How To Shift With An Auto 2.4?
Once again I must come on here to educate my ignorant manual Cobalt owner bretheren. I'll write this slowly so you can read it too
:
If you leave the tranny in "I" or "D" and you get wheel spin the ECM will reduce power (It is commomly referred to as Traction Control) and your acceleration suffers. By putting it in "L" it disables the Traction Control!
And additionally, my ignorant manual shifting brother, the subject is about SHIFTING the auto not leaving it in "L".
Where you position the shifter determines how much power is available. Please educate yourself, maybe a few books on late model automatics will help. that's what I've been reading.
If you leave the tranny in "I" or "D" and you get wheel spin the ECM will reduce power (It is commomly referred to as Traction Control) and your acceleration suffers. By putting it in "L" it disables the Traction Control!
And additionally, my ignorant manual shifting brother, the subject is about SHIFTING the auto not leaving it in "L".
Where you position the shifter determines how much power is available. Please educate yourself, maybe a few books on late model automatics will help. that's what I've been reading.
SOOO, my ignorant automatic owner, about that traction contral crap that spewed from your mouth like diarrhea, was just that, CRAP.
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YEA.... Normally there is a BUTTON to disable traction control, depending on the car. NTM, traction control is NOT IN ALL CARS, so do you even really know what ur talking about? Traction control is OPTIONAL in the cobalt, it is not standard.
SOOO, my ignorant automatic owner, about that traction contral crap that spewed from your mouth like diarrhea, was just that, CRAP.
SOOO, my ignorant automatic owner, about that traction contral crap that spewed from your mouth like diarrhea, was just that, CRAP.
It's not even that we want the capability to change gears. I want to know how to shift the autos because it will greatly decrease my 1/4 mile times at the track.
Last edited by ssweeet; Jul 18, 2008 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
YEA.... Normally there is a BUTTON to disable traction control, depending on the car. NTM, traction control is NOT IN ALL CARS, so do you even really know what ur talking about? Traction control is OPTIONAL in the cobalt, it is not standard ( unless u bought a 2008+ ).
SOOO, my ignorant automatic owner, about that traction contral crap that spewed from your mouth like diarrhea, was just that, CRAP.
SOOO, my ignorant automatic owner, about that traction contral crap that spewed from your mouth like diarrhea, was just that, CRAP.
To give you an example ( even thought this is a Ford ), the mustang GT 99-04 normally does about 14.3-14.5 with an automatic tranny. With a good tune ( or chip ), you can easily see low 14's high 13's. Thats a pretty decent increase.
Another arguement that will start is whether or not to power-break the converter. -- For your own decision/learning experience try it both ways and see which gives you the best Elapsed Time:
1: hold brake, push throttle until stall is reached, floor it just before the green light.
2: Engine at idle, floor it on the last yellow light. (my recommendation)
http://www.cars.com/go/crp/research....=&aff=national
DING DING DING! You have no clue what ur talking about.
On the dragstrip start out in "L" even if you have TC control with a button.
Another arguement that will start is whether or not to power-break the converter. -- For your own decision/learning experience try it both ways and see which gives you the best Elapsed Time:
1: hold brake, push throttle until stall is reached, floor it just before the green light.
2: Engine at idle, floor it on the last yellow light. (my recommendation)
Another arguement that will start is whether or not to power-break the converter. -- For your own decision/learning experience try it both ways and see which gives you the best Elapsed Time:
1: hold brake, push throttle until stall is reached, floor it just before the green light.
2: Engine at idle, floor it on the last yellow light. (my recommendation)
Last edited by 1BADSS/SC; Jul 18, 2008 at 01:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Ok I'll clear a few things up here.
Shifting an auto car "manually" will NOT hurt the tranny as long as you aren’t down shifting it or aren't over revving the car and shifting which causes shock to the tranny.
BUT there is no point in shifting an automatic manually for a few reasons. Revving the car out more won't necessarily make you run faster times, it can actually hurt your times. If the car makes peak power a 5700rpms there is not point in revving the car to 6500. The computer knows when to shift and is tuned to shift at a certain rpm to make peak power in every gear at WOT. Human error can screw you over too, letting the car stay in one gear to long can cause you to hit the rev limiter since you have to shift earlier than what you want the car to, do to slight computer lag when manually shifting, usually 300-500rpms. This means you want to shift the car at 6000 you actually shift at 5500-5700rpms. Another problem is hitting the shifter to hard and accidentally going into drive, this isn’t actually bad but it takes a second for the tranny to figure out what gear it should be in which again slows the car down.
I see people do this all the time at the track and I laugh because they think they are going to run faster times doing this and the fact is they don’t.
If you want to run faster times in an auto you need to “flash” the converter at the light, buy a bigger stall converter, gears (if they make them for your car), and get a tune to firm up shifts and to figure out where your car needs to shift at to get peak performance.
A shift kit wouldn’t hurt either if they make one for your car.
Shifting an auto car "manually" will NOT hurt the tranny as long as you aren’t down shifting it or aren't over revving the car and shifting which causes shock to the tranny.
BUT there is no point in shifting an automatic manually for a few reasons. Revving the car out more won't necessarily make you run faster times, it can actually hurt your times. If the car makes peak power a 5700rpms there is not point in revving the car to 6500. The computer knows when to shift and is tuned to shift at a certain rpm to make peak power in every gear at WOT. Human error can screw you over too, letting the car stay in one gear to long can cause you to hit the rev limiter since you have to shift earlier than what you want the car to, do to slight computer lag when manually shifting, usually 300-500rpms. This means you want to shift the car at 6000 you actually shift at 5500-5700rpms. Another problem is hitting the shifter to hard and accidentally going into drive, this isn’t actually bad but it takes a second for the tranny to figure out what gear it should be in which again slows the car down.
I see people do this all the time at the track and I laugh because they think they are going to run faster times doing this and the fact is they don’t.
If you want to run faster times in an auto you need to “flash” the converter at the light, buy a bigger stall converter, gears (if they make them for your car), and get a tune to firm up shifts and to figure out where your car needs to shift at to get peak performance.
A shift kit wouldn’t hurt either if they make one for your car.
unbelieveable after explaning the low to I several times and y it is better to start in low there are still some that just dont get it. well us auto guys get it. its just funny if u look through the thread how many times it is explained
My 07 2.4 was stuck with traction control, I usually launched in L to avoid it. My cousin just drove an 08(apparently) G5 GT home, basically the same car, but he has a traction control override on the dash, should he just launch in Drive to pull his best ET? He wants to meet in the 1/4, but I still have no clue how to drive my 5 speed
My 07 2.4 was stuck with traction control, I usually launched in L to avoid it. My cousin just drove an 08(apparently) G5 GT home, basically the same car, but he has a traction control override on the dash, should he just launch in Drive to pull his best ET? He wants to meet in the 1/4, but I still have no clue how to drive my 5 speed 
And 04YellowGT metioned flashing the converter...this is done by flooring the car from an idle, not power braking....if you contact transmission performance shops they will tell you this too.
Manual tranny guys....stick to your manuals and leave the autotrannys to those that know them

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Shifting DOES NOT HURT THE TRANNY!!!!!!!!!
The Cobalt's valve body is electronically controlled and not like autos of the past.
"L" disables traction control so that you can floor it and if (when) you get wheel spin it will not reduce power (not supposed to but this is debatable) and it will automatically shift into 2nd gear at redline. Once in 2nd shift up to "I" to allow 2nd to 3rd gear. If you leave it in drive you will not get the best acceleration from a dig. This is because the tranny increases oil pressure when the shifter is in "L" or "I" to increase torque management.
"I" is for "spirited" driving -- the tranny will upshift and downshift on it's own -- you will also notice the exhaust tone is different then when the tranny is in "D". In "I" the tranny will not go into OD so gas mileage will suffer but your throttle response will be quicker.
If shifting the tranny was as bad to your tranny as some indicate then GM would have only provided P R N D. Also note that other manufacturers have paddle shifters or "bang" shifters -- do you think the manufacturers would put these in there if it was bad for the tranny. AND FINALLY, I owned a FORD (ok, a 4-letter word) for 27 years and installed a shift kit and a B&M bang shifter and drove that car nearly every day slapping it through the gears -- never went out on me -- but I guess it was bad for it.


Shifting DOES NOT HURT THE TRANNY!!!!!!!!!
The Cobalt's valve body is electronically controlled and not like autos of the past.
"L" disables traction control so that you can floor it and if (when) you get wheel spin it will not reduce power (not supposed to but this is debatable) and it will automatically shift into 2nd gear at redline. Once in 2nd shift up to "I" to allow 2nd to 3rd gear. If you leave it in drive you will not get the best acceleration from a dig. This is because the tranny increases oil pressure when the shifter is in "L" or "I" to increase torque management.
"I" is for "spirited" driving -- the tranny will upshift and downshift on it's own -- you will also notice the exhaust tone is different then when the tranny is in "D". In "I" the tranny will not go into OD so gas mileage will suffer but your throttle response will be quicker.
If shifting the tranny was as bad to your tranny as some indicate then GM would have only provided P R N D. Also note that other manufacturers have paddle shifters or "bang" shifters -- do you think the manufacturers would put these in there if it was bad for the tranny. AND FINALLY, I owned a FORD (ok, a 4-letter word) for 27 years and installed a shift kit and a B&M bang shifter and drove that car nearly every day slapping it through the gears -- never went out on me -- but I guess it was bad for it.
Shifting an automatic is as bad as putting it in neutral on a hill, so people think you have a manual.
If you wanted to shift, why didnt you buy a manual?
I know with the auto you have a choice between I,L or just D. But come on, an Automatic is for people who cant multitask and drive while actually deciding in your head how fast you want your car to go.
If you wanted to shift, why didnt you buy a manual?
I know with the auto you have a choice between I,L or just D. But come on, an Automatic is for people who cant multitask and drive while actually deciding in your head how fast you want your car to go.
Shifting an automatic is as bad as putting it in neutral on a hill, so people think you have a manual.
If you wanted to shift, why didnt you buy a manual?
I know with the auto you have a choice between I,L or just D. But come on, an Automatic is for people who cant multitask and drive while actually deciding in your head how fast you want your car to go.
If you wanted to shift, why didnt you buy a manual?
I know with the auto you have a choice between I,L or just D. But come on, an Automatic is for people who cant multitask and drive while actually deciding in your head how fast you want your car to go.
see thats where you are ignorant.. when you shift it manually there is more line pressure so it shifts harder at alittle higher RPM.. plus from a dig if your in Low then it disables traction control. I personally have a auto 2.4 because I use the car as a daily driver.... I am very distinguished with manual transmissions, over the years i would estimate that i have changed gears for well over half a million miles..
another thing is that if you notice or new anything about drag racing you would know that some of the fastest cars are autos, most use a th400 or a powerglide trans, reason being is less room for human error and better consistency.. which is crucial for both drag racing and bracket racing..
"Shifting" an auto makes you look like a poser.
It's hard to believe that so many manual owners don't get it.......When you position an automatic tranny in "L" it increases line pressure AND applies the low/reverse band to assist the low one-way roller -- it sets the transmission up to accept increased torque by making sure the low one-way roller assembly doesn't slip. It is accomplished via the manual valve in the valve body that you move with the shift lever. No shift kit or shiftplus does this.
AND because most auto 2.4L Cobalts have the idiotic traction control you have to put the shifter in "L" to disengage the TC -- if you don't and you get wheel spin the engine power is reduced by retarding the timing and shutting off fuel injectors. (I haven't met a 2.4L auto owner yet that doesn't have TC)
"Lack of education can be a dangerous thing...I prefer to know what my car has so I can use it all to my advantage"
AND because most auto 2.4L Cobalts have the idiotic traction control you have to put the shifter in "L" to disengage the TC -- if you don't and you get wheel spin the engine power is reduced by retarding the timing and shutting off fuel injectors. (I haven't met a 2.4L auto owner yet that doesn't have TC)
"Lack of education can be a dangerous thing...I prefer to know what my car has so I can use it all to my advantage"
It's hard to believe that so many manual owners don't get it.......When you position an automatic tranny in "L" it increases line pressure AND applies the low/reverse band to assist the low one-way roller -- it sets the transmission up to accept increased torque by making sure the low one-way roller assembly doesn't slip. It is accomplished via the manual valve in the valve body that you move with the shift lever. No shift kit or shiftplus does this.
AND because most auto 2.4L Cobalts have the idiotic traction control you have to put the shifter in "L" to disengage the TC -- if you don't and you get wheel spin the engine power is reduced by retarding the timing and shutting off fuel injectors. (I haven't met a 2.4L auto owner yet that doesn't have TC)
"Lack of education can be a dangerous thing...I prefer to know what my car has so I can use it all to my advantage"
AND because most auto 2.4L Cobalts have the idiotic traction control you have to put the shifter in "L" to disengage the TC -- if you don't and you get wheel spin the engine power is reduced by retarding the timing and shutting off fuel injectors. (I haven't met a 2.4L auto owner yet that doesn't have TC)
"Lack of education can be a dangerous thing...I prefer to know what my car has so I can use it all to my advantage"
I was saying that shifting it manually in an every day situation is stupid.
If he did turn it off it, it would have to be in the ECM. The Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) gets a signal from the wheel when it spins without brakes applied, then the EBCM sends a signal to the ECM to reduce torque by retarding timing and shutting off fuel injectors. It would have to be a feature in the ECM that would allow you to disable the TC.


