cw383

iTrader: (6)

I've already did a clutch change and an engine swap, both times I bled the clutch to what I would call my satisfaction. Here is 2 questions for someone in the know.

1: Both times I did mine I bled it at the distribution block on the trans, The first time It was all manual pumping, second time I used a power bleeder. Now in looking thru the forums I see bleeding being done thru the master cyl using a stopper and power bleeder to pull vacuum. Was I doing it wrong? Does it matter?

2: Can you over bleed them? I seem to recall reading somewhere if you bleed it too much you can use up some of the self adjusting depth on the TOB. Sounds silly, but I do get clutch engagement a few inches off the floor and I wonder if that may be why?

I also notice I sometimes get locked out of second when I try to speed shift. I wonder if any of this may have something to do with that?

royce777

iTrader: (29)

Every time I've done it I manually bleed it with two people. Just to be safe I drive it a few miles and rebleed.

cw383

iTrader: (6)

Did you bleed it from the brake reservoir or the bleeder on the trans?

royce777

iTrader: (29)

the bleeder on the trans

T-Man

iTrader: (3)

In order to ensure zero air in the system, best bet is to bleed all four corners and then hit the trans bleeder. It's a shared reservoir for both the brakes and the clutch MC/slave.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

I always vacuum bleed though the reservoir as per the factory instructions. Works great, delivers a nice pedal after 3-4 cycles, no mess, can be done solo.

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Bleed mine with two people just pumping and then releasing at the nipple on the fitting that goes into the transmission. Pump, pump, pump and then release until air quit coming out. Only did the procedure once and haven't had a spongy clutch feel or any other issues.

2slo3oh

I have always used a pump bleeder at the trans.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

This. Easy, quick, works within a few cycles, and doesn't get fluid everywhere.