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Dual Pass Opt B with Cobra Heat Exchanger Help

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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 12:18 PM
  #26  
BlilBT's Avatar
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From: Ft Lauderdale
Originally Posted by ssnipes
OOPS I didnt look at that closely after working 16Hrs and being up till 2:00 in the morning. good call. I totally agree with this routing.
No Problem, Just trying to help! I like to use the stock H/E 1st just because it has the Fans to help cool it down & then send it threw the added H/E, In my case I'm running a Dual Pass after the stock H/E so in effect I'm running a Triple pass system!
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 12:22 PM
  #27  
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lol theres so much swapping going on. I would be afraid to use this
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 12:25 PM
  #28  
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From: Ft Lauderdale
Originally Posted by JCswoosher2
lol theres so much swapping going on. I would be afraid to use this
It anit that Bad, Just let me Know when you go to do it & I will make you a diagram of the way it should run!
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Old Sep 22, 2007 | 03:53 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BlilBT
No Problem, Just trying to help! I like to use the stock H/E 1st just because it has the Fans to help cool it down & then send it threw the added H/E, In my case I'm running a Dual Pass after the stock H/E so in effect I'm running a Triple pass system!
The stock HE is two pass also.

Pierre
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 01:28 AM
  #30  
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From: Canada
Originally Posted by BlilBT
The Feed Lines to the H/E need to be swapped in this Pic, You want to run into the Stock H/E then to the Cobra H/E Then back out to the Center Port of the Endplate! The Pump is inline before the H/E, Then when coming out of the Last H/E it goes directly into the center Port!
Another words out of the endplate into the Pump>>> Then out of the Pump to the stock H/E>>> Then out of the Stock H/E into the Cobra H/E>>> Then out of the Cobra H/E into the Center Port of the Enplate! Other than That the Diagram is Pretty close!
damn it, i knew that too, ah well here ya go lol

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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 08:43 AM
  #31  
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From: Slippery Rock, PA
Originally Posted by JMAc88
damn it, i knew that too, ah well here ya go lol

So is my set up wrong somehow. If you take the hoses in the pictures going to pump in in the above pictures those connect to my after cooler as a return. Then the HE hoses connect to pump in. Basically swapped. I still see ok temps, but you are saying it would be better? Right now I see 86 ait1 96-106 ait2, so only +10-20. It seems to be working. I used to see 126-146.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 08:46 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by liolixli
So is my set up wrong somehow. If you take the hoses in the pictures going to pump in in the above pictures those connect to my after cooler as a return. Then the HE hoses connect to pump in. Basically swapped. I still see ok temps, but you are saying it would be better? Right now I see 86 ait1 96-106 ait2, so only +10-20. It seems to be working. I used to see 126-146.
wow, i never see +10-20 IAT2, its always 20+ at the least (when my car is fully warmed up). Do you have a second H/E?
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 08:54 PM
  #33  
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From: Slippery Rock, PA
My car makes no sense honestly. It was running cool like I said. It also had a steady A/F after I installed it (for 2-300 miles). Now, it is back to spuradic A/F and 160 AIT2 @ +100 from AIT1. I am about to give up on this car.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 09:06 PM
  #34  
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From: Michigan
well, after i installed my dual pass and sat in traffic on hot days, i still got up to 160 IAT2s. I think an upgrade in aftercooler pump helps a lot to keep things cool. Do you still have the hose routed differently?


After installing my new pump, i saw temps drop quicker, and with a second H/E and dual pass it keeps the flow going through much faster for efficient cooling. I still have yet to get the second H/E
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 09:32 PM
  #35  
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From: Slippery Rock, PA
I didn't mount the HE yet, I just wanted to get it running since I needed it for work. Yeah I still have the different routing. I just don't get how it goes from running cool for 2 days... like it was 55 out the other morning. i turn it on to 53 degree AIT. It was 65 this morning. I turn it on to 90 ait2. I leave the car sit today and it is 120 AIT2 when I start it after like 3-4 hours. It makes no sense. It isn't even cool at start today.
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Old Sep 23, 2007 | 09:50 PM
  #36  
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well, i found it takes a lot of hours for the AIT2's to settle before you turn it on after sitting because the engine heat conducts into the manifold and there is no coolant circulating or air moving to keep anything cool. But, IAT2 should drop quite a bit after the car is turned on and driven for a couple miles. I wouldn't worry about how cold it is at start though.
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 08:55 PM
  #37  
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I have made a key purchase today. An HE and another pump. I have other items to buy to maximize cooling and increase capacity. I hope to have capacity of 3 liters (0.8 us gallon) and a ton of cooling. this is a winter project. views of it will be released when done and unfortunately we will have to wait till next year for summer time results. -30F is not going to give any real ideal of success of this thing. LOL. till then Stage 5 intercooler project will be revealled.

sorry for Hijacking
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 09:04 PM
  #38  
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From: Van Nuys
Im actually thinking of getting a bigger and better Radiator. And gonna try to upgrade the LFP DUAL PASS that i have with a bigger res
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 09:38 PM
  #39  
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imo i dont think an upgraded radiator would be nessecary. the grand am cup cobalt ran ith the stock unit and of course was running wot quite a bit of the time so im not sure it'll be need on a street car. just my $.02
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 01:15 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by redd214
imo i dont think an upgraded radiator would be nessecary. the grand am cup cobalt ran ith the stock unit and of course was running wot quite a bit of the time so im not sure it'll be need on a street car. just my $.02
reading in the build book, they say that they swapped out the original single pass intercooler radiator for a dual pass griffin Grand Am Cup Build Book
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 09:43 AM
  #41  
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i saw that but i believe they are referring to the aftercooler for the s/c and not the actual engine radiator

If u look at the phase 5 build book they specify that they used the stock radiator:http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer..._car_build.pdf
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 10:04 AM
  #42  
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From: Ft Lauderdale
Read it again,
Directly from Page>>> GM worked with Griffen radiators to develope a BETTER Aftercooler Fluid Radiator for use on the Grand Am Cobalts. This radiator is Mounted in front of the Engine Coolant Radiator and REPLACES the CURRENT Aftercooler Radiator & the A/C Condensor. This Radiator(ie: Aftercooler)is designed for the serious enthusiasts that will allow the car to be operated at a High power output for Extended periods of time!

Meaning they replaced the stock H/E (Aftercooler) with a custom made 1!
The engine coolant radiator plays no part in Intake Cooling!
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 03:45 PM
  #43  
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I know everyone sort of branched off and started new converations on this thread, but does anyone have a diagram of a CA heat exchanger install, without dual pass at all?.....(I will be upgrading to dual pass soon but really want to install the heat exchanger now.....please help.......

bump

Last edited by lnf08ecotec; Oct 29, 2007 at 03:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 04:05 PM
  #44  
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i was thinking does my stock water pump for the aftercoolers, have enough power to run the coolant through these lines?
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 07:34 PM
  #45  
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From: Ft Lauderdale
Originally Posted by Coblt ss super
i was thinking does my stock water pump for the aftercoolers, have enough power to run the coolant through these lines?
Yes it does>>> but some day think of upgrading, But it has no problem with it &the water temps that are ging thru it with the added fluid is cooler!
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 07:36 PM
  #46  
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ok so i need a final diagram on how to install this because im doing it this weekend
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 08:12 PM
  #47  
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BlilBT...help please I bought the CA heat exchanger can you tell me or show a diagram of how to hook it up without dual pass.....

bump...

Last edited by lnf08ecotec; Oct 29, 2007 at 08:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 09:45 PM
  #48  
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From: Ft Lauderdale
Originally Posted by lsj06ecotec
BlilBT...help please I bought the CA heat exchanger can you tell me or show a diagram of how to hook it up without dual pass.....

bump...

It's simple just take off the out line on the stock H/E & Hook it up to the in on the 2 H/E>>> Then out of the 2nd H/E to the in line of the Intercooler. Which will be the Line you took off the out line of the stock H/E. If you still are not sure look at the Pump & it is Mark In & Out then just follow the Lines!
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 03:17 PM
  #49  
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I dont understand why you couldnt just start the damn car up with the bleeder on top of the stock HE open? I mean as soon as coolant starts to come out you have no more air in there...?

Also, couldnt you make it so that your stock coolant resivoir feeds both your car's cooling system and the intercoolers? I dont think this would be that hard. It would really only take 2 T's to do it. Then you can just fill up the resivoir and both would be self filling and self bleeding....

Last edited by lewisb13; Nov 5, 2007 at 03:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 10:08 PM
  #50  
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the problem with that is your coolant temp runs around 200*f. if your intercooler has 200*f coolant running through it you would actualy heat up the charge air instead of cooling it down. from what ive read, charge temps are between 120-140*f, so the coolant in the intercooler system id guess would be less than 100*f on average.
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