ crank
Eagle L61 4340 forged steel rods
Custom order Diamond pistons (10.5:1 CR)
P&P LSJ head
ZZP Stage 2 Supercharged cams
ZZP 82# valvesprings
ATI Damper
Level Zero balance shaft delete kit
TVS 1320
2.7/2.9" pulley
I am having issues with it starting. The motor will turn over just fine, but not fire. A few people have pointed to the crank sensor. ZZP included a 3.15 mm spacer (shim) when I picked up the block. I don't know if this is where the problem is or not, but that's what I'm looking into.
ZZP LE5 girdled block
LSJ crank
Eagle L61 4340 forged steel rods
Custom order Diamond pistons (10.5:1 CR)
P&P LSJ head
ZZP Stage 2 Supercharged cams
ZZP 82# valvesprings
ATI Damper
Level Zero balance shaft delete kit
TVS 1320
2.7/2.9" pulley
I am having issues with it starting. The motor will turn over just fine, but not fire. A few people have pointed to the crank sensor. ZZP included a 3.15 mm spacer (shim) when I picked up the block. I don't know if this is where the problem is or not, but that's what I'm looking into.
That is a cool build, that would make it a 2.1L ?
The spacer could be the issue, the closer the sensor is to the wheel the better the reading, since its works on magnetic fields.
I don't recall the exact measurement, but I looked this up when I was putting mine together with the external wheel, the OEM spacing is very tight, 2mm or so, so I have mine set that close.
Is the hole in the LE5 block for the CPS in the same spot as the LSJ?
This is why the external wheel is even easier, it doesn't rely on the fact that everything is in the same place between both platforms. You just clock it to were it needs to be and your done.
Is the motor getting fuel and spark? I would imagine even if there was a CPS issue the motor should still at least try and fire and stumble.
The only way I can see it not fire is if the CPS signal is so bad, the ECU isn't firing either the injectors or the coils.
I'd start there, and work your way backwards.
The spacer could be the issue, the closer the sensor is to the wheel the better the reading, since its works on magnetic fields.
I don't recall the exact measurement, but I looked this up when I was putting mine together with the external wheel, the OEM spacing is very tight, 2mm or so, so I have mine set that close.
Is the hole in the LE5 block for the CPS in the same spot as the LSJ?
This is why the external wheel is even easier, it doesn't rely on the fact that everything is in the same place between both platforms. You just clock it to were it needs to be and your done.
Is the motor getting fuel and spark? I would imagine even if there was a CPS issue the motor should still at least try and fire and stumble.
The only way I can see it not fire is if the CPS signal is so bad, the ECU isn't firing either the injectors or the coils.
I'd start there, and work your way backwards.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-12-07
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 1
From: Columbus, Ohio
That is a cool build, that would make it a 2.1L ?
The spacer could be the issue, the closer the sensor is to the wheel the better the reading, since its works on magnetic fields.
I don't recall the exact measurement, but I looked this up when I was putting mine together with the external wheel, the OEM spacing is very tight, 2mm or so, so I have mine set that close.
Is the hole in the LE5 block for the CPS in the same spot as the LSJ?
This is why the external wheel is even easier, it doesn't rely on the fact that everything is in the same place between both platforms. You just clock it to were it needs to be and your done.
Is the motor getting fuel and spark? I would imagine even if there was a CPS issue the motor should still at least try and fire and stumble.
The only way I can see it not fire is if the CPS signal is so bad, the ECU isn't firing either the injectors or the coils.
I'd start there, and work your way backwards.
The spacer could be the issue, the closer the sensor is to the wheel the better the reading, since its works on magnetic fields.
I don't recall the exact measurement, but I looked this up when I was putting mine together with the external wheel, the OEM spacing is very tight, 2mm or so, so I have mine set that close.
Is the hole in the LE5 block for the CPS in the same spot as the LSJ?
This is why the external wheel is even easier, it doesn't rely on the fact that everything is in the same place between both platforms. You just clock it to were it needs to be and your done.
Is the motor getting fuel and spark? I would imagine even if there was a CPS issue the motor should still at least try and fire and stumble.
The only way I can see it not fire is if the CPS signal is so bad, the ECU isn't firing either the injectors or the coils.
I'd start there, and work your way backwards.
The hole for the crank sensor is in the same location as the LSJ. The motor is getting fuel and spark, which is why I'm baffled that it's not firing. The RPMS are showing up on HPT scanner and the max RPM is around 150-175.
I'm going to try it without the shim behind the crank sensor, see if that does anything.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-12-07
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 1
From: Columbus, Ohio
Custom order from Diamond set up for Eagle L61 rods (5.765")
88mm/3.465" piston bore
20mm wrist pin (included with order)
Total Seal Gapless Top Ring Set
Total came to around $750 shipped.
88mm/3.465" piston bore
20mm wrist pin (included with order)
Total Seal Gapless Top Ring Set
Total came to around $750 shipped.
reluctor ring timing
aparantly you cant read so ill repost it for you
The crank ring is off by 12 deg (difference between LE5 and LSJ). You would need to replace the ring on the LE5 crank with the LSJ ring."the start and stop points for the ring are not the same and then once you swap the rings you have to open up the lsj ring so the sensor will read
The crank ring is off by 12 deg (difference between LE5 and LSJ). You would need to replace the ring on the LE5 crank with the LSJ ring."the start and stop points for the ring are not the same and then once you swap the rings you have to open up the lsj ring so the sensor will read
Some urgent info needed on this 12 degree timing difference. Is the timing offset of the LE5 crank advanced or retarded compared to a std LSJ?
And what is meant here with "opening up" the LSJ ring? Is that about distance between sensor and ring circumference?
Any info on the 58-2 crank timing of the later 2,2 LAP engines?? I suspect they use the same offset as they have pretty similar ECM's (E37 vs E67ecm)
Thxs
Then what does ZZP do to make a 2.4 stroker lsj I was it under there forged block
Found my info. This was actually for a Z22YH crank, which is the European direct injection 2,2 Ecotec: Measured offset 1st-tooth-after-gap = 118 degrees BTDC.
I measured 119 degrees for my LSJ engine, so we can call this identical.
(small deviations due to from where on the tooth is measured...)
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