So I bought a new trans & gmpp clutch/ zzp lightweight flywheel. I'm @ 172,000 miles with no problems besides a tired clutch engagement but still holds (original clutch) I'm trying to line myself properly & not have this trans stressed out by old parts. Any ideas on what else I should change out while getting this done? I figured I should probably replace the intermediate shaft bearing while everything is apart. Can I use a Saab 12785906 intermediate shaft bearing instead of gm. They are cheaper to buy through Amazon & will get to me faster. Probably gonna change wheel hub/ bearings as well.. Any preference on brands for wheel hub/ bearing?
T.I.A.

 

get new outer tie rods that have the little allen wrench bit on it that allows you to keep it from spinning when you are tightening or loosening them.

those usually get destroyed during removal

may as well just plan that in there just in case

prolly
i used Timken for front hub assemblies..fwiw

oh and get a new clutch slave cylinder, clutch pipe, clutch distribution block (u cant buy the oring you need to replace seperately) and if you really wanna ball out, a new clutch master cylinder. may as well since its all gonna need to be bled . i would.

lmk if u get stuck i just did all that on mine

 

Right on Stone. Ya I'm ordering a pair of timken wheel hub assembly. I already bought the stock master cylinder & clutch elbow aka distribution block. I even bought a stainless clutch line from goodridge. New ottp upper trans mount
( already have stage 2 trans mounts)Ottp stage 1 axles. I have moog outer tie rod ends with 20,000 miles so they are good. Rebuilt intermediate shaft. Inner tie rod ends I have no idea on condition. The car drives great right now. So not too worried about it. Gonna buy new clutch cables as well while using my lnf shifter bracket on the lsj trans

 

FYI the elbow is a different part than the distribution block. The block doesn't wear out, but be sure to replace the little nipple seal that comes with the elbow. Most of the leaks that occur after clutch/transmission work are due to forgetting to replace that seal.

 

Thanks exninja for correcting that. You are right. I did buy the clutch elbow & clutch pipe not the distribution block.

 

ahh ok yea..i forgot about the clutch cables.

looks like u got it all under control.

if u are doing it yourself or whoever does it..use a mityvac and a stopper plugged in the master cylinder reservior to bleed the system...wayy easier and works better than the old 2 person pump and hold method

 

Right on Stone. Thanks for the vision. I wish I had the time to learn how to do the trans/ clutch. I have a friend/ mechanic that's I'm gonna follow through the process . I've read a ton about it but haven't physically done it. I'm gonna get to see exactly how it's done. We're gonna do the whole timing as well ( main chain/ balance chain/ guides /sprockets/ upgraded ARP guide bolts/water pump) . I even bought a used timing cover/ oil pump with 2,000 miles on it. Thanks for reminding me about the brake fluid reservoir plug for bleeding the slave! I read that recently on here as well

 

right on👍

 

​​​​​ where did you get your Timken wheel hub bearing assembly from & where was it made. I just bought a set of Timken HA590070 from Rock Auto & they say China on them. Should I be worried or just run em. I know zzp sells these as well but they say south Korea on them. Just trying to find out if anybody has had any problems with the Chinese Timken wheel hub assembly. T.I.A.

 

i believe that is the part number yes...

i didnt look or dont remember if it was china or not, but ive got 5k mi on them and no issues..i dont beat on it though. i wilp check the boxes when i get a chance. i still have them


the old ones were badly corroded, and had to be pressed out with my shop press...

be sure he puts the hub spacers back on. its a thin sheet shaped like a triangle. they are easily damaged if theres a lot of corrosion.

**you cant buy those spacers, so make sure sure sure he doesnt breakem during removal.

 

oh and i got mine from rockauto too

 

QUOT okay then. I'll stick with them & see how they do. I didn't know I had to retrieve a hub spacer off the old assembly. Thanks for the heads up. Shouldn't be corrosion but I'll be careful.

 

Changed mind on hub assembly. Returned the Chinese Timken to Rock Auto & bought gm hubs from That Gm Parts Guy. Part # 15793213 for $ 119 each