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Wire Tuck (with pics)

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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 12:32 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by RyBread761
Most manufacturers are just throwing plastic on top of everything as a pseudo wire tuck lol
And it looks like poo because it covers the engine
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 07:19 PM
  #52  
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small update on the shave and tuck,
pulled the harness through the firewall

because it will now be coming out here

bought some sheet metal and using magnets to hold it in place welded it in. the metal will allow me to "bondo" over the hole so it will look like it never existed when i paint over it


did the same here

Last edited by Axelthered05; Feb 21, 2015 at 08:27 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 07:31 PM
  #53  
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body filler will not have that good of adhesion to painted surfaces even when scuffed. you should really take it down to metal. use evercoats metal glaze if you want to go over a sanded painted surface.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 12:13 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Omiotek
body filler will not have that good of adhesion to painted surfaces even when scuffed. you should really take it down to metal. use evercoats metal glaze if you want to go over a sanded painted surface.
Technically you're right but filler over properly prepped paint is never actually an issue.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 01:32 AM
  #55  
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technically right? actual filler aka bondo should not be applied over paint period. I have 10+ years in the body industry and never once have i seen GOOD body techs or myself apply lightweight fillers over a painted surface. its always straight to metal. The only filler i have found that works over painted surfaces really well is some of the glaze coats. Sure fillers have become more advance but when your crap fails and you have a rep come out to look and they see paint underneath the flaked off filler pieces they are going to be like wtf? we said to metal only. There is a reason manufactures and their chemists come up with how the product is suppose to be used.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 02:10 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Omiotek
technically right? actual filler aka bondo should not be applied over paint period. I have 10+ years in the body industry and never once have i seen GOOD body techs or myself apply lightweight fillers over a painted surface. its always straight to metal. The only filler i have found that works over painted surfaces really well is some of the glaze coats. Sure fillers have become more advance but when your crap fails and you have a rep come out to look and they see paint underneath the flaked off filler pieces they are going to be like wtf? we said to metal only. There is a reason manufactures and their chemists come up with how the product is suppose to be used.
The biggest issue is filler sinking into scratches or seeing a "halo" in some cases. Not falling off.

On a huge flat panel that isn't an inner you might notice something.

Like I said it't not technically correct but you can get away with it. This is one of those times.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 11:08 AM
  #57  
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Yeah doing it that was is not my cup of tea. any risk of shrinking, halos, crap adhesion is not worth the risk even I'm places you do not see. Especially near an engine that gets pretty hot like the lnf. My 2 cents is do it right or just dont bother. to each is their own

A lot of fillers you can see when blocking or standings don't feather perfectly when applied over paint. And usually comes off a lot easier.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 11:31 AM
  #58  
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In for final results.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 12:43 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Omiotek
technically right? actual filler aka bondo should not be applied over paint period. I have 10+ years in the body industry and never once have i seen GOOD body techs or myself apply lightweight fillers over a painted surface. its always straight to metal. The only filler i have found that works over painted surfaces really well is some of the glaze coats. Sure fillers have become more advance but when your crap fails and you have a rep come out to look and they see paint underneath the flaked off filler pieces they are going to be like wtf? we said to metal only. There is a reason manufactures and their chemists come up with how the product is suppose to be used.
I agree. I'm about to go to auto body school and when I went to visit for a day they were all using bondo on bare metal.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 01:11 PM
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if i can make any bit of advice to you. get into sheet metal shaping after you learn the basics. its a dying part of the business that is in high demand. if you decide to take on collision repair and get into the restoration side of the business. working at an insurace or a typical body shop wont make you any money down the road with how bad the regulations are now days. not a worthwhile career like it use to be unless you can shape metal since its a dying trade. i got out of it and got into other other ends of the business that proved to be a better off career in the end.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 07:04 PM
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Omiotek is right it should have been taken down to bare metal, I was being lazy and cuting corners and got caught lol ill strip the rest and see what i can do about the bondo already on the car, thanks Omiotek for keeping me honest
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 07:34 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Axelthered05
Omiotek is right it should have been taken down to bare metal, I was being lazy and cuting corners and got caught lol ill strip the rest and see what i can do about the bondo already on the car, thanks Omiotek for keeping me honest
its going to look damn clean once you get it done
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 02:49 AM
  #63  
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After all the work I would hate to see material failure
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Omiotek
After all the work I would hate to see material failure
yeah after you said somthing i started to think OMG what if i get it all together and it starts breaking up lol
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 06:44 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Omiotek
if i can make any bit of advice to you. get into sheet metal shaping after you learn the basics. its a dying part of the business that is in high demand. if you decide to take on collision repair and get into the restoration side of the business. working at an insurace or a typical body shop wont make you any money down the road with how bad the regulations are now days. not a worthwhile career like it use to be unless you can shape metal since its a dying trade. i got out of it and got into other other ends of the business that proved to be a better off career in the end.
Typical body shops/insurance fixes are where all the money is up here haha.
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 08:19 PM
  #66  
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 11:28 PM
  #67  
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much better start. spot weld your patches in grind them smooth. filler later. make sure you finish with 80 grit before filler
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 06:54 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Omiotek
much better start. spot weld your patches in grind them smooth. filler later. make sure you finish with 80 grit before filler
yeah ill get there but its damn cold out lol so the stripper isn't working very well so work is slow
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 08:41 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Axelthered05
yeah ill get there but its damn cold out lol so the stripper isn't working very well so work is slow
Cover the stripper with plastic.

It works quicker and stops the chemicals from evaporating.

(edit) Also give whatever you're stripping a quick scuff first.

Last edited by cluelessk; Feb 24, 2015 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cluelessk
Cover the stripper with plastic.

It works quicker and stops the chemicals from evaporating.

(edit) Also give whatever you're stripping a quick scuff first.
huh never heard of doing that, i will try that tomorrow. thanks for the tip
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 12:10 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Axelthered05
huh never heard of doing that, i will try that tomorrow. thanks for the tip
Also brush the stripper on in one direction and just let it sit as soon as possible. The more you spread it and move it the faster it'll evaporate.
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 12:11 AM
  #72  
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yes thats a great tip! my friend and i did an overhaul on his 88 trans am engine bay this fall, spent about 20 hours each on it, and yea plastic over the stripper helped it eat away at the paint a little better not to mention fume control to a small extent lol. boy would you be seeing colors at the end of the day haha
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 12:17 AM
  #73  
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did you start off colorblind?
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 05:41 PM
  #74  
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well i ordered a 6000watt shop heater, that came in yesterday and today ive been doing more paint stripping in the bay, pic update later tonight
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 08:10 PM
  #75  
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almost done striping the paint in the engine bay
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