LNF's with KY stage 3
07-14-2012, 05:30 PM
#77
i just installed this kit last week ive got 280 miles on it now everything is working great my only worry is it grabs within the last inch of play on my pedal its my DD and its a bitch on the hills has anyone else ran into this issue if so what helped to bring the engaging point back down....also i have a power bleeder and i know 100% there isnt any air in the system any help would be great thx!
Power bleaders work awesome, HOWEVER dont OVER blead these kits. The pressure plates are SAC (Self Adjusting Clutch) Style. Meaning the adjust to compustate for wear over time. You over adjust and the pressure plate is adjustested to high, and your petal point is now higher. That is why some members are stating this. It is installation error. If you MANUALY blead the system, pump it SLOW on the petal, NOT fast!
Basically word of caution. Nothing will break, or be damaged. Just causes the petal to be a bit higher than it should be. You can do this exact same thing to the STOCK clutch, so this is nothing new.
Now I hope I worded this the best I could as they stated to me. If you have questions, just give Chris @ KY a call, he will be more technical.
Furthermore, one of my SS/TC has a stock clutch still, engagement is at the top from the factory on mine... So I am not sure if some are thinking/hoping it is lower than stock, but to me it seems to be at stock hieght...
Last edited by TurboTechRacing; 07-15-2012 at 12:08 AM.
07-14-2012, 05:50 PM
#81
Thanks, I'm dreading doing the work..
But I have a good set of hands helping out, hopefully it doesn't take tooo long to do.. And I HOPE i can quickly get this 500 miles in.. Autobahn + FREE Dyno day + Best strip of 1/4 mile track in Germany a couple weeks later
But I have a good set of hands helping out, hopefully it doesn't take tooo long to do.. And I HOPE i can quickly get this 500 miles in.. Autobahn + FREE Dyno day + Best strip of 1/4 mile track in Germany a couple weeks later
07-25-2012, 02:31 AM
#83
Senior Member
Good thread and info. Wish i saw this before installing my clutch on saturday. Chatters like a bitch as rissa stated. It vibrates a lot during 1st gear start but that's cause I have mounts. I like the pedal feel, the engagement is almost at the top. Just a little higher than what stock was. I just wish I knew about bleeding it slow. I know they did it manually but I'm not sure if it was slow. I hope the chatter dies down a bit after it's broken in. I only have 100 miles on it though so i can't judge yet.
08-04-2012, 11:30 PM
#84
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anyone use the fidanza flywheel with this clutch?
i was gonna get a stocker from zzp, but seent hat the fidanza is only 7.9lbs, and the stocker is 19lbs!!!
i was gonna get a stocker from zzp, but seent hat the fidanza is only 7.9lbs, and the stocker is 19lbs!!!
08-06-2012, 01:20 PM
#85
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Ok so I figured I'd give a quick update to the low clutch pedal crab issue I was having, and the results of me swapping out the clutch pipe elbow that tested bad. (I hope I'm not thread jacking you btw Rissa. It IS kys3 related and all.... 
.... but if I am.... I'm sorry.. 
)
The new pipe elbow came in today, and upon removing the old elbow there's absolutely no doubt that the issue was indeed a leaking bleeder port. Once I installed the new one, bled it out and took it for a nice long drive in the back roads, oh man what a difference. The engagement is FINALLY like it should be (basically stock), and I no longer look like a baffoon with almost stalling the car out everytime I drive it! lol
I made a very quick video of how to test the bleeder port and what to look for when doing so. Don't mind the crappy video.... I'm very aware of my less than steller ability to make a quality video...... anyways here it is..
Bad ecotec clutch pipe elbow - YouTube
.... but if I am.... I'm sorry.. )The new pipe elbow came in today, and upon removing the old elbow there's absolutely no doubt that the issue was indeed a leaking bleeder port. Once I installed the new one, bled it out and took it for a nice long drive in the back roads, oh man what a difference. The engagement is FINALLY like it should be (basically stock), and I no longer look like a baffoon with almost stalling the car out everytime I drive it! lol
I made a very quick video of how to test the bleeder port and what to look for when doing so. Don't mind the crappy video.... I'm very aware of my less than steller ability to make a quality video..
.... anyways here it is..Bad ecotec clutch pipe elbow - YouTube
08-06-2012, 01:40 PM
#86
How hard is it to install a new clutch pipe elbow? Because I'm having similar issues, my mechanic has re-bled my car twice and my gears are very stiff and seems like its just taking wayyyy too much force to shift gears along with my clutch pedal grabbing right off the floor as well and every time he bleeds it theirs air in there. Is this part inside the tranny?
08-08-2012, 07:00 PM
#87
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How hard is it to install a new clutch pipe elbow? Because I'm having similar issues, my mechanic has re-bled my car twice and my gears are very stiff and seems like its just taking wayyyy too much force to shift gears along with my clutch pedal grabbing right off the floor as well and every time he bleeds it theirs air in there. Is this part inside the tranny?
Before you rush to blame the elbow for being the issue though, I would invest (roughly $25) in a hand vacuum pump that has a gauge on it like the one you saw in the video so you can actually see exactly what's going on. Just remove the cap located on the bleeder port here....
and attach the line from the pump to the port (with the port still tightly shut) and pump up the pressure until you see roughly 20"hg of vacuum on the gauge. If the pressure holds solid then you know there is no leak from the port, but if the pressure drops off like it did in the video then you know the port is not seating closed correctly (test that your pump and vacuum line is good to confirm your results first).Before you replace the entire elbow you can first try simply applying a thin layer of a thread sealant (like this http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm) to ONLY the threads (not the pointed end of the bleeder fitting) and see if that helps. This sealant is designed for high pressure systems that has (and will) work fine for a minor air leak. If the sealant trick does not work then you will most likely need to replace the entire elbow and rebleed the system with your cool new handy vacuum pump (remember to install the small plastic catch canister in line between the bleeder port and the pump itself to catch the hydraulic fluid you will be sucking out of the system.... and obviously have a full bottle of dot3 fluid near by to keep the fluid topped off)..
If you have any questions about removing the elbow itself feel free to PM me if you'd like..
08-08-2012, 07:25 PM
#88
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The clutch pipe elbow (or distribution block) is located on top of the trans near the ecm and is very easy swap and should REALISTICALLY take 30 minutes or so start to finish (lol at taking 5 minutes to swap out)..
Before you rush to blame the elbow for being the issue though, I would invest (roughly $25) in a hand vacuum pump that has a gauge on it like the one you saw in the video so you can actually see exactly what's going on. Just remove the cap located on the bleeder port here....
and attach the line from the pump to the port (with the port still tightly shut) and pump up the pressure until you see roughly 20"hg of vacuum on the gauge. If the pressure holds solid then you know there is no leak from the port, but if the pressure drops off like it did in the video then you know the port is not seating closed correctly (test that your pump and vacuum line is good to confirm your results first).
Before you replace the entire elbow you can first try simply applying a thin layer of a thread sealant (like this http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm) to ONLY the threads (not the pointed end of the bleeder fitting) and see if that helps. This sealant is designed for high pressure systems that has (and will) work fine for a minor air leak. If the sealant trick does not work then you will most likely need to replace the entire elbow and rebleed the system with your cool new handy vacuum pump (remember to install the small plastic catch canister in line between the bleeder port and the pump itself to catch the hydraulic fluid you will be sucking out of the system.... and obviously have a full bottle of dot3 fluid near by to keep the fluid topped off)..
If you have any questions about removing the elbow itself feel free to PM me if you'd like..
Before you rush to blame the elbow for being the issue though, I would invest (roughly $25) in a hand vacuum pump that has a gauge on it like the one you saw in the video so you can actually see exactly what's going on. Just remove the cap located on the bleeder port here....
and attach the line from the pump to the port (with the port still tightly shut) and pump up the pressure until you see roughly 20"hg of vacuum on the gauge. If the pressure holds solid then you know there is no leak from the port, but if the pressure drops off like it did in the video then you know the port is not seating closed correctly (test that your pump and vacuum line is good to confirm your results first).Before you replace the entire elbow you can first try simply applying a thin layer of a thread sealant (like this http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm) to ONLY the threads (not the pointed end of the bleeder fitting) and see if that helps. This sealant is designed for high pressure systems that has (and will) work fine for a minor air leak. If the sealant trick does not work then you will most likely need to replace the entire elbow and rebleed the system with your cool new handy vacuum pump (remember to install the small plastic catch canister in line between the bleeder port and the pump itself to catch the hydraulic fluid you will be sucking out of the system.... and obviously have a full bottle of dot3 fluid near by to keep the fluid topped off)..
If you have any questions about removing the elbow itself feel free to PM me if you'd like..
08-08-2012, 07:54 PM
#89
I dont beleive the bleed nipple is not an issue, and if it is, as it seats on the tapered end, sealant in the threads is just not a real good approach. I have never seen a bad nipple on a clutch dist. block. In fact, never seen a bad block. Lots of crummy installs and lots of weird trouble on the internet. Never had a problem stock other than back in 2005 racing cobalts we ran into leaving the old seal behind in the dist. block by accident and then putting it on a new clutch pipe. = two seals, no good.
Kinda like changing a spin on oil filter; the old seal can get left behind causes trouble with leaks (of course)
Kinda like changing a spin on oil filter; the old seal can get left behind causes trouble with leaks (of course)
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 08-08-2012 at 08:01 PM.
08-08-2012, 08:04 PM
#90
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the bleed nipple is not an issue, and if it is, as it seats on the tapered end, sealant in the threads is just not a real good approach. I have never seen a bad nipple on a clutch dist. block. In fact, never seen a bad block. Lots of crummy installs and lots of weird trouble on the internet. Never had a problem stock other than back in 2005 racing cobalts we ran into leaving the old seal behind in the dist. block by accident and then putting it on a new clutch pipe. = two seals, no good.
Kinda like changing a spin on oil filter; the old seal can get left behind causes trouble with leaks (of course)
Kinda like changing a spin on oil filter; the old seal can get left behind causes trouble with leaks (of course)
Long and short of it. Clutch system kept pulling in air causing me to lose my pedal, found the block wouldn't hold pressure, found new block did hold pressure, installed new block, issue gone..
08-10-2012, 02:47 PM
#91
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so suggested parts include the clutch kit/alignment tool, clutch pipe, and adjustable clutch rod? And as well a new gm flywheel and bolts? is that it? What about a new master cylinder with the clutch rod already installed from zzp?
09-25-2012, 02:10 PM
#92
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Im just surprised no one has used a lightweight flywheel with this, or has any input on it at all.. Especially since they are all around the same price new, yet the aluminum ones are way lighter.
09-26-2012, 06:58 PM
#94
No you're right, the sealant is definitely just a band-aid BUT that is what allowed me to keep driving my car until the new block came in the mail. Obviously you have far more experience with deltas than I ever will, so please by no means take this as me trying to school you, but the bleeder port on my block not doubt had issues. The crummy video I made sort of points out the issue I was having with mine pretty well I think (and no there was no debris in the way of the tappered end to inhibit a good seal).
Long and short of it. Clutch system kept pulling in air causing me to lose my pedal, found the block wouldn't hold pressure, found new block did hold pressure, installed new block, issue gone..
Long and short of it. Clutch system kept pulling in air causing me to lose my pedal, found the block wouldn't hold pressure, found new block did hold pressure, installed new block, issue gone..
09-26-2012, 09:10 PM
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11-28-2012, 01:17 PM
#99
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I still don't know about this clutch, so many people having less than favorable responses. Granted they're all install issues, but since I won't be installing my clutch, I don't think I should go this route. I feel like I won't be able to communicate with the shop effectively thus giving me less than favorable results from this clutch
Perhaps Clutchmaster or ZZP for me. The install seems to work for those people no matter what happens.
Perhaps Clutchmaster or ZZP for me. The install seems to work for those people no matter what happens.
12-05-2012, 07:27 AM
#100
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I have about 400 miles on my stg3 in my lsj, and i get heavy chatter when the clutch is disengaged. I installed a new TOB with the clutch, but it seems to me like the TOB is mucked as the chatter is only present when load is on the TOB. You can even feel it in the peddle. Any thoughts?