slacker

My GM tech new about it said he didn't have bleeding tool he bled his by taking bleeder off at tranny and rolled it around spent couple hours that way he thanked me today for showing him how he hooked it to the master cylinder. My friend at sears auto and my speed shop that did install thanked me he has 11.9 turbo ecotec in cavalier happt to learn about the GM proper way the slave cylinder is 4" below blidder (lots traped air)I sigjest on original install do it both ways to help get air out of both ends. when done correctly you will see the air your self easy to do. Most shops are surprized to hear it shares the master cylinder. Will see if it helps srtkiller hope so it fixed mine

slacker

Everyone I talked with could not see how to pull reverse vacuum on system didn't sound correct to me at first

srt-killer

Well after doing the bleen i went out for a drive. The clutch felt alot more like the stock one. As far as shifting at high RPM's the car went into 2nd pretty easy but still wouldn't allow me to power shift. Going into 3rd the problem was still there but not as bad. I was realy impressed on how well it worked so i tried to bleed it again, this time i don't know what happend but when done it felt like crap again. So i tried to bleed it again for a 3rd time and it felt alot better again (the same as the first bleed). I was still disapointed i can't power shift or get 3rd still but it is a big improvment. When i got into my car this morning to drive to work it felt good but about half way here i felt my clutch stiffin back up, so i tried to sift at a high RPM and the problem is back. It was really weird cause the clutch was really light, then when i pressed it in it just got stiff and went back to the way it was. I don't understand how it went away then came back after driving for awile. I am going to try and bleed it one more time today.

2K5SS/SC?

I used the Mity vac procedure to bleed mine. I first bled it with the bleeder the old school way first, then I used the Mityvac. The Mityvac sucked a ton of air out of my lines. I just wish someone would make a SS clutch line. I bet that or drilling the hole out like the LS1 mod would help out greatly.

srt-killer

I am very surprised that no one has made a line for us yet. Im sure they would sell like crazy!

2K5SS/SC?

That is for sure!

slacker

Sorry didn't help you more, I"m happy with the way it ran today bleed one more time today Took out for about 40 miles then ran 2 hard runs Had no problem with shifts. Hope it stays that way.

SStud

I used that procedure to bleed mine and i did it for a week straight and got no results. I did pull alot of air out but it didn't seem to help.

slacker

Wish I could explain, mine work Great now. Put another !20 miles on today have 385 miles now. Started running hard no hole shot but hard through the rest of the gears quit a few times. No problems only problem now can't keep tires hooked up. going to put Drag radials on this weekend

slacker

525 miles now works great Revs Quicker Billet Flywheel. Just can't use all the power in 1st anymore, just brake the tires loose just snaping on throttle any speed in 1st. Onlt trouble i had was the Air mine was installed at Race Related in Clearwater FL

phlash

lower your air pressure and they wont break loose so easily...

soccer1061287

Well, I've had my share of experience with this clutch, Clutchmasters, bleeding using a mityvac and so on. Here are a few comments that you might find helpful. If you vacuum bleed it and it feels some better, but deteriorates quickly. Don't sweat it. It will feel better in the morning and then get shitty again. Each day it will be better for longer. The reason for that is that when it sits overnight, SOME of the air that you were not able to get out, will work its way up. Then after cycling for a while, more of the trapped air will bubble into the line. After a week or two, it should be pretty consistent. I am not convinced that our lines are expanding enough to cause a problem. I have studied this problem quite a bit and I believe that the CM setup is marginal for stack height. Within manufacturing tolerance (of both your cars components and the clutches), some cars will be just fine and others will have perrinial problems. For instance, I think Dans car would be an issue no matter what CM gave him. But I will give you a tip Dan. If you have a saturday afternoon with nothing to do, pull the trans and put a 0.020" shim between the pressure plate and the flywheel. I would be willing to bet that your problem would dissapear. You gotta understand that the entire stroke of this pressure plate is only 2mm. I have dealt with the guys at CM and find them to be very reasonable when approached from one business man to another, but if you go in there bitchin about this, that and the other, they will cop an attitude and not help you. What would you do?? I never asked for my labor to be reimbursed, but I did get 4 different setups from them before I was happy (and I screwed one of them up, but I told them I did). My trans was out of my car 5 times in 6 weeks with just me doing the wrenching, so I know what a pain it can be. Currently, I have about 30,000 miles on my CM stage 3. I put 280 whp down on engine alone and 350 with the bottle. My car gets run hard and I have never slipped this clutch. It has always held. It took about 2,000 miles before it felt REALLY good though. Not right, but reality. Sorry for the novel.

djt81185

I agree but having the but proper R&D should have been done on their dime not our own. If/When I crack my trans open again an Exedy setup will go in there and another CM product will never be purchased for ANY vehicle I own (Though I am a broke college student so I MAY try this lol). They have lost about 8 prospective buyers in the Pittsburgh area alone from this fiasco. Like I said...I worked in OEM clutch development for a little over a year and this stuff they pulled would not last 1 minute in the OEM world. At my job we did up to 3/4 clutch changes per day making sure it was right (designing the original). If making an aftermarket, it was subjected to the same OEM tests and didnt go into production until it was verified to operate like an OEM application.

Now my clutch has never slipped at all...but it doesnt release properly either. I have no doubt a .020" shim would probably fix it but the point is they either should have told me it needed one or designed it so it wasnt needed. Everytime I told them there was a problem they insisted it was something I did or didn't do.

Dan

soccer1061287

Yeah, I suspect they are a pretty small outfit and sunning on a shoestring budget. From what I have been able to piece together from my personal discussions with them I would bet that they manufacture nothing. They purchase various compontents and assemble them. In fact, in the case of the LUK pressure plates, I suspect they just paint them white and put a CM sticker on them.

slacker

Well I have 1000 miles now works great I agree about air I believe the trick is leave it hooked up, let vacuum do its job and every once in a while pump clutch pedal rapidly to brake up air in line if done properly when done both pedals brake and clutch pedal will hit floor then pump up I have had no problems since then I am completely satisfied see how long it holds for.