LuK Flywheel Updates
07-05-2017, 07:24 PM
#52
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Which is funny, cause I looked just 5 minutes ago and it said they had 2 in stock. I noticed when I looked at the pictures to see what it showed.
07-05-2017, 07:32 PM
#54
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That's a possibility. Like I said, I would return it, and see if they really do have 2 left of the LuK, and if not grab one from the link I posted earlier. Still cheaper than the ZZP one, and funny thing is I just saw a post from someone else in another thread about 30 minutes ago stating the one they got from them was stamped "made in China"
07-05-2017, 07:33 PM
#55
Originally Posted by Tdubbs
That's a possibility. Like I said, I would return it, and see if they really do have 2 left of the LuK, and if not grab one from the link I posted earlier. Still cheaper than the ZZP one, and funny thing is I just saw a post from someone else in another thread about 30 minutes ago stating the one they got from them was stamped "made in China"
07-07-2017, 09:22 AM
#56
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So i just looked at the pictures you uploaded again, and it does say made in China on the LuK box, but it's also dated in May of this year. I wonder if they decided to start making them there. I don't remember what the box for mine said, but the wheel itself was stamped Germany so I'm assuming they either have 2 places of manufacture, or they just changed over recently and it's made elsewhere now.
07-07-2017, 04:54 PM
#58
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Same. That's why I'm wondering if they outsourced to China. The pics he posted show the LuK box saying "Made in China". And comparing the pics of the flywheel with the other brand AMS that Rockauto sells, they look similar, but there are a lot more numbers on his LuK he got, suggesting different manufacturer/place of manufacture as a possibility.
I bought mine from AutoPartsWarehouse for $119, and it seems they went up to $134, but now the question is do you get the genuine "Made in Germany" part, or this new one.
I bought mine from AutoPartsWarehouse for $119, and it seems they went up to $134, but now the question is do you get the genuine "Made in Germany" part, or this new one.
07-07-2017, 06:07 PM
#59
Same. That's why I'm wondering if they outsourced to China. The pics he posted show the LuK box saying "Made in China". And comparing the pics of the flywheel with the other brand AMS that Rockauto sells, they look similar, but there are a lot more numbers on his LuK he got, suggesting different manufacturer/place of manufacture as a possibility.
I bought mine from AutoPartsWarehouse for $119, and it seems they went up to $134, but now the question is do you get the genuine "Made in Germany" part, or this new one.
I bought mine from AutoPartsWarehouse for $119, and it seems they went up to $134, but now the question is do you get the genuine "Made in Germany" part, or this new one.
08-05-2017, 08:55 PM
#60
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'll be happy once I get my damn work van at the end of this month, as I've had to drive my car quite a few times since my last update in June. Can't complain too much though, I get to drive my car
, and I can keep this long term update going for you guys.
So, with all the previous driving, and what I'll be doing next week, I'll have about 17k total on the combo, with around 6k of that being with the Z54. Still going strong for what I ask of it, so we'll see.
Everybody always said how good the GMPP was for the money, but from everything I've seen nobody really said how long it would survive with a bigger turbo or bigger numbers than the K04 would put out, so maybe I'll be the first to post some sort of data on that. Still need to find time to hock the car onto a dyno for numbers as it sits, hopefully have time to do that soon.
, and I can keep this long term update going for you guys.So, with all the previous driving, and what I'll be doing next week, I'll have about 17k total on the combo, with around 6k of that being with the Z54. Still going strong for what I ask of it, so we'll see.
Everybody always said how good the GMPP was for the money, but from everything I've seen nobody really said how long it would survive with a bigger turbo or bigger numbers than the K04 would put out, so maybe I'll be the first to post some sort of data on that. Still need to find time to hock the car onto a dyno for numbers as it sits, hopefully have time to do that soon.
08-10-2017, 11:24 PM
#64
Originally Posted by freeman
Does anyone know if the LUK flywheel has 6 or 8mm dowels?
thanks
thanks
09-19-2017, 09:20 AM
#66
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Houston, we have a problem 
Clutch is acting weird, with no reason as to why. I had to take it to Ohio(still there) since they haven't gotten me my damn work van yet, and the clutch feels like something dropped on it. The killer is how it started acting up.
Left my house, and it seemed fine. Hopped onto the interstate, and it was fine all the way to 5th gear. Stayed in 5th for a good 5hrs straight, and as I was coming up to traffic I went to downshift and the pedal was extremely soft, and wouldn't let me into 4th. Pumped it 3 times, and it's gone into gear ever since, but the clutch feels like it was when first installed(grabs right off the floor feeling). Still holds 3rd gear wot, no slipping, just doesn't feel quite right.
Fluid level hasn't dropped, no signs of leaks anywhere, tob seems to have full range of motion looking through side of trans with someone pushing pedal. Any ideas on what it could be? Pressure plate failing? Master cylinder? Let me know your thoughts.
Clutch is acting weird, with no reason as to why. I had to take it to Ohio(still there) since they haven't gotten me my damn work van yet, and the clutch feels like something dropped on it. The killer is how it started acting up.
Left my house, and it seemed fine. Hopped onto the interstate, and it was fine all the way to 5th gear. Stayed in 5th for a good 5hrs straight, and as I was coming up to traffic I went to downshift and the pedal was extremely soft, and wouldn't let me into 4th. Pumped it 3 times, and it's gone into gear ever since, but the clutch feels like it was when first installed(grabs right off the floor feeling). Still holds 3rd gear wot, no slipping, just doesn't feel quite right.
Fluid level hasn't dropped, no signs of leaks anywhere, tob seems to have full range of motion looking through side of trans with someone pushing pedal. Any ideas on what it could be? Pressure plate failing? Master cylinder? Let me know your thoughts.
09-19-2017, 09:27 AM
#67
Originally Posted by Tdubbs
Houston, we have a problem
Clutch is acting weird, with no reason as to why. I had to take it to Ohio(still there) since they haven't gotten me my damn work van yet, and the clutch feels like something dropped on it. The killer is how it started acting up.
Left my house, and it seemed fine. Hopped onto the interstate, and it was fine all the way to 5th gear. Stayed in 5th for a good 5hrs straight, and as I was coming up to traffic I went to downshift and the pedal was extremely soft, and wouldn't let me into 4th. Pumped it 3 times, and it's gone into gear ever since, but the clutch feels like it was when first installed(grabs right off the floor feeling). Still holds 3rd gear wot, no slipping, just doesn't feel quite right.
Fluid level hasn't dropped, no signs of leaks anywhere, tob seems to have full range of motion looking through side of trans with someone pushing pedal. Any ideas on what it could be? Pressure plate failing? Master cylinder? Let me know your thoughts.
Clutch is acting weird, with no reason as to why. I had to take it to Ohio(still there) since they haven't gotten me my damn work van yet, and the clutch feels like something dropped on it. The killer is how it started acting up.
Left my house, and it seemed fine. Hopped onto the interstate, and it was fine all the way to 5th gear. Stayed in 5th for a good 5hrs straight, and as I was coming up to traffic I went to downshift and the pedal was extremely soft, and wouldn't let me into 4th. Pumped it 3 times, and it's gone into gear ever since, but the clutch feels like it was when first installed(grabs right off the floor feeling). Still holds 3rd gear wot, no slipping, just doesn't feel quite right.
Fluid level hasn't dropped, no signs of leaks anywhere, tob seems to have full range of motion looking through side of trans with someone pushing pedal. Any ideas on what it could be? Pressure plate failing? Master cylinder? Let me know your thoughts.
09-19-2017, 10:18 AM
#68
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm hoping that it's something simple like that. I'm going to try and get a vacuum pump from the local parts store tonight to test that theory. If that's not it, and it survives getting me back home, I may throw a master at it, since that's the only part I never changed when I did the clutch 20k ago. And for $60, I'll take that gamble to try vs having to drop the trans to see what's going on.
09-19-2017, 10:22 AM
#69
Originally Posted by Tdubbs
I'm hoping that it's something simple like that. I'm going to try and get a vacuum pump from the local parts store tonight to test that theory. If that's not it, and it survives getting me back home, I may throw a master at it, since that's the only part I never changed when I did the clutch 20k ago. And for $60, I'll take that gamble to try vs having to drop the trans to see what's going on.
09-19-2017, 05:09 PM
#70
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So I'm leaning towards ingress of air or the master. No local auto parts stores where I am have a vacuum pump for me to try and use, but when I left the customer just now and pumped it a few times the pedal seems to be a bit stiffer yet. Still no loss of fluid level or visible leaks, so I have a master already ordered and it should be at my house when I get back. Already had to change the oil this weekend, so what's a little extra work
09-21-2017, 01:36 PM
#71
So I'm leaning towards ingress of air or the master. No local auto parts stores where I am have a vacuum pump for me to try and use, but when I left the customer just now and pumped it a few times the pedal seems to be a bit stiffer yet. Still no loss of fluid level or visible leaks, so I have a master already ordered and it should be at my house when I get back. Already had to change the oil this weekend, so what's a little extra work
Also, check out motive bleeders. Best investment I've made for all of my hydraulic actuated clutch cars.
Edit - I'd be willing to bet that the air finding its way into your system is the brake fluid breaking down. I'm a firm believer of changing the reservoir fluid and bleeding through the trans bleeder as often as possible if you drive the car hard and or drive the car hard in a high heat climate.
I do mine every 1500-2000 miles. Might seem excessive to some but it clears up notchy shifting and the "gear lock out" that some might experience when trying to downshift.
09-21-2017, 01:41 PM
#72
Get yourself a bleeder from harbor freight. Called a Mityvac
put about 10 psi of pressure and leave it for about 10 minutes. then relieve the pressure, and pump 5 or 10 times. that should bleed it fine
put about 10 psi of pressure and leave it for about 10 minutes. then relieve the pressure, and pump 5 or 10 times. that should bleed it fine
09-21-2017, 01:46 PM
#73