Some of you might have seen my post that praised South Bend Stage Clutches. But basically I just bought and installed (roughly three-four months ago) one of their Stage 3 clutches and I also bought a fidanza aluminum flywheel from ZZP. I know it was installed correctly as a mechanic helped me install it. As you probably can guess, the clutch is slipping terribly!!! I am not terrible at driving a stick, and I am not constantly beating on my car. I regret not looking at reviews and going with a clutch maker like Exedy, but its too late. The South Bend clutch that is currently in my car is now slipping worse than the clutch that was in before it! I also have a question: Is installing a clutch that can handle 350 (or maybe it was 450?) ft tq in a 260-270 hp car bad? That is the only thing I can think of that would be the cause of the clutch going out in four months. I'll try and explain what it feels like: Lets say I am driving normally/cruising in 2nd gear. I let it rev up to 3,000 rpm, then I shift into 3rd gear, I then give it normal gas in order to get into regular driving speeds, as I am slowly giving it gas, the clutch starts to slip and it wont catch after about 1 1/2 seconds of slipping. If I were to go WOT in 2nd gear @ 3000 rpm, then it would pull normally until 4,000 rpm until FULLY giving out and redlining like it is in neutral. I know I am going to have to buy a new clutch, but If I know what I'm doing wrong or what I bought wrong I'll fix it now so I don't have to deal with this again.

I'm not necessary dissing South Bend Stage Clutches, they could have given the wrong stage of clutch etc. I'm just looking for answers.

http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...-Clutches.aspx
EDIT: I just looked at the picture and the clutch looked like the Stage 4 and 4+ in the picture before I installed it! I ordered a stage 3...

 

Did u break it in when u first that put in? Maybe you glazed the clutch.

 

The mechanic told me to not floor it or launch it for 400 miles. I never launched it but I floored it a couple of times during break-in. What does glazing the clutch mean? Thanks.

 

it's when your clutch basically cooks itself into a smooth hard surface and makes it harder for it to grab.

my dad has an old dodge van with a 318 in it. his new clutch glazed and now it chatters and won't engage smoothly when driving normally.

 

It happens when you don't break it in right, not the clutches fault. Either improper break in or installer/bleeding problem

 

My Stage 4 slipped easily for the first month or so, and then once it was past it's break-in period it was like Chuck Norris' hands clenching together whenever my foot wasn't on the clutch pedal. lol It's been that way ever since, over a year, DD, and 17,000+ miles later.

I'm betting you just glazed the clutch. Depending on the material, driving it properly over time will recondition it a bit and it'll start grabbing again. There's a clutch material that once it's glazed, it's glazed, but I can't remember offhand which one it is. I want to say it's Kevlar that perma-glazes, and the Stage 3 is ceramic, so I'm betting you can get it working fine again.

 

what did you do to break it in? whats your primary driving like

also i tell people to break clutches in for 500 miles and if you do a lot of highway driving i recommend 1000 mile to break in. the best thing you can do on a new clutch is shift it(driving normally) as much as you possibly can to break it in.

 

It clamped really good at first - no problems - felt great. Now its like I have to baby it and shift really slowly for it to grip at all.

Do you think South Bend has a warranty for it?

 

I basically drove normally. The only thing I tried to do was shift faster. The mechanic told me not to "hold" the clutch for longer than 3 seconds, and I didn't launch it.

 

holding it in for a certain time doesnt matter. you just want to shift ad much as possible for atleast 500 miles

 

Ok, well I already put about 1200 miles on the clutch. Could it still not be broken in?

 

if its glazed bad enough it might not go away. ive never been a fan of southbends stuff. i only run spec clutches in the cobalts and ive had the best success with them in my f35

 

I appreciate you being honest, I really wasn't expecting the clutch to be salvageable anyway. I will also look at spec clutches for my next one. If I were to get a spec clutch, is there a type you would recommend for my hp?

 

i run the spec stage 3+ and aluminum flywheel. made 442whp 450 ftlbs @6200 and 25psi. ive also ran it more then once at 30psi making more power but i dont brag so i just give the numbers i made on my dd setup. put 30k and over a 100 dyno passes. it never failed me. i dont recommend running an oem flywheel with any aftermarket clutch. ive found some clutch compounds to be too aggressive for the oem stuff. im not sure what kind of power you make.

also i should mention i think the fidanza flywheel is junk. ive had 2 recently where the wholes were drilled correctly. when they would be inline with the crank they would not allow all of the bolts to thread correctly.

 

I know with my KY I kept the rpm's below 3000, did my best to not ride too much on it, and I made sure to install a new clutch pipe on the install, since I've heard stories about it leaking if its not replaced.

I've also read the post where its recommended to try to drive-it-like-ya-stole-it on a glazed clutch, with harder engagements and actually higher rpms during those engagements to try to break a glaze. Didn't work a lick on my toasted stocker clutch!

 

Good info here, now if I ever have $800 laying around... il get a new clutch :|

 

I "should" have 260 hp from what other people are saying with similar setups.

I am definitely not getting rid of my flywheel because it was so expensive. I just can't afford to get another one along with a new clutch. My clutch is really bad right now. Should I drive it hard like the other guy said or is it too late. I'm in no real rush though, I can drive it fine if I'm slow, its just nice to be able to give it a little gas and not have it completely slip to redline.

 

My opinion if it doesn't get better soon take it out and replace it or get a new clutch disk and start over. The flywheel and the pressure plate should be fine. It is possible your mechanic could of accidently touched the clutch with dirty hands which even though it sounds stupid i have seen it cause issues or it wasent broken in enough. if you go with spec stuff a stage 2 or 2+ Will be fine

If the flywheel lines up its fine. like i said its a cheaper flywheel and i dont like fidanza products so i never recommend them. Ive had warped cam gears from them right out of the box.

 

i hate to say it again but the stock flywheel lsj or lnf (same part number but lnf is 2lbs lighter) and a GMPP upgraded clutch with the lnf TOB is 264 bucks and grabs like a champ. I have several writeups and comparison photos of my clutches. Spec 2+ included in those writeups. I made over 400whp 400wtq just 300 miles after installing the new GMPP clutch and it never slipped a bit. Cheap to run, cheap to replace (if you ever had to) and proven on other guys making even more power than me.

 

subd

 

^^^THIS, SPEC Stage 3+ thing never slips ever....Like stock engagement Aluminium Flywheel combo is redic. Excellent Products!

 

I agree, On my LSJ I had this clutch set up and was right around WHP wise that the OP is at and it was an excellent low cost option with stock feel but excellent hold. I know plenty of LSJ turbo guys that run it with high HP applications and it held like glue lol. I forgot you were LSJ for a sec, I would go with the LSJ upgraded clutch because its the best bang for your buck, but really you cant go wrong with either(SPEC 2+ Like Omni said which is what I would recommend from SPEC as well for your HP level or LSJ Upgraded Clutch)

 

I know this is old thread, but southbend clutch requires a 800 mile break in not 400. read the instructions that came with the clutch and u wont have issues.

 

rule of thumb 2 tanks of gas city driving, maybe leaking tob contaminated the disc? unlikely if you dont see any leaks tho...

edit: dat post date