this is more than just road pitting, ill post a pic of them tonight, they are beyond sanding and clearing.

 

I know this thread is a bit old, but is there anyone that still builds retrofits?

 

I built some for myself but I only build taillights for others. You may want to check with ECaulk he is local to me and does awesome work.

 

i mean if you wanted a unique set of gen 1 retros...

 

so ive had my projectors in for 3 years now, complete with morimoto hids, performed flawlessly, but in the last couple months ive started having issues with the headlights not turning on the first try. of coarse my car having auto headlights i have to shut the car off and try starting it again, or using the switch while the car is off to get them to light, its a pita. it started as only one light doing it, now both are doing it intermittently (sometimes the left, sometimes right, or sometimes both) making me lean towards it not being the harness and relay. is this more than likely caused by bulbs that are failing? its kinda what im leaning towards, but id hate to buy another set of bulbs only to find out its the balasts.

whats everyones opinion of led bulbs in a projector? i was looking at them, but im having a bit of a hard time finding a d2s led bulb thats 5000k or under (i like my 5500k hids but in my area the cops are going nuts issuing vehicle inspections for things like this, so i think its wise to go with a less conspicuous bulb temperature).

 

Have you double checked the wiring? I might have a spare good ballast I could ship to you to find out if it is that.

 

One of my lights is doing that, when troubleshooting I found that the connector from ballast to wiring harness for my d2s projector are some what loose and dont always make good contact

 

yea ive checked the wiring, nothing jumped out at me. ive got spare ballasts i could play with if i need to.

i think im gonna try a new pair of bulbs. i read a bit last night about how later in life the bulbs tend to move up the color scale, my 5500k bulbs are giving off a lot of blue, almost more like an 8000k bulb. i also read that it can be harder for the bulbs to ignite when they get to this stage.

 

if the bulbs dont work i might have some spare parts for you as well

 

I know this an old thread, but anyone know what rice used to make the evil eye? Shrink tubing? Electrical tape?

 

I think he painted over the halo.

 

Thanks, ECaulk. Another question for you or anyone else that still views this thread. I want to run switchbacks as my front turn signals, but I'm not sure what the best way to go about that is. I'm assuming I'll have to somehow split the DRL signal into the turn signals so the white is illuminated when the signal isn't? Further, I want the halo to be a switchback as well, so that turn signal input will somehow have to be split into the halo? Someone already make a harness for this?

 

id just pull the DRL fuse

 

I want the halo and the switchback signal (in white) to serve as the DRLs. Might make more sense if I had everything in front of me to sort out, I'm just trying to get it all figured out before I order anything.

 

You're going to have to disable the DRL fuse and run the halo DRL off a switched fuse circuit. Or you're going to be pulling apart a wire loom to separate the DRL wire from the high/low headlight wire.

 

Reaching out to see if somebody can give me a hand:
I bought these from Royce a while back and had them on my GT (some of you know that story) and the housing on both are trash - the clips that hold the headlight in place are sheered off, major damage to the dome, etc. I finally started taking these apart but I'm not sure if I have to take the whole light dome out or if it's only the front cover.

 

It looks like you'll need to remove the entire assembly there. There should be three spots it's mounted to in the plastic housing, a little bit of heat and leverage and you can get them to pop out

 

I thought so, but wasn't sure. I'll heat it up again and see if they'll just pop out. There is a hairline crack on that black housing part so I might hit that with some heat resistant putty.

 

If you're talking about the black part the the metal ball is in, let me know if it's broken. I may have a few of those lying around from back when I did retrofits