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2006 Cobalt SS/SC ZZP Modded + More

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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 11:30 AM
  #1  
shanghai_todd's Avatar
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2006 Cobalt SS/SC ZZP Modded + More

Up for sale is my 2006 Cobalt, for those of you that have followed my build you know this car has been in the making for almost a year and had started out as a budget build and turned into a highly modified beast. As much as I hate to sell it I have a new born son and the car must go to keep the wife happy. For those not familiar with my build check out the link below and read up.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...-build-295035/

Need $7k firm, this is a steal considering all the new parts and work that has gone into this car.

Location: Tampa Florida
Car Info: 2006 Cobalt SS/SC
Contact: 727-421-0482.
Mileage: 120K but only 50miles on new motor and trans

Engine/Drivetrain:
Ported LSJ head with Supertech 78lb Valve Springs + new valve stem seals
Ported Supercharger + New Needle Bearings + ZZP Coupler
LE5 2.4 short block
Reluctor wheel modification and Balance Shaft Delete
ARP head studs
ZZP Performance H-Beam Connecting Rods + new rod bearings
JE Forged pistons Capable of 1000hp
New Main bearings
ZZP Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel and Clutch to Mate 2.4 and LSJ Trans
ZZP 2.8" Pulley + Oversized LSJ Tensioner Pulley
Siemens 60# Injectors
ZZP 1.0 PCM Canned Tune
Badmab Header
ZZP 3” Catted Downpipe
Dual Pass Stu mod and tank
New Thermostat and Water Pump
New intercooler Pump
New Seals throughout the Entire Rebuild

Recommendations:
(1) Get the car dyno tunned. Currently car is running on a ZZP canned tune for the initial break-in period. My plan was to clock 2K miles on the engine and new clutch before getting her on the Dyno. Car does get an occasional misfire under low acceleration which is the result of the #60 injectors, timing and plug gap and is why I recommend the Dyno tune to dial it in. There are multiple post on the forums about #60’s and misfires, while trying different gaps has helped, it needs the proper dyno tune.
(2) Get the 3” ZZP downpipe welded to the 2.5” cat back. I currently have a clamped reducer pipe using the stock flanges which is OK but a slight exhaust lead and occasional rattle when cold.

Open Honesty:
Car needs a new leather shift boot “easy cheap fix”
Back window tint is beginning to peal at the top “easy cheap fix”
Couple of dings and chips in the hood from normal wear-n-tear “solution: carbon fiber”

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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 02:48 PM
  #2  
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Walk around video

Old Mar 15, 2014 | 01:51 PM
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Price reduced 6000
Old Apr 9, 2014 | 11:32 AM
  #4  
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Price reduced $5500 cash, need sold by this weekend.
Old Apr 16, 2014 | 08:28 PM
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Dropped to $5000 cash
Old Apr 17, 2014 | 08:08 AM
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Closed ~ duplicate thread
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