Problems with HIDS
however buyhids and DDM are both good companies so drop this **** and let the man get back to his issues.
Now to the op. It still is sounding like a relay problem to me. But as I do not have the same setup im not sure.
Seriously. And stop essing vendor's deees. You're not gonna get a hand-out.
And kingg5, that was not a serious questions. Neither company would.
Some people are so freaking blind, I swear.
And kingg5, that was not a serious questions. Neither company would.
Some people are so freaking blind, I swear.
Gonna say a few things here. The reason I support buyhids is that I've had to use their customer support, and they've fixed MY screw ups at their expense, and were very plesent about the whole thing. I have gotten defective bulbs from DDM SEVERAL times, and had to fight them to get my money back. I firmly believe in you get what you pay for, and I've never had a counter example prove me wrong. Also, you wanna see how good the bulb quality is? Look at the amount of salts in the chamber in the bulbs. DDMs bulbs are almost completely clear, causing them to run hotter. Buyhids bulbs are much better, and if you look at an OEM hid bulb, which can cost over $100 for just a set of bulbs, the chamber is completely filled with salts, making the bulbs run very cool. Example of you get what you pay for. Ebay bulbs are just as good as DDMs bulbs, they're both just as hit or miss. All aftermarket bulbs are as a matter of fact, weather they come from buyhids, DDM, or even the more expensive 3bspec. however not all aftermarket kits are the same, Some are better, and the more expensive they are, the more reliable they usually are.
Gonna say a few things here. The reason I support buyhids is that I've had to use their customer support, and they've fixed MY screw ups at their expense, and were very plesent about the whole thing. I have gotten defective bulbs from DDM SEVERAL times, and had to fight them to get my money back. I firmly believe in you get what you pay for, and I've never had a counter example prove me wrong. Also, you wanna see how good the bulb quality is? Look at the amount of salts in the chamber in the bulbs. DDMs bulbs are almost completely clear, causing them to run hotter. Buyhids bulbs are much better, and if you look at an OEM hid bulb, which can cost over $100 for just a set of bulbs, the chamber is completely filled with salts, making the bulbs run very cool. Example of you get what you pay for. Ebay bulbs are just as good as DDMs bulbs, they're both just as hit or miss. All aftermarket bulbs are as a matter of fact, weather they come from buyhids, DDM, or even the more expensive 3bspec. however not all aftermarket kits are the same, Some are better, and the more expensive they are, the more reliable they usually are.
here's where I was referring to with the salt thing. Specifically this part. Excellent read. There's tons to be learned on HID Planet.
Everything you ever wanted to know about HID bulbs..
Everything you ever wanted to know about HID bulbs..
Salts: Myths and Questions
Myth: The amount of salts denotes the age of the bulb.
This is partially false. The amount of salt does not really change with one caveat. The volume does increase slightly due to the sputtering of the electrodes, but it is not really that noticable. More importantly, the salts will turn more gray overtime as the metal from the electrodes is sputtered into the mixture of salts.
Myth: Visible Salts are a bad thing.
Competely FALSE. The salts are what actually produce the light in the bulb. Less salts mean a bulb that runs hotter.
Myth: Changing the salts prevents color shifting.
This is completely false. The blue you see in color shifting is the same blue you see at start-up. It is due to a type of light emission around the tips of the electrodes. By changing the shape or make of the electrode, you can design a bulb that will not turn bluer as the electrode is sputtered and deformed or where the blue emission is in a location where the projector will not pick it up.
Why are there salts in a bulb?
The salts actually produce the light in the bulb. When the bulb first fires, it fires at around 25kV. This is required to start the arc. At first, the blue you see is from a type of emission around the two electrodes. As the arc continues the temperature in the arc chamber rises, vaporizing the salts. These vaporized salts are then ionized by the arc into a plasma. This plasma is what emits light. It also serves to allow the required arc voltage to drop to around 84V.
What are some of the salts used in HID bulbs
Common Salts and their colors for HID
Sodium Iodide - White
Thallium Iodide - yellow crystals that become red at 170oC
Scandium Iodide - yellow powder
Dysprosium Iodide - deep yellow powder
Indium Iodide - deep red-brown color
Mercury Iodide - Yellow
The last one may or may not be added, but it may form due to the presence of iodide from the other salts.
More rare salts:
Cerium Iodide-Yellow
Neodymium Iodide - Green
Holmium Iodide - yellow
Erbium Iodide - Pink
Thulium Iodide - Yellow
Gadolinium Iodide - yellow
Ytterbium Iodide - yellow
Myth: The amount of salts denotes the age of the bulb.
This is partially false. The amount of salt does not really change with one caveat. The volume does increase slightly due to the sputtering of the electrodes, but it is not really that noticable. More importantly, the salts will turn more gray overtime as the metal from the electrodes is sputtered into the mixture of salts.
Myth: Visible Salts are a bad thing.
Competely FALSE. The salts are what actually produce the light in the bulb. Less salts mean a bulb that runs hotter.
Myth: Changing the salts prevents color shifting.
This is completely false. The blue you see in color shifting is the same blue you see at start-up. It is due to a type of light emission around the tips of the electrodes. By changing the shape or make of the electrode, you can design a bulb that will not turn bluer as the electrode is sputtered and deformed or where the blue emission is in a location where the projector will not pick it up.
Why are there salts in a bulb?
The salts actually produce the light in the bulb. When the bulb first fires, it fires at around 25kV. This is required to start the arc. At first, the blue you see is from a type of emission around the two electrodes. As the arc continues the temperature in the arc chamber rises, vaporizing the salts. These vaporized salts are then ionized by the arc into a plasma. This plasma is what emits light. It also serves to allow the required arc voltage to drop to around 84V.
What are some of the salts used in HID bulbs
Common Salts and their colors for HID
Sodium Iodide - White
Thallium Iodide - yellow crystals that become red at 170oC
Scandium Iodide - yellow powder
Dysprosium Iodide - deep yellow powder
Indium Iodide - deep red-brown color
Mercury Iodide - Yellow
The last one may or may not be added, but it may form due to the presence of iodide from the other salts.
More rare salts:
Cerium Iodide-Yellow
Neodymium Iodide - Green
Holmium Iodide - yellow
Erbium Iodide - Pink
Thulium Iodide - Yellow
Gadolinium Iodide - yellow
Ytterbium Iodide - yellow
I've come across that before back when I was absorbing as much information as I could about HIDs. Very good read. Thanks again. Wow. We miffed this thread all to hell. Sorry OP.
good point Tommy 
do you have a hard time dropping it? 
