Ok, with chances of embarrassing myself with my awesome paintbrush skills, I am a bit confused as to where the t goes. I have read lots of threads so I am pretty sure I have the right concept, just not sure if the extra reservoir gets hot or cold coolant, you would think hot though.


Updated Picture on Post #30

 

i need to know this too. ive had my Cobra H/E for a couple months and never installed it yet because im confused aswell haha

 

Well, the Cobra H/E is separate anyway. my understanding of the option B setup is that the T goes into the stock resivior location, which would be the hot side, Diagram A that you have.

 

Numder 2 the 1st one is wrong! you have 2 out ports on the endplate>>> Them get tied together with 1 T then a short piece of Hose & the other T<<< From that T 1 goes to the reservoir & the other goes to Pump in! Then Pump out goes to H/E In>>> Then H/E Out goes to endplate center Port! Dont forget to Change your laminova's, Been running it awhile Now works Great!

 

Question for you Bill, and anyone else running the Option B setup - what evidence do you have that it actually does anything? I noticed a difference with the dual-pass, but the option B seems very unnecessary to me, unless you are unable to bleed the system yourself, which was not a problem for me.

 

Where does the line all the way on the left go, from the reservoir? Also, is there a brass fitting on the stock heat exchanger?

Also, just from a thermal standpoint, I think option B would be better as you don't want hot water to sent to the surge tank. Then again I am taking a portion of this from water cooling computers.

Regards,

Ryan

 

The line off the bottle to the left is the overflow, and you have to pull out the stock plug in the top of the stock H/E and replace it with a 1/8 npt to 3/8" hose barb fitting. I have done this setup, but I disabled it due to it not bleeding well and have gone back to option A until I have time to screw with it. Thats why I ask if anyone has any proof of it being beneficial at all. I know we can get IAT2 logs for a dual-pass, we know that does something, but I doubt any meaningful difference will be seen from option B

 

Is there any chance you can draw out what you explained? I associate pictures well! And your paint drawings really are good, for paint!

Regards,

Ryan

 

What part is confusing to you? The plug/fitting thing? Look to the left of your hood latch on the top of the H/E. That little nut comes out and the adapter goes back in, then plugs into the lines for the bottle as shown. Not much to draw out.

 

If we run the same amount & the engine is Hot >>>> You will have more Heat soak than I do simply because when fluid gets hot( ie: water antifreeze it creates more airbubbles which is why Option b has a exspansion Chamber to bleed off the air that has built up! Plus it increases fluid amouts which takes more time to heat soak! Air is the biggest killer of our systems & that Little neck has no room to let it out!
This is just simple Thermal Dynamics!

You have a 1/4 line that comes off the top of the Stock H/E & goes to the 1/4 inlet on the reservoir & the 3/4 Line goes from the resevoir to the last T!

 

Once properly bled, the little neck fucntions fine, but it can take weeks of letting it drop and adding a small amount of fluid until it stabilizes.

The thing is, I know the theory behind it, which is what you said, but I want to know if anyone can actually show proof/evidence/facts that Option B does anything. I know you don't drive your car as hard as I do, and the only time you should theoretically see a difference is in a road-race or endurance event where the car sees full boost all the time for extended periods, but even then the extra quart or so won't help any more than anything else, just delay the temp rise for a few more seconds if working as designed. That is the fundamental problem I have with Option B, I doubt that it does anything worthwhile for a street car. I hope someone comes in and proves me wrong, but I don't see it happening.

 

Plan & Simple you drive in rush hour with a Moded car you should be running option B, I dont think you will find any that did a study with both & logged it on HP Tuners & GM Must Know it works they just gave you the cheap way & the right way as Options it anit that hard to understand! That little neck isn't even close to giving you enough room & when I drive my car I drive hard! Any1 running 2.9 or lower should be running this system to benefit fully! They made it to go with stage 2 & UP My car Never gets above outside air & the More fluid you run like that the Longer it gets to Cool can't see why you would question that Longer exsposed the More it cools! Plus I didn't increase a Quart I increased a Gallon & a Half Big benefit!

 

You know a quarter inch in water cooling a computer is big! lol Thanks for the information though!

Regards,

Ryan

 

Well, you have a custom resivior, so you are a special case. 99% of people will not have that advantage. As fas as sitting in traffic, no. It doesn't matter, as the car doesn't create objectionable heat at idle, there is no pressure in the manifold to heat up the intercooler cores. Yes, the car will be hot due to a lack of airflow, but you won't get a heat-soak condition in the H/E system. It does nothing for exposure times, so I am not sure what you are saying there, I would be willing to bet that no-one could log a difference in two identical cars in identical conditions. Of course, that will never happen, so who knows, but when it comes down to common sense mechanics, I can't see the benefit in real world use. Like I said, if I get it hooked up and it bleeds itself well, I'll run it because it can't hurt and it looks nice to have the second coolant tank, adds symmetry to the engine bay. I do not expect to gain anything useful from it though, unlike the dual-pass.

Thanks for the odd reference??

 

here is what I have. I don't think it follows other diagrams, but it seemed to fit better.

 

if im not mistaken arent both of these setups wrong? the pump should be pumping into the h/e right and then the cold coolant flows into the middle one and then through the cores and then comes out the top and bottom, gets set up to the top of the motor where the t meets the line with the 2nd bottle and back to the pump? or am i mistaken?

 

You are correct! For option B to work properly you must push the flow into the HE from the pump. This will force out "bleed" any air. I found this out the hard way!

 

ok, lets see if i got that right

 

yeah thats how it goes, someone correct me if im wrong

 

Yes!

 

after doing option B and upgrading the intercooler pump, i'm not just bleeding air, i'm getting a constant stream coming out of the 1/4" hose into my reservior. I'm not sure its good, but it means that there is some decent flow from the reservior, and with option B you can throw a bunch of ice in the reservior before going out to the track and keep temps lower longer.

 

subscribing , have been waiting for someone to do a diagram +1 for good diagram

 

I am not sold on either. I think there is a better way if you bleed the top witht he bleeder then the rad is good. I thinkg the tank should be inline. the tank should be used as a way to increase capacity and then system would be less prone to heat sink.

otherwise it has to be option A IMO

 

The Feed Lines to the H/E need to be swapped in this Pic, You want to run into the Stock H/E then to the Cobra H/E Then back out to the Center Port of the Endplate! The Pump is inline before the H/E, Then when coming out of the Last H/E it goes directly into the center Port!
Another words out of the endplate into the Pump>>> Then out of the Pump to the stock H/E>>> Then out of the Stock H/E into the Cobra H/E>>> Then out of the Cobra H/E into the Center Port of the Enplate! Other than That the Diagram is Pretty close!

 

OOPS I didnt look at that closely after working 16Hrs and being up till 2:00 in the morning. good call. I totally agree with this routing.