i dropped to a 5gph nozzle on my car due to the road racing fun i had. 7gph with a hobbs switch lead to fuel build up in the cylinders when i rolled into coming out of the apex on corners.

mine triggered at 4psi. since the drop in nozzles. i can roll into the throttle and have more corner control. which is much more desirable to me.

 

the only reason i don't have that problem is i don't have instant boost so by the time it builds to 5psi im already bringing in fresh air and the cyl are ready, but i could see how your sc set-up would do exactly what your saying seeing you make instantaneous boost, i didn't used to do much road coarse racing so i always wanted turbo but now im stuck with straight line cause my throttle response is ****...


but when it comes on theres no lack of it

 

i like that terminology there

 

Well I am running 6 right now. Because I am doing pre-turbo injection and post IC injection I can get away with more than a single fogger.

So, the first fogger will spray 5 gph directly into the turbo and vaporize cooling the charge. The second will spray 5gph right before the throttle body and hopefully help cool the charge and increase the octane.

IDK what mix you were running with your 14 gph but I am about 90% meth which helps keep from bogging as compared to washer fluid.

My IAt's on saturday were 160 at the end of a run. It's unacceptable and I'm really hopping to help a little with the bandaid of more meth

 

more meth won't help cooling. water dissipates heat much better.

 

Maybe I should move to a 75% mix? I def need help from it to cool the intake charge.

 

about 95-98% M1 i used to run 100% but a47 advised me of the small amount of water to lower the flash point of the meth, don't know if it did anything but i know how to listen when advice is givin

 

lol. if you're hitting 160 degree's on temps. you might want to look at your intercooler as the issue first

 

i had some weird **** happen at the track the other day when i tried to run 20+psi, i was knocking in third only and i was pulling like 6degrees of timing and adding tons of fuel down as low as 10.4-10.8 and it was still knocking i was only commanding like 9 degrees of timing and it was still knocking... then when i left it wasnt knocking and before i got there it wasn't... i was so confused i thought i may be false knock so i kept my foot in it one run and my trap speed was down a mph and i could literally feel the car surging in third as the ecm was pulling timing...

maybe i got bad gas? maybe i just needed race gas? i dont know but i went back to bkr7e **** the auto lites! i haven't been back to the track yet. i have road tested and had no problems... that's what is so weird about it...

i cant duplicate the problem, i have logs though and nothing looks abnormal to me?

 

Yeah. I need to get an air to air. My water to air system isn't cutting it. But, if I can somehow cool it down before I rework the system I will.

 

air to water????? ouch... i forgot your running a s/c delete...


but hey you do have the fastest lsj so i guess you gotta be doing something right...

 

No not SC delete. I used to run that.

I actually have a SAAB LK9 manifold and a separate water to air IC. The IC is plumed with the stock pump and HE plus cobra. I really thought it was going to yield low temps and in normal driving and during early testing it was extremely efficient. But, when the car sits the whole system heats up and it doesn't cool down fast enough. I think with a bigger w2a unit I could get better results but I'm done fussing with the complicated system and I'm just going to go to a proven setup with an a2a.

Oddly enough Hot-lapping the car gave me 130IAT2's. That's not great but it is acceptable in my book. But, if I let the car sit it heat soaks bad and doesn't cool off quick enough. I start the run already seeing 120 and end it @ 160 with plenty of KR to share.

 

KR for everyone

have you looked into a custom manifold spacer made, jimboss saw a 20* drop in iat using the same manifold the head is tranferring the heat to the mani... he had a 1/4 spacer made out of abs plastic or something and it dropped 20*

 

Well here's my sad ass timeslip. I'm sure we will see better once I clear up the wreckage lol.

 

No but I have thought about it. I never really looked into seriously getting one. I think an a2a should help alot and maybe that's something I should look for ontop of that.

 

driver skills are needed.

 

[QUOTE=StreetDreamz;4044243]Well here's my sad ass timeslip. I'm sure we will see better once I clear up the wreckage lol.


you got a TVS and are only picking up 20mph in the backstrech?

 

More LSJ's than LNF's in the top 10, also in the 12's too.

 

Well that has to do with the limited aftermarket for the LNF cars. The LSJ cars have way more aftermarket stuff then the LNF guys do!

 

No not at all. I don't have one LSJ specific aftermarket part for my motor.

 

Yeah it does. Because the fuel issue hasnt been cracked for the LNF cars. Unlike you the LSJ cars, they have fuel injection and no fuel issues.

 

i will be in the 12's soon no problem

 

saturn rules

wing less better time.

with my 18 lbs wingless trunk compare to your 40lbs it will make a different. 5th to 2dn place maybe pole position

 

a nitrous backfire prevented that novel idea.

of course. only picking up 20 in the back half didn't help

 

Hey I only got three good runs that night. Not bad for the first time out with the car on this set up.

The car was breaking up once the air got colder. I was seeing boost upwards of 25psi. I think the non-resistor spark plugs are finally starting to give me and the coils problems.

That 40lbs won't make enough of a different to warrant me taking off the whole wing. Maybe when I start trapping 130 and downforce comes into play.

Area do you have any problems with your car breaking up when it gets into boost above 23 psi or so? I think the plugs I run (NGK v-power racing non-resistor non-projected tip range 9) are finally starting to give the coils fits. The problem is I need that high heat range when I use nitrous with up to 27psi once the nitrous cools the charge to keep the knock at bay and I'd rather not use tiny Iridium plugs on the bottle. I even tried closing the gap on the plugs in there now to .025, didn't help. I think it's just the fact that they're non-resistor style.