LNF's with KY stage 3
05-31-2012, 09:57 PM
#51
Senior Member
get which ever one holds the torque
i'm ordering my replacement directly from KY so idk which stage is which i just told them the power i make is the same as before when i ordered the first one, they are really nice guys
i'm ordering my replacement directly from KY so idk which stage is which i just told them the power i make is the same as before when i ordered the first one, they are really nice guys
05-31-2012, 10:14 PM
#52
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
hmmm did you lose all your fluid on the ground??
i just recently experienced clutch issues and being told my slave has failed, the pressure comes back periodically, doesn't really hold long and the pedal engages all the way at the floor, but did notice that all my dot3 leaks out of the car
i just recently experienced clutch issues and being told my slave has failed, the pressure comes back periodically, doesn't really hold long and the pedal engages all the way at the floor, but did notice that all my dot3 leaks out of the car
06-02-2012, 09:27 AM
#53
Senior Member
I actually had no fluid loss at all. I even checked inside of the bell housing through the inspection port and it was completely dry in there as well. I was however apparently sucking in a bunch of air through the crappy bleeder port which would cause me to lose most of the pedal feel until it was eventually basically undriveable.
06-12-2012, 05:43 PM
#55
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I'm going to be installing my clutch right before I go on a trip carlisle PA I was just wondering if I should give it a break in period before doing 700 miles? Wondering if anyone has any advice !
06-13-2012, 08:09 PM
#58
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i was told not to drive highway when i broke my clutch in...so i putted around town like a g-ma not going above 3500rpms for 500 miles, hardest thing to do in my life
06-14-2012, 08:31 AM
#69
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I had a KY3, resurfaced flywheel. It only chattered when I didn't give it enough gas off a start, and sometimes I would get the 1st gear squeal. And my pedal engament was at the very tip top, made daily driving it a challenge. I put 13k+ miles on it before I sold it and as far as I know it's still holding, and I NLS'd religiously.
06-16-2012, 12:30 AM
#72
Platinum Member
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There are some that say you don't have to, but I would strongly suggest removing it. It just frees up a ton of room down there and honestly makes things alot easier. You may want to invest in an engine support bar though if you don't already have one. Otherwise the entire drivetrain has nothing to support it once you pull the subframe.
06-22-2012, 05:58 PM
#74
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1) it gives you MUCH more room to work under the car or truck
2) there is no chance of accidentally knocking the stand out from under the engine
3) there is no chance of damaging the oil pan, or engine/engine componants being supported.
I've seen guys in the past use stacked 2x4's as a support bar, but that's just way too ghetto for my taste to be honest, and is just a knucklehead move in my book.. lol
Here's the bar that I have personally.. 1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar. It's by no means the absolute best bar out there, but the price is amazing and it has worked great for me the times I have needed it.
06-29-2012, 01:42 AM
#75
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i just installed this kit last week ive got 280 miles on it now everything is working great my only worry is it grabs within the last inch of play on my pedal its my DD and its a bitch on the hills has anyone else ran into this issue if so what helped to bring the engaging point back down....also i have a power bleeder and i know 100% there isnt any air in the system any help would be great thx!