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Official Retrofit Thread

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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 12:15 PM
  #1401  
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hmm's....
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 12:17 PM
  #1402  
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Originally Posted by riceburner
hmm's....
I'm pulling them apart next week, got this pretty badass sealant that I'm gonna throw a bead around. Should work out amazing
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 12:19 PM
  #1403  
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for sure dude... i texted you

send me a pic, from what i remember those were pretty badass looking and i'd love to have em, provided they don't leak and the lenses are holding up
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 01:27 PM
  #1404  
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OK my retros are up for grabs please ignore the stupid panjo bullshit and pm me to work out a deal.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/part...o-ship-302495/
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 03:20 AM
  #1405  
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why didnt u just not list on panjo if u didnt want to use it?
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 07:58 AM
  #1406  
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Anyone running Halos ever try tapping into the fog lights opposed to the DRL for power? Basically so that I can turn the halos on and off as I please?
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 08:17 AM
  #1407  
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From: West Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
why didnt u just not list on panjo if u didnt want to use it?
i didn't know it was an option at the time
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #1408  
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Originally Posted by kdub1492
Anyone running Halos ever try tapping into the fog lights opposed to the DRL for power? Basically so that I can turn the halos on and off as I please?
Tapping into the DRL is a runs 50% wattage. Wiring them to your side markers is the same thing as wiring them to your foglights.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 09:18 AM
  #1409  
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Originally Posted by mkulrey13
Tapping into the DRL is a runs 50% wattage. Wiring them to your side markers is the same thing as wiring them to your foglights.
I meant side marker :facepalm:

I was basically trying to figure out if anyone has done a switch system or something, so I could turn them on and off when needed
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 10:22 AM
  #1410  
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From: Wentzville
I did it when I had gen 1s on my old car. it worked really well

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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 05:05 PM
  #1411  
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Originally Posted by mkulrey13
Tapping into the DRL is a runs 50% wattage. Wiring them to your side markers is the same thing as wiring them to your foglights.
The DRL fuse slot actually runs at full voltage. So I'm using a fuse tap to have it power a relay so it can run my XBALED halos I have inside my Apollo 2.0 Flat shrouds on my EvoX-Rs. Then you stick a diode in the bottom fuse slot of the fuse tap to keep the halos on with your low beams.
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 03:28 PM
  #1412  
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anybody looking for a nice set of 2009 ss/tc headlights? unopened they look pretty good.
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 07:27 PM
  #1413  
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Originally Posted by riceburner
anybody looking for a nice set of 2009 ss/tc headlights? unopened they look pretty good.
How much?
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 12:09 AM
  #1414  
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From: Richmond Mi
Originally Posted by riceburner
what resistors are you using
Srry for the delay reply..but I dont run resistors..I also dont hae hyperflash so there was never a need
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 07:32 AM
  #1415  
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Originally Posted by nobody2u
Alright guys I need some insight:

My driver's side retrofit has been a nightmare ever since I've installed them. It's getting A LOT of water leaking inside of it. Water is literally pooling inside it overtime to the point where if the light isn't installed in the car you can pick it up and move the water around inside. It also fogs to the point where it pretty much covers the whole inside of the glass. Three times I've tried to fix it now:

I opened it up by taking the rubber backing off for a few days and made sure there was no water in it still when I installed it. The first I put a layer of waterproof silicone around the seal for extra sealing purposes. Installed it back in the car and the fog came back quickly.

The next time I tried the same process and I also resealed where the wire comes out for the highbeam solenoid. Still no luck.

The final time I've taken them out to try and fix this I picked up the headlight and with the water inside ran the water inside a full 360 degrees around the seal to see if any water would come out... it didn't. So I noticed that the rubber backing for the bulb spot thingy is quite dirty, especially compared to my stockers which were in the car for years. Also I noticed that that rubber backing will not by any means fit that space snugly. I tried using my OEM rubber backing and to no avail, the same thing happened where it wouldn't fit in properly. It seems like it isn't the rubber part's fault itself, but the space where the rubber backing goes is deformed or something and refuses to fit no matter how you try and get it in there.

I'm at a point where I THINK the water is getting in where the bulb is... but could that much water really be getting in there? Has anybody else ever encountered this problem before?

Any insight would be much appreciated- I'm sick and tired of the car looking the way it does with the headlight so fogged up. Also, due to constant water accumulation and drying out, a noticeable amount of dirt is starting to get inside the light which is also very frustrating... I'll post up some pictures tomorrow when it's daylight.
Hopefully will fix these this weekend... here goes attempt #5. So frustrating- the inside is starting to get all these damn water spots and dust everywhere

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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 01:22 PM
  #1416  
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try the trs sealent and clamp the light when its setting up.
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 02:14 PM
  #1417  
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From: Richmond Mi
Ya Ive just redid mine my driver headlights I ran a bead of Clear silcone around the whole thing..we'll see next time it rans.
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 02:19 PM
  #1418  
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Would anyone be willing to trade their black retros for my chromes? Looking to go back to the black lights.











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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 11:36 PM
  #1419  
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From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by Drivetrain Solutions
Would anyone be willing to trade their black retros for my chromes? Looking to go back to the black lights.
PM Tony Pshenichnykh... He just made himself another set. He might have all the blacked out parts (sans the projector itself, but you already have it), so you might get a good deal on them. That's if you're not afraid of a little DIY'ing...
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 01:14 AM
  #1420  
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Originally Posted by Sir_Hiro
Ya Ive just redid mine my driver headlights I ran a bead of Clear silcone around the whole thing..we'll see next time it rans.
thats what im about to try. i feel your pain nobody wuth the water spots and ****.
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #1421  
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Just looking for a direct swap. I don't have the space to mess around with it.
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 06:48 PM
  #1422  
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From: Wentzville
does anyone have experience with TRS's premium vs value shrouds? I saw on the site that the value might contain minor cosmetic damage where the premium ones are perfect. can anyone shed some light on the minor cosmetic damage and how minor it actually may or may not be?
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 08:09 PM
  #1423  
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Originally Posted by 06RYSS
does anyone have experience with TRS's premium vs value shrouds? I saw on the site that the value might contain minor cosmetic damage where the premium ones are perfect. can anyone shed some light on the minor cosmetic damage and how minor it actually may or may not be?
Thats how I got mine, they were scuffed on the bottom, once I sanded and painted them and you cant even tell now!
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 08:20 PM
  #1424  
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From: Halifax, NS
Originally Posted by 06RYSS
does anyone have experience with TRS's premium vs value shrouds? I saw on the site that the value might contain minor cosmetic damage where the premium ones are perfect. can anyone shed some light on the minor cosmetic damage and how minor it actually may or may not be?
Essentially you would could select value if you were going to paint them or something. If you wanted them to stay the way they are, don't select value.
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Old Oct 21, 2013 | 09:42 PM
  #1425  
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From: Wentzville
okay that's what I was thinking anyway. I was just wondering how imperfect the value ones were as in one minor blemish per shroud or a big scuff on the front etc. thanks for the input fellas.
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