Official Retrofit Thread
Joined: 05-18-11
Posts: 39,564
Likes: 87
From: West Chicago, IL
for sure dude... i texted you 
send me a pic, from what i remember those were pretty badass looking and i'd love to have em, provided they don't leak and the lenses are holding up
send me a pic, from what i remember those were pretty badass looking and i'd love to have em, provided they don't leak and the lenses are holding up
Joined: 05-18-11
Posts: 39,564
Likes: 87
From: West Chicago, IL
OK my retros are up for grabs
please ignore the stupid panjo bullshit and pm me to work out a deal.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/part...o-ship-302495/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/part...o-ship-302495/
runs 50% wattage. Wiring them to your side markers is the same thing as wiring them to your foglights.
I was basically trying to figure out if anyone has done a switch system or something, so I could turn them on and off when needed
The DRL fuse slot actually runs at full voltage. So I'm using a fuse tap to have it power a relay so it can run my XBALED halos I have inside my Apollo 2.0 Flat shrouds on my EvoX-Rs. Then you stick a diode in the bottom fuse slot of the fuse tap to keep the halos on with your low beams.
Alright guys I need some insight:
My driver's side retrofit has been a nightmare ever since I've installed them. It's getting A LOT of water leaking inside of it. Water is literally pooling inside it overtime to the point where if the light isn't installed in the car you can pick it up and move the water around inside. It also fogs to the point where it pretty much covers the whole inside of the glass. Three times I've tried to fix it now:
I opened it up by taking the rubber backing off for a few days and made sure there was no water in it still when I installed it. The first I put a layer of waterproof silicone around the seal for extra sealing purposes. Installed it back in the car and the fog came back quickly.
The next time I tried the same process and I also resealed where the wire comes out for the highbeam solenoid. Still no luck.
The final time I've taken them out to try and fix this I picked up the headlight and with the water inside ran the water inside a full 360 degrees around the seal to see if any water would come out... it didn't. So I noticed that the rubber backing for the bulb spot thingy is quite dirty, especially compared to my stockers which were in the car for years. Also I noticed that that rubber backing will not by any means fit that space snugly. I tried using my OEM rubber backing and to no avail, the same thing happened where it wouldn't fit in properly. It seems like it isn't the rubber part's fault itself, but the space where the rubber backing goes is deformed or something and refuses to fit no matter how you try and get it in there.
I'm at a point where I THINK the water is getting in where the bulb is... but could that much water really be getting in there? Has anybody else ever encountered this problem before?
Any insight would be much appreciated- I'm sick and tired of the car looking the way it does with the headlight so fogged up. Also, due to constant water accumulation and drying out, a noticeable amount of dirt is starting to get inside the light which is also very frustrating... I'll post up some pictures tomorrow when it's daylight.
My driver's side retrofit has been a nightmare ever since I've installed them. It's getting A LOT of water leaking inside of it. Water is literally pooling inside it overtime to the point where if the light isn't installed in the car you can pick it up and move the water around inside. It also fogs to the point where it pretty much covers the whole inside of the glass. Three times I've tried to fix it now:
I opened it up by taking the rubber backing off for a few days and made sure there was no water in it still when I installed it. The first I put a layer of waterproof silicone around the seal for extra sealing purposes. Installed it back in the car and the fog came back quickly.
The next time I tried the same process and I also resealed where the wire comes out for the highbeam solenoid. Still no luck.
The final time I've taken them out to try and fix this I picked up the headlight and with the water inside ran the water inside a full 360 degrees around the seal to see if any water would come out... it didn't. So I noticed that the rubber backing for the bulb spot thingy is quite dirty, especially compared to my stockers which were in the car for years. Also I noticed that that rubber backing will not by any means fit that space snugly. I tried using my OEM rubber backing and to no avail, the same thing happened where it wouldn't fit in properly. It seems like it isn't the rubber part's fault itself, but the space where the rubber backing goes is deformed or something and refuses to fit no matter how you try and get it in there.
I'm at a point where I THINK the water is getting in where the bulb is... but could that much water really be getting in there? Has anybody else ever encountered this problem before?
Any insight would be much appreciated- I'm sick and tired of the car looking the way it does with the headlight so fogged up. Also, due to constant water accumulation and drying out, a noticeable amount of dirt is starting to get inside the light which is also very frustrating... I'll post up some pictures tomorrow when it's daylight.
Joined: 05-18-11
Posts: 39,564
Likes: 87
From: West Chicago, IL
does anyone have experience with TRS's premium vs value shrouds? I saw on the site that the value might contain minor cosmetic damage where the premium ones are perfect. can anyone shed some light on the minor cosmetic damage and how minor it actually may or may not be?
Thats how I got mine, they were scuffed on the bottom, once I sanded and painted them and you cant even tell now!
Essentially you would could select value if you were going to paint them or something. If you wanted them to stay the way they are, don't select value.
okay that's what I was thinking anyway. I was just wondering how imperfect the value ones were as in one minor blemish per shroud or a big scuff on the front etc. thanks for the input fellas.















