running 185 degrees for 20 mins, stop to meet a guy to sell my subs.

Im sitting 5 mins maybe and i look down and I'm at 215 degrees!

instantly just turn off the motor and the heat on high for about 5 mins that cooled it down and then i drove it and it went back down to 185-190

what would cause this?

i/c pump is working.

 

air pocket in the system, ur fans may not be kicking on, thermostat may be goin out..thers a couple things it can be if ur ic pump is for sure working

 

temp goes up if idling for a while on a sunny summer day due to the lack of cooling flow. 215 sounds a little high to me - I usually see ~ 200 while idling on a hot summer day - but it's colder up here.

 

215 honestly isn't that hot. These motors are made to run really warm so if it's below like 225 you really don't need to worry. One way to keep temps down though is to get a tune and have the fans set to 100% duty cycle all the time and it will keep temps a lot cooler when idling

 

its about 65-70 and dark..

Ill check fans tomorrow, how can i check any of the other stuff?

 

That's not overheating. The fans don't turn on until 224 if you don't have the A/C on. Perfectly normal. Anything over 235 could be cause for concern.

 

oh ok cool, i was told if it hit 210 then to worry.. just sold my subs might go for a tune this weekend depends on how much the guy charges

 

210 is nothing with these cars. That's like normal town driving in the summer

 

224? mine kick at 210 but never get ther unless im idling forever on a hot day

 

oh gotcha good to know. thanks man!

 

James might've tuned you to that. Mine are tuned to run all the time after the car is warmed up.

 

yah youre fine, but just to let you know, if you shut the car off and turn the heat on it isn't going to do ****. you have to keep the motor running, preferably at a higher RPM than idle (2500) and turn the heat up

 

yeah but the way i looked at it was if its blowing hot air its taking heat of the motor.. has to work some i would think

 

The only way turning the heat on works is because it takes the heat away from the coolant that's flowing and blows it in the car. If the car is off, no coolant is flowing so its not doing much good. Only reason it cooled down when you shut it off is simply because it wasn't running anymore. And you shouldn't shut it off immediately if its kinda hot anyways, just turn the heat on while its running and let it cool off.

 

I/C pump has nothing to do with coolant temps shown. 215 is perfectly normal when sitting for a while.

 

keep in mind that our water pumps are timing chain driven, therefore the water pump spins faster and has more flow the higher rpms it goes. my car sitting at idle will go up to 220 but then the fan will kick on. i sit between 180 and 190 at normal driving.

 

thats true I was worried about it but now I'm fine with it, it only get warm when sitting or driving thru town cause all the stops and slow moving

 

If u had ac off that's fine.... If u had it on... I would check fans and if working I would replace t-stat

 

yep turn your ac on for a quick fix until you source the actual problem

 

Stock is 195* tstat and 224* fan turn on.

Ive ran it up to 248* at the track without any problems (but dont do that)

 

The engine cooling fan system consists of 2 electrical cooling fans and 3 fan relays. The relays are arranged in a series/parallel configuration that allows the powertrain control module (PCM) to operate both fans together at low or high speeds. The cooling fans and fan relays receive battery positive voltage from the underhood junction block. The ground path is provided at G105.

During low speed operation, the PCM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan 1 relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the cool fan 1 fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the left cooling fan. The ground path for the left cooling fan is through the cooling fan s/p relay and the right cooling fan. The result is a series circuit with both fans running at low speed.

During high speed operation the PCM supplies the ground path for the cooling fan 1 relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. After a 3 second delay, the PCM supplies a ground path for the cooling fan 2 relay and the cooling fan s/p relay through the high speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan s/p relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and provides a ground path for the left cooling fan. At the same time the cooling fan 2 relay coil is energized closing the relay contacts and provides battery positive voltage from the cool fan 2 fuse on the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the right cooling fan. During high speed fan operation, both engine cooling fans have their own ground path. The result is a parallel circuit with both fans running at high speed.

The PCM commands Low Speed Fans ON under the following conditions:




•

Engine coolant temperature (ECT) exceeds approximately 106°C (223°F).





•

A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1 310 kPa (190 psi).





•

After the vehicle is shut off, the ECT at key-off is greater than 140°C (284°F) and system voltage is more than 12 volts. The fans will stay on for approximately 3 minutes.


The PCM commands High Speed Fans ON under the following conditions:




•

ECT reaches 110°C (230°F).





•

A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1 655 kPa (240 psi).





•

When certain DTCs set


When the request for fan activation is withdrawn, the fan may not turn OFF until the ignition switch is moved to the OFF position or the vehicle speed exceeds approximately 10 mph. This is to prevent a fan from cycling ON and OFF excessively at idle


this is for the 2.0l lsj

 

Ic pump issue? Or the fans arent turning on.

 

^this

IC pump is only for IAT2 intake temps, and is completely separate from the engine coolant temp itself.

The water pump that is run by the engine itself via a chain is what pumps the engine coolant. The thermistat opens and closes to help control coolant temps, and the fans kick in at set points when the thermistat needs some help bringing the coolant temp back down. The water pumps on these cars rarely fail, so if it actually becomes a problem later, check engine coolant level, and if that's fine, consider replacing the thermistat.

Sometimes the thermistats will get "stuck" either open or closed, causing the coolant temps to either not rise to the proper temps, or rise past the proper temps and not cool. A way to tell that a thermistat could be needing to be replaced soon are the symptoms just mentioned or if the temps rise above where they should be after a cold start and then suddenly drop all the way back to normal.

What the OP described is normal though. No air is passing through the radiator when the car is sitting, so very little heat is getting shed by the radiator until air starts moving through it, either due to wind from the car moving, or the fans kicking on.

 

I havent seen over 180 degrees in like 2 years, even on hott summer days. SUCKERS!!! lol