Congrats dude, hopefully the timing is perfect.

 

subd

 

There are no codes that I saw last night. So that leads me to think that the cams are timed since I am not getting a cam/crank correlation code. Anyone else think that? Or could it still be off and no throw the code?

 

Im pretty sure it would throw the code. When i timed my old 2.2 i got a code almost instantly for cam correlation. It was off one tooth.

 

That is what I thought, that is what happened the first time. I let it run last night for about 30 seconds and nothing. Now I just have to change vac lines button up the random stuff not connected and tune it. Then I get to drive it. I cant wait. Its been too long.

 

Way back in 06 or 07 a guy I knew with an LSJ had it running like **** no cell just would not run well. It turned out that he was 1 or 2 links off on his camgears because he put new cams in. I sugested it to him at first and he swore that it was not the case a month later he told me I was right.

 

Well I guess we will see. I didnt give it eenough time to go into closed loop or run for that matter. I am going to see if I can get it to work. If not then I will time it again. This time with the cover off.

 

The intake cam could still be off, there's no sensor on that one. Most likely it's just tuning though for idle surge, or a vac leak as you mentioned.

 

Yah. I will figure it out. Timing should be spot on but who knows! lol

Is the idle control in the TB? Will that throw a code if it is going bad?

 

The TB does IAC control, but a lot of it is timing and fuel injector controlled as well. If there's a MAF problem it will idle like crap.

 

ok cool. Maf is not terrible. When it was jumpy like that it was only +2 on the MAF cells. I did up my timing at idle to see if that helps, but have not loaded the tune to see.

Update: Vacuum lines did not change the idle. Still jumpy. Ran it for about 4 minutes and no codes. The timing still seems off. It is running at -1 degree advance at idle. Vacuum was jumping from -8 to -10.

So far in the tune I corrected the MAF to now be at 0 and -1, change the idle timing which it doesnt seem to get there.. What else do I need to change? I am lost if it has to do with the cams.

 

Well I drove the car around today. Idle was still a little jumpy. Clutch felt good. I need to fix a leak in the intercooler/heat exchanger piping cuz the IATs are very high. I need to tune this thing some more. I am going to change the injector tables to see if I can calm the idle a little. Other than that it runs good.

 

how are those cams? any vids?

 

My idle is still hunting. Someone is saying richen the idle up but I am unsure how to do this. Any input? I tune but IDK where in the program adds fuel for idle. I see it in OL but not closed. Doesnt closed loop read off o2 signals?

My exhaust has a different sound when it is driving. Probably combo from mild port and the cams. Sounds pretty good. once I am able to WOT I will hear the exhaust more to better judge. I can go WOT once I know I fixed the leak in the intercooler/HE hoses.

 

richen/add to

the first two maf cells its a band aid i know of. but really i dont know what your cams are doing.

 

I am going to change to a stock tb. Then try some more tuning. I had a lot of help tuning troubleshooting. Made it a good night. bet my neighbors hate me.lol Have it narrowed to a specific area in the tune. Trying to get the thing to idle like its supposed to is another story. It loves -5 degrees of timing.

 

I drove the car to work today. The thing felt good, except the funny idle. The car wanted to get up and move! I am currently searching for a stock TB so I can test to see if its the LS4. I am going to do that when I get home. Then do some more cam tuning. Hope all goes well with the TB hunt.

 

anytime my car ever saw -timing is when my timing was off. granted the idle timing will hunt between 0-10* but it never goes negative.

 

Well I re timed it the other week. I cant see it being off but anything could happen with this car. lol. Last night we got it to run on 5-15 degrees but after a minute it started to sputter and was bogging at 500 rpm. Had to kill it.

So how far off was the timing? A tooth?

 

A word of advice, don't be in a hurry to get on the throttle or to even see boost for the first 500 miles. A rebuilt engine is not the same as a factory built engine and the breakin period should be different as well. Following this procedure has been a good thing for my DD unlike the previous 2 rebuilt engines.

 

yeah, 1 tooth on the crank. it was when i did a headgasket and didnt remove the side cover. the chain fell down far enough to move over one link but up top it looked fine. pulled the front cover and sure enough it was off.

 

Well I put on a stock TB, took it off my friends cobalt ss, idk if its from the cams or what but we were playing around with the tune last night and got it to go from -5 to +10 thru the idle. It sounded sweet!

Now at the end of the tune we got it to run at a really good idle, sounded cammed, and then at 3 minutes the car starts to surge/hunting. Weird thing is the trims are pretty bad when its running right i am talking -5 to -15 . Then about a 30 seconds before the idle starts to get shitty the trims go from -3 to +3 and when the idle is shitty they stay there. It is very weird.

So if I give it a little rev of the engine it falls below idle then goes to the good idle for about 10-15 seconds. Then get shitty again.. Weird car. I think I am going to time it one more time.

Here is a video (just for sound) of the idle.

http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p...ent=cammed.flv

 

sounds great man, glad everything is working out

 

Yah I have a little further to go. Its awesome to have some good help in areas that I was unfamiliar with. I really appreciate all the comments and help I have gotten thus far.

 

Is the computer taking control before and after the car warms up? Are they trying to adjust the cams thinking is stock?