Drivetrain Transmission, LSD, Clutch, Driveline, Axles...

LuK Flywheel Updates

Old 07-05-2017, 07:24 PM
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Good to hear
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharkey View Post
rock auto currently is out of stock on the Luk flywheel. they have another brand, ams. i wonder if they were out of stock on the luk and just sent you the other one instead.
Which is funny, cause I looked just 5 minutes ago and it said they had 2 in stock. I noticed when I looked at the pictures to see what it showed.
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:28 PM
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Went and looked at the AMS one, and that definitely looks like it. someone bought both and returned the AMS one in the LUK box...
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ThePanduuh View Post
Went and looked at the AMS one, and that definitely looks like it. someone bought both and returned the AMS one in the LUK box...
That's a possibility. Like I said, I would return it, and see if they really do have 2 left of the LuK, and if not grab one from the link I posted earlier. Still cheaper than the ZZP one, and funny thing is I just saw a post from someone else in another thread about 30 minutes ago stating the one they got from them was stamped "made in China"
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Tdubbs
That's a possibility. Like I said, I would return it, and see if they really do have 2 left of the LuK, and if not grab one from the link I posted earlier. Still cheaper than the ZZP one, and funny thing is I just saw a post from someone else in another thread about 30 minutes ago stating the one they got from them was stamped "made in China"
Returning it tomorrow and pay paling $206.38 for an OEM flywheel off Facebook group. True OEM LNF 0 miles he mounted it and found out it wouldn't work for his Saab. I'm happy
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Old 07-07-2017, 09:22 AM
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So i just looked at the pictures you uploaded again, and it does say made in China on the LuK box, but it's also dated in May of this year. I wonder if they decided to start making them there. I don't remember what the box for mine said, but the wheel itself was stamped Germany so I'm assuming they either have 2 places of manufacture, or they just changed over recently and it's made elsewhere now.
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Old 07-07-2017, 02:52 PM
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The Luk FW I installed was stamped Germany?
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Old 07-07-2017, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by T-Man View Post
The Luk FW I installed was stamped Germany?
Same. That's why I'm wondering if they outsourced to China. The pics he posted show the LuK box saying "Made in China". And comparing the pics of the flywheel with the other brand AMS that Rockauto sells, they look similar, but there are a lot more numbers on his LuK he got, suggesting different manufacturer/place of manufacture as a possibility.

I bought mine from AutoPartsWarehouse for $119, and it seems they went up to $134, but now the question is do you get the genuine "Made in Germany" part, or this new one.
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Old 07-07-2017, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Tdubbs View Post
Same. That's why I'm wondering if they outsourced to China. The pics he posted show the LuK box saying "Made in China". And comparing the pics of the flywheel with the other brand AMS that Rockauto sells, they look similar, but there are a lot more numbers on his LuK he got, suggesting different manufacturer/place of manufacture as a possibility.

I bought mine from AutoPartsWarehouse for $119, and it seems they went up to $134, but now the question is do you get the genuine "Made in Germany" part, or this new one.
What's crazy is that I purchased mine from RockAuto!
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:55 PM
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I'll be happy once I get my damn work van at the end of this month, as I've had to drive my car quite a few times since my last update in June. Can't complain too much though, I get to drive my car, and I can keep this long term update going for you guys.

So, with all the previous driving, and what I'll be doing next week, I'll have about 17k total on the combo, with around 6k of that being with the Z54. Still going strong for what I ask of it, so we'll see.

Everybody always said how good the GMPP was for the money, but from everything I've seen nobody really said how long it would survive with a bigger turbo or bigger numbers than the K04 would put out, so maybe I'll be the first to post some sort of data on that. Still need to find time to hock the car onto a dyno for numbers as it sits, hopefully have time to do that soon.
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Old 08-06-2017, 09:49 AM
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fwiw, Ecaulk has been on the GMPP clutch with a k04+ for 60k+ miles and it still holds just fine.
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Old 08-06-2017, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by leemanfor View Post
fwiw, Ecaulk has been on the GMPP clutch with a k04+ for 60k+ miles and it still holds just fine.
And about 15k of that was on e47. It still holds if I boost in 4th around 3500, I also don't have my boost to snap to 25psi instantly, its a slightly slower ramp.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:08 PM
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Dowel size

Does anyone know if the LUK flywheel has 6 or 8mm dowels?

thanks
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by freeman
Does anyone know if the LUK flywheel has 6 or 8mm dowels?

thanks
I'm unsure about the exact measurement, but the GMPP/OEM LNF pressure plate will need spacers around the dowel pins to be a tight fit. So my guess would be 6mm if LNF PP is 8mm.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:57 AM
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I just got my LUK off backorder from amazon. No big Made in Germany......Damn.
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:20 AM
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Houston, we have a problem

Clutch is acting weird, with no reason as to why. I had to take it to Ohio(still there) since they haven't gotten me my damn work van yet, and the clutch feels like something dropped on it. The killer is how it started acting up.

Left my house, and it seemed fine. Hopped onto the interstate, and it was fine all the way to 5th gear. Stayed in 5th for a good 5hrs straight, and as I was coming up to traffic I went to downshift and the pedal was extremely soft, and wouldn't let me into 4th. Pumped it 3 times, and it's gone into gear ever since, but the clutch feels like it was when first installed(grabs right off the floor feeling). Still holds 3rd gear wot, no slipping, just doesn't feel quite right.

Fluid level hasn't dropped, no signs of leaks anywhere, tob seems to have full range of motion looking through side of trans with someone pushing pedal. Any ideas on what it could be? Pressure plate failing? Master cylinder? Let me know your thoughts.
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Tdubbs
Houston, we have a problem

Clutch is acting weird, with no reason as to why. I had to take it to Ohio(still there) since they haven't gotten me my damn work van yet, and the clutch feels like something dropped on it. The killer is how it started acting up.

Left my house, and it seemed fine. Hopped onto the interstate, and it was fine all the way to 5th gear. Stayed in 5th for a good 5hrs straight, and as I was coming up to traffic I went to downshift and the pedal was extremely soft, and wouldn't let me into 4th. Pumped it 3 times, and it's gone into gear ever since, but the clutch feels like it was when first installed(grabs right off the floor feeling). Still holds 3rd gear wot, no slipping, just doesn't feel quite right.

Fluid level hasn't dropped, no signs of leaks anywhere, tob seems to have full range of motion looking through side of trans with someone pushing pedal. Any ideas on what it could be? Pressure plate failing? Master cylinder? Let me know your thoughts.
My guess would be air in system. When my car sat for a week while I was on vacation I had this happen. Pedal to the floor and grabbed right away. Worked after I pumped it several times...
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ThePanduuh View Post
My guess would be air in system. When my car sat for a week while I was on vacation I had this happen. Pedal to the floor and grabbed right away. Worked after I pumped it several times...
I'm hoping that it's something simple like that. I'm going to try and get a vacuum pump from the local parts store tonight to test that theory. If that's not it, and it survives getting me back home, I may throw a master at it, since that's the only part I never changed when I did the clutch 20k ago. And for $60, I'll take that gamble to try vs having to drop the trans to see what's going on.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Tdubbs
I'm hoping that it's something simple like that. I'm going to try and get a vacuum pump from the local parts store tonight to test that theory. If that's not it, and it survives getting me back home, I may throw a master at it, since that's the only part I never changed when I did the clutch 20k ago. And for $60, I'll take that gamble to try vs having to drop the trans to see what's going on.
I have 115k I did my clutch about 2500 miles ago afaik still the OEM factory master. For $60 I should have changed that too...
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Old 09-19-2017, 05:09 PM
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So I'm leaning towards ingress of air or the master. No local auto parts stores where I am have a vacuum pump for me to try and use, but when I left the customer just now and pumped it a few times the pedal seems to be a bit stiffer yet. Still no loss of fluid level or visible leaks, so I have a master already ordered and it should be at my house when I get back. Already had to change the oil this weekend, so what's a little extra work
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Old 09-21-2017, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Tdubbs View Post
So I'm leaning towards ingress of air or the master. No local auto parts stores where I am have a vacuum pump for me to try and use, but when I left the customer just now and pumped it a few times the pedal seems to be a bit stiffer yet. Still no loss of fluid level or visible leaks, so I have a master already ordered and it should be at my house when I get back. Already had to change the oil this weekend, so what's a little extra work
Best of luck with it. It's an absolute pain in the ass but well worth the hassle.

Also, check out motive bleeders. Best investment I've made for all of my hydraulic actuated clutch cars.

Edit - I'd be willing to bet that the air finding its way into your system is the brake fluid breaking down. I'm a firm believer of changing the reservoir fluid and bleeding through the trans bleeder as often as possible if you drive the car hard and or drive the car hard in a high heat climate.

I do mine every 1500-2000 miles. Might seem excessive to some but it clears up notchy shifting and the "gear lock out" that some might experience when trying to downshift.
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Old 09-21-2017, 01:41 PM
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Get yourself a bleeder from harbor freight. Called a Mityvac

put about 10 psi of pressure and leave it for about 10 minutes. then relieve the pressure, and pump 5 or 10 times. that should bleed it fine
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Old 09-21-2017, 01:46 PM
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You mean 10inHg not pressure.

I will also second how ******* awesome the motive bleeders are for the brake system, for the clutch the mityvac works well for removing the air bubbles
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Old 09-21-2017, 01:46 PM
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nah. ALL THE PSI

yeah i mean hg.
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Old 09-21-2017, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by leemanfor View Post
nah. ALL THE PSI

yeah i mean hg.
subi guys all the boost then ringlands
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