Wire Tuck (with pics)
small update on the shave and tuck,
pulled the harness through the firewall

because it will now be coming out here

bought some sheet metal and using magnets to hold it in place welded it in. the metal will allow me to "bondo" over the hole so it will look like it never existed when i paint over it


did the same here
pulled the harness through the firewall

because it will now be coming out here

bought some sheet metal and using magnets to hold it in place welded it in. the metal will allow me to "bondo" over the hole so it will look like it never existed when i paint over it


did the same here
Last edited by Axelthered05; Feb 21, 2015 at 08:27 PM.
body filler will not have that good of adhesion to painted surfaces even when scuffed. you should really take it down to metal. use evercoats metal glaze if you want to go over a sanded painted surface.
Technically you're right but filler over properly prepped paint is never actually an issue.
technically right? actual filler aka bondo should not be applied over paint period. I have 10+ years in the body industry and never once have i seen GOOD body techs or myself apply lightweight fillers over a painted surface. its always straight to metal. The only filler i have found that works over painted surfaces really well is some of the glaze coats. Sure fillers have become more advance but when your crap fails and you have a rep come out to look and they see paint underneath the flaked off filler pieces they are going to be like wtf? we said to metal only. There is a reason manufactures and their chemists come up with how the product is suppose to be used.
technically right? actual filler aka bondo should not be applied over paint period. I have 10+ years in the body industry and never once have i seen GOOD body techs or myself apply lightweight fillers over a painted surface. its always straight to metal. The only filler i have found that works over painted surfaces really well is some of the glaze coats. Sure fillers have become more advance but when your crap fails and you have a rep come out to look and they see paint underneath the flaked off filler pieces they are going to be like wtf? we said to metal only. There is a reason manufactures and their chemists come up with how the product is suppose to be used.
On a huge flat panel that isn't an inner you might notice something.
Like I said it't not technically correct but you can get away with it. This is one of those times.
Yeah doing it that was is not my cup of tea. any risk of shrinking, halos, crap adhesion is not worth the risk even I'm places you do not see. Especially near an engine that gets pretty hot like the lnf. My 2 cents is do it right or just dont bother. to each is their own
A lot of fillers you can see when blocking or standings don't feather perfectly when applied over paint. And usually comes off a lot easier.
A lot of fillers you can see when blocking or standings don't feather perfectly when applied over paint. And usually comes off a lot easier.
technically right? actual filler aka bondo should not be applied over paint period. I have 10+ years in the body industry and never once have i seen GOOD body techs or myself apply lightweight fillers over a painted surface. its always straight to metal. The only filler i have found that works over painted surfaces really well is some of the glaze coats. Sure fillers have become more advance but when your crap fails and you have a rep come out to look and they see paint underneath the flaked off filler pieces they are going to be like wtf? we said to metal only. There is a reason manufactures and their chemists come up with how the product is suppose to be used.
if i can make any bit of advice to you. get into sheet metal shaping after you learn the basics. its a dying part of the business that is in high demand. if you decide to take on collision repair and get into the restoration side of the business. working at an insurace or a typical body shop wont make you any money down the road with how bad the regulations are now days. not a worthwhile career like it use to be unless you can shape metal since its a dying trade. i got out of it and got into other other ends of the business that proved to be a better off career in the end.
Omiotek is right it should have been taken down to bare metal, I was being lazy and cuting corners and got caught
lol ill strip the rest and see what i can do about the bondo already on the car, thanks Omiotek for keeping me honest
if i can make any bit of advice to you. get into sheet metal shaping after you learn the basics. its a dying part of the business that is in high demand. if you decide to take on collision repair and get into the restoration side of the business. working at an insurace or a typical body shop wont make you any money down the road with how bad the regulations are now days. not a worthwhile career like it use to be unless you can shape metal since its a dying trade. i got out of it and got into other other ends of the business that proved to be a better off career in the end.
It works quicker and stops the chemicals from evaporating.
(edit) Also give whatever you're stripping a quick scuff first.
Last edited by cluelessk; Feb 24, 2015 at 09:21 PM.
Joined: 05-18-11
Posts: 39,564
Likes: 87
From: West Chicago, IL
yes thats a great tip! my friend and i did an overhaul on his 88 trans am engine bay this fall, spent about 20 hours each on it, and yea plastic over the stripper helped it eat away at the paint a little better not to mention fume control to a small extent lol. boy would you be seeing colors at the end of the day haha





