Oh hahaha

Let the haters hate, fuction > form.

 

Why? Because Racecar.



Install this weekend.

 

You know. That bumper material gets cut pretty easy by a brand new razor blade. I had to notch my front bumper to clear my heat exchanger tonight.

 

I am not trying to be an *ss or anything but I just have to ask.

13.3 is a very respectable time with your modifications. But with any FI power adder you could easily be in the low 12s. Is that something you are considering for the future or do you plan on staying NA?

 

haha no worries I get asked that all the time.

No plans to go forced induction....it could very easily toss on a turbo and probably get it into the low 12's high 11's but its not something I really want to do.

I have nothing else planed for this car aside from maybe some more aggressive cams next year...but I would like to move on to another platform...not sure if I will keep this car or sell it.

My goal was to be the first one to run 12's in a all-motor J-body...so if I can accomplish that or even just get into the 12's (there is a bit of race for the 12's all-motor right now in the j-body community) at all I'll be happy with what this car has accomplished.


I really wanna build a S13 240, L33 swapped (5.3 "HO" GM V8 aluminum block) track car...I would like to get into competitive road course racing and I've always wanted a GM V8 swapped Jap car.

 

Thanks! That was my go-to solution for this as well, dremel always makes a mess of plastic.

 

 

Yo do kill the blade. It may take 2 blades per one of those holes. But they're cheap, so dont be afraid to just swap out a blade.

 

I have a good knife for this job

 

I'll be at Matts tonight working on this...Rye is on the house.

 

sounds like a pretty sick build!

 

Always sick builds in Ontario

 

Because RACECAR!

 

Should have got 4 of those bad bitches

2 for top 2 for bottom

RACECAR!!!!

 

thanks to your link, I just finished reading through all ten pages to which only a gif would seem appropriate;



This has to be the most serious n/a Ecotec build I've seen - and so few in this group seem to look past bolt on's or tune...

I know an older guy running 11's in his two Quad4 cars (I think he's in Illinois) - but he's even admitted that they're not so streetable ~ which is in large part to running cams over 230 advertised duration...

Can you please enlighten me as to what that head is supposed to flow at your max cam lift?
(since max flow at higher lift than this engine would see is kinda pointless)

What the advertised duration of your cams?
(if you posted it I must have missed)

My Grand Am is currently running 226/410 cams - and it's my belief that Quad4 cars cannot run a cam with more lift than 410 without chancing lifter issues (of which I have experienced with my 224/430 cams);
lifter issues = grenading
(I just don't know where to get hooked up with a bucket and taller valves (stems) to replace my OE hydraulic lifters (aka: cam followers))

Was the trigger wheel required because the keyway for the LE5 crank is different than the L61?

Don't get me wrong, I like the Cobalt SS's ~ and I love my SS;
It's my opinion that a mean n/a car has character in spades where a boosted car can be very understated... (but getting higher HP numbers is much easier in a boosted car)

 

Hahaha thanks, the all-motor scene is a bit bigger over on J-Body.org, their are a couple guys doing pretty serious set-ups, since the Cobalt is a factory boosted car people I guess can't look past the idea that "boost is better".

These are the numbers for my head (with the exception that my exhaust side flows a bit more than this, peak CFM around 215@.500

intake......

.050"- 68.1cfm
.100"- 107.4 cfm
.150"- 143.3 cfm
.200"- 186.4 cfm
.250"- 226.1 cfm
.300"- 251.7 cfm
.350"- 273.3 cfm
.400"- 284.1 cfm
.450"- 293.0 cfm
.500"- 299.1 cfm

exhaust......... percentage of exhaust to intake at given lifts.......

.050"- 53.0 cfm 77.8%
.100"- 88.4 cfm 82.3%
.150"-124.0 cfm 86.5%
.200"- 154.4 cfm 82.8%
.250"- 175.2 cfm 77.5%
.300"- 189.7 cfm 75.4%
.350"- 198.1 cfm 72.5%
.400"- 202.5 cfm 71.3%
.450"- 205.8 cfm 70.2%
.500"- 208.2 cfm 69.6%



As for my cams, they are off the shelf Comp Stage 2 NA Grind.
INT:

D:258* L:0.440" (Duration at 0.050" is 216*)

EXH:

D:262* L:0.436" (Duration at 0.050" is 218*)

LSA: 111


If everything goes well for next year, my new cams should be in the +310* advertised duration range, with the lift nearing the .500"

I had to run the external wheel because the trigger wheel for the crank sensor on a LE5 is like 60-2, and a J-Body had 6+1. Silly GM built the wheel right into the crank, so that was the only way around buying a standalone, or somehow running a cobalt ECM.

Those cams your have in your HO the W41 cams? Or are they the Crane or Rocket Parts cams?


Its a wicked fun car, catches everyone off guard.

Here is a little video of it bullying some dude in a C6 around, yes I still lost, beat him accross the 1/8 trap tho

Quick Sunfire vs Corvette - YouTube

 

Keep it up bro, best of luck on the build and at the track. Hoping you reach your goal.

 

Thanks, didn't quite make it this year, but I only really had half a season with it by the time I finished it.

It WILL run 12's in 2012, if it requires me gutting the whole car out, then so be it...hahaha

 

I don't go to j-body.org much, because there seems to be alot of douche-baggary over there...

The more serious Quad4/Twin Cam guys post on Quad4forums anyways...

And even though I've seen more people actually opening up their engines there, I also see alot of the ecotec crowd talking down the twin cam crowd there too...


^^ As a comparison, I placed the measured flow of a stock Q4 head that I am running beside yours in bold...

You're inspiring me to actually do some port work...

I also think your header looks better than mine - mine is parallel with the bottom of the car - but hangs pretty low... your's looks to be tucked up better.

I also like your exhaust cutout deal...
I was thinking of doing some thing similar;
I have a 2.5" exhaust on my car that I don't believe chokes it up any - I actually took the GA off the road for about a year during which I picked at making my new exhaust - but it is still louder than I'd prefer;
I was thinking of using one of those cutout solenoids and cutting a (oh lets say) single 1-3/4" or two smaller holes in the butterfly;
then with the solenoid in the "closed" position, it would act as a restriction on the exhaust - hopefully toning it down even further

Those are similar in size to what I'm running;
mine are the Rocketparts "cheater" cams - never offered through Rocketparts, but designed by them for the factory backed racers - for the racing series they had to retain stock lift ~ which these do;
HO cams: 212 degrees duration (@ .050") / .410" lift / (unknown centerline)
W41 cams: 219 degrees duration (@ .050") / .410" lift / 108 lobe centerline
HG2: 224 degrees duration (@ .050") / .430" lift / 112 lobe centerline (known as HG@ or 'Hot Grind #2'; most common aftermarket cam around for the Quad4)
226: 226 degrees duration (@ .050") / .410" lift / 114 lobe centerline

Yeah GM likes to do that...
I tell ya, it sure doesn't make one's life easy ~ I have a lightweight crank here that someone got a bit carried away lightening... I either have to re-cut the keyway and find an appropriate length CPS, or run a trigger wheel if I want to use this crank

I don't doubt it catches people off gaurd!

you can see in the video where the 'vette hits his real powerband and starts moving...

I have beat many "faster" cars, but I also have imposed on myself to keep the car 100% streetable, and appearing 100% stock (aside from visual cues like a W41 IDI cover)... so I've got a bit more of an uphill battle...
To date the best I've pulled is a DA corrected 14.4 @ 93.7mph

I'm also running what I believe to be a 100% stock, high mile shortblock...
I have plans to update it with an 11:1 beefed up shortblock... but as is often the case in life, time and funds fall short of where you want them

Can you tell me your opinion of the Quaif limited slip?

In that video it looked like it took a bit for the drivers side tire to start spinning...

I am currently running a Getrag282 c/w 3.94:1 FDR & an EP limited slip;
the first time I took the car to the track with the EP - it was great... but since that run, I haven't noticed both tires smoking... lame-sauce.
I'd like to find a decent priced Torsen to use with my 282 - but they are getting pretty rare these days ~ and I was consider swapping in a late Twin Cam F23 c/w Quaife...
If I need it, I already have the shifter assembly hanging in my garage...

 

The Quaife diff is awesome.

Both wheels start spinning at the same time, I think the driver side just had a bit more water on it, so it took a little longer to start making some smoke.

Diff was worth every penny.

Its more of a road race diff than a drag racing one, but it hasn't given me any trouble what so ever.

You can always just "lincoln lock" yours if it doesn't see much street time, my buddy did it in his 2 Gen Cav it he drove that thing everywhere. Aside from parking lots you would never even know it had a welded diff.

 

Man the Sunfire/Cav is an ugly monster. GM finally gets a nice car in the Cobalt (minus the sedan) and they had to kill it. Nice mods though.

 

ok?

 

Did you have Kevin tune your car?

 

No, I tuned it myself.

He will be tuning it next year once I get new cams, that is if we are talking about the same Kevin...lol

 

SSKev i would assume he is talking about

Same guy that tuned my Balt

Mine will need a retune we will cruise together