I know there are tons of people that has replaced pistons. Soooo.....What has everyone gapped their rings to? I gapped mine at .026=top and .023=bottom. I had Diamond 10.0:1 at the time. Now that I'm rebuilding my engine I want to make sure the ring sizes are right. I have all the tools to do the job but..... I can't find any solid guide for ring gap sizes.

BTW what is the stack gap size

 

Bill, these are straight from the manual:

Top compression ring end gap 0.20 - 0.40mm (0.0060 - 0.015in)
Second compression ring end gap 0.35 - 0.55mm (0.0137 - 0.0216in)
Oil ring end gap 0.25 - 0.76mm (0.0098 - 0.029in)

 

Thanks,

What is a good guideline for me to use for my build?

 

bump for curiousity. also im looking into doing internals along with a head would you recomend keeping the stock compression of 9.5 or going up to the 10.0 pros and cons of both would be great. i would really like to hear from either one of you since i know both of you are currently doing builds

 

i used the weisco specs that came with it.

 

Depends on what your looking for, future plans, current set-up, and most of all support.

When you put your new pistons in....you didn't have you block honed? If you did.....pre-gapped rings are useless.

 

Alright I just got off the phone with Diamond....they recommend .020 Top and .022 Bottom gaps.

Equasion is:
0.060 X Bore Size(in)

Hopefully this info helps someone else out too

 

and .015 oiler rings

 

Bringing this back from the dead to get more input from anyone that has swapped pistons.

Diamond recommended to me a .016 top gap and a .018 second ring gap. I myself was going to use a .018 and a .020.

 

Guess nobody gapped rings when they did piston swaps eh?

 

going to soon... saving for later...ill include what i get

 

i went with the diamond f/i specs on the card that came with the total seal rings...

 

I hear people talking about ring gapping but no one mentioning that Diamond has very specific honing requirements for using their pistons. These requirements are given when you buy their pistons.
The shop doing the DD rebuild had to call Diamond tech dept to get them and hand honing does not fall within their specifications.

 

Rod, what are these requirements? I see nothing specifying these inside my piston box.

 

when i called em and told em i was doing a "hand honing" they recommended against it cause the mi my car was at and recommended a platue brush with a six stroke on low setting of the drill... it simply removes any glazing that can be present due to oil burn-off...

i had 18xxx mi on my block...

my leakdown and compression number are real real tight... i have heard from witt when guys just slap the pistons in without honing or nothing, then they can get excessive crank case pressure and will sometimes blow out the dip stick...




using plateue brush/honing brush 400 grit replicate cross hatching







inspect old piston for possible sale.



after 5 min of begging let your immature buddy draw **** and dicks on them ruining all chances of sale












this is the brush i used you can pick it up at goodson.com

 

My sleeves only have about 3,000 miles on them but I was still going to rehone them using a flexhone tool and drill.

I searched goodson.com for that tool, couldn't find it. Possibly have a link?

 

yeah if i were you i would not hone just use the brush it worked great... and you have less chance of taking off any material.

http://goodson.com/store/template/pr...a3cad3e14088e7