firehawk618

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I agree with you. I am no stranger to auto's.

I will definitely replace the seals. If bearings weren't so hard to find for our transaxles I would split the case and replace all of them along with the input shaft seal since these are fairly difficult to remove from the car. *subframe*

The HHR it came out of rolled over. I just hope the axles didn't smack into the carrier causing bearing damage or worse. I will inspect it closely for any evidence of case cracks from the wreck.

Thanks!

firehawk618

iTrader: (2)

I bet this is what's wrong with my reverse.

Hard to put into reverse - The Saab Link Forums

At least we don't have to put our levers in reverse to take our keys out of the ignition!


EDIT: And here's the factory Saab kit to address this exact issue.

http://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/files...ans-update.htm

firehawk618

iTrader: (2)

I went ahead and installed the ZZP adjustable master tonight. My clutch engagement is up a little bit from where it was. It does feel better a bit shifting but high RPM shifts still aren't happening.

It's done nothing for the reverse issue either.

I'm just going to run it the way it is and wait for the HHR replacement to get here.


My transaxle is exhibiting all the symptoms I read about that the 9-3 guys have.

2nd locked out at high rpm's, reverse locked out a vast majority of the time.

I found that if I coast down in 2nd, then put it in reverse while the car is moving forward just a tiny bit increases my chances of it going in greatly.

When it refuses to go in it seems that no amount of going forward a bit whether it's 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc "unlocks" reverse. Doing it the dirty way does seem to work generally.

firehawk618

iTrader: (2)

Thought I should post an update.

So here's a summary of the issues I was having.

1. Cannot absolutely in any way shift at high rpm's. *think wot runs* It just flat out does not go into the next gear until the rpm's come down a bit and of course all boost is gone. No grinding or anything, just acts like there's a lockout or something.

2. It will go into reverse sometimes, and no way no how other times. Just acts like there's a block in the way.

3. Trans was noisy as hell.

4. When cruising along in 3rd or 5th it would just pop out sometimes. No noise, no warning just suddenly I'm in neutral. Very smooth falling out of gear if that makes sense.

5. I just changed the fluid a couple weeks ago and tonight when I drained it again it had etch a sketch tint to it along with a bunch of shavings stuck to the drain plug.

This leads me to believe some of the shift mechanism is bent in the trans. I will tear it apart soon, inspect and discard any defective pieces.



I picked up a relatively low mile HHR SS LSD replacement and installed it tonight.

When I had the two side by side I could clearly see the upper selector lever was off about 1/2" from where the HHR ones were. When the trans is in neutral on the HHR trans the two levers almost lined up. On my bad trans the upper lever was off a bit. I took out the roll pin and it was straight as can be.

I noticed also the bad trans has been apart before. I know this because they used red anaerobic sealant and it was oozing out at the seams. The HHR trans had none of this.


I had no idea what clutch was in my car but knew for sure it wasn't stock

The pedal engagement was pretty close to the floor. Not terrible but very close to the floor.

When I pulled the trans it turns out I had a clutchmasters stage 3 along with their aluminum flywheel.

I was under the gun to get this R&R'd tonight because my access to a lift was either this weekend or I had to wait a month to gain access again.

I had a LUK oem replacement on hand so I went ahead and put that in. I wasn't 100% sure that the original clutch wasn't part of the cause of the WOT shifting issue since the pedal was very close to the floor.

Got it all installed and went for a drive. WOW so THIS is what a healthy trans in these cars feels like. I can shift effortlessly at any rpm! Amazing.

The LUK clutch feels sooooo much better. Pedal engagement is up an inch or two from where it was. Feels good.

The LUK is NOT holding the power in 3rd gear. I am going to put 500 miles or so on it without any hard runs to get this broken in and go from there.

I have my doubts that it will hold. Worst case scenario I will line up a GMPP and yank the trans one more time to install one of those.

I am also on the fence as to whether or not I should keep the aluminum flywheel or ditch it and go with OEM iron one.

Either way I am happy my trans works properly now. No more holding up people when I try to back in somewhere with reverse being a piece of crap!

Opened the hood at 6:15. Test driving the car at 10:15. Pretty easy trans to R&R really even considering the subframe must come out.

firehawk618

iTrader: (2)

Once I bring the old trans home and tear it apart I will be offering parts for sale. I have got to start recouping some expense I have dumped into this car since I got it.

turbocharged717

Yeah you'll probably be changing that clutch

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Yeah change that clutch when you get a chance and get the oem flywheel

firehawk618

iTrader: (2)

I figured i'd end up doing this one more time.

The only positive thing out of that is it's a pretty easy trans to R&R thankfully.

I really REALLY wish I wasn't pressured to get this done this weekend.

I would have lined up the GMPP setup.

I'm not 100% certain but found a few posts saying the LUK was the OEM in the SS's.

LNFwagonSS

Most likely need to boost ramp with that clutch. All in after ~4k. Glad your finaly able to really drive the damn thing.

firehawk618

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I reduced my power quite a bit in the tune to give this clutch some miles to hopefully decide and take. I am prepared to swap in OEM steel flywheel + GMPP or Clutchmasters PP + oem disc.

I am glad to finally be able to shift also!

Last night I did a couple hard runs "power tuned down a bit but still quick" and it went right into the next gear like butter!

I can't imagine what it'll be like on a full power tune + clutch that holds + trans that works!

Someday soon!


EDIT: When I took it all out I discovered an aluminum flywheel + Clutchmasters FX300 clutch. I didn't want to chance putting that clutch back in just in case it was the cause of the high rpm shifting issue. I now have my doubts that the clutch had anything to do with it. When I measured the FX300 disc vs stock it was several MM's less than the LUK so I stuck the whole LUK in. Of course the LUK isn't holding torque when it hits in 2nd or 3rd, and if it won't hold in those two gears it certainly won't hold in 4th or 5th. I adjusted my tune down for now and for now it's holding with less torque.

I emailed clutchmasters days ago asking about purchasing a new disc and the minmum/new thickness of a disc and haven't received a reply from them to date.

LNFwagonSS

Skip to 4:45...it should be similar to that if your a good driver. That's a normal 2-3 speed shift followed by 3-4 & 4-5 NLS w 4.45 gears. The newest MU3 trannies are excellent for speed shifting IMO.

firehawk618

iTrader: (2)

lol funny you mention NLS. I was able to pull one off finally. 2-3. Clutch no likey!