Battery keeps dying
Not LED light.....just standard bulb. It will take more milliamps to light that bulb than a vehicle normally draws. You can hook it up and open a door with the test light hooked between the two negatives and it should glow. It is definately not as accurate as a Fluke but if you don't have a DVOM this will get you close.
well I unhooked my radar detector today before coming into work. we shall see if the battery drains when I click the ignition on to accessory and see if the aeroforce interceptor sees a voltage drop
honestly I have no idea. I always thought the car had a short somewhere because I've noticed this power draining thing since I bought the car. My guess is its the security system/ ONstar. The next REAL test will be to not drive the car over the weekend and see what kinda drop I get? If it's improved over the performance of the last battery than its acceptable in my book, lol.
honestly I have no idea. I always thought the car had a short somewhere because I've noticed this power draining thing since I bought the car. My guess is its the security system/ ONstar. The next REAL test will be to not drive the car over the weekend and see what kinda drop I get? If it's improved over the performance of the last battery than its acceptable in my book, lol.
ya if its 11.9 then id be worried. u might get lucky since summer is coming but i garantee that if you dont figure out and fix the problem before next winter it will die on you again. id put money on it
Shorted cells
I had this problem with a battery once where the 'plates' in the battery shorted. Basically the battery itself has an internal drain. Basically your battery's capacity to store energy is diminished. A battery can still show healthy voltage but not enough amps to crank the starter.
Just my experience.....
New battery solved the problem. A 'true' battery test will perform a load test as well..
Just my experience.....
New battery solved the problem. A 'true' battery test will perform a load test as well..
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From: Edmond
No car (especially GM) should have a parasitic draw of over 50mA, much less 100mA. That will draw a battery to nothing in three days. Average parasitic draw is 15-30mA. Let the car sit for about 20 minutes before a parasitic draw test to allow unneccessary modules to power down. If it is higher than 30mA, begin unplugging modules (or accessories) to isolate the source. Hope that helps.
Another test, if you think your battery is dropping too much voltage on startup, try measuring resistance in the positive battery cable.
Another test, if you think your battery is dropping too much voltage on startup, try measuring resistance in the positive battery cable.
Last edited by BlueTurbo; Apr 11, 2011 at 01:01 AM.
i would suggest testing your alternator to see if its bad. get the car started and running. while its running, remove the positive terminal on the battery. it wont shock you, just dont touch the negative terminal at the same time lol. if your car continues running, ur alternator is good and u probably need a new battery. if it dies, that means your alternator is dead and you need a new one.
For the record that's a great way to fry electronics on a car.
Yeah that "test" may work but it also can fry a bunch of stuff.
Example: A voltage regulator that has failed to full charge. Battery is acting as a condenser so to speak. You fire up the car and pull off a cable while it's running. Now instead of everything seeing 15volts *remember it's overcharging* now everything sees 25+
That will quickly and surely fry pretty much any component that has an integrated circuit on it. *just about everything on your car*
Last edited by firehawk618; Nov 19, 2015 at 10:27 PM.
You can also check for parasitic draw via a test light. Discoonect the negative battery cable. Hook the clamp end of the test light to the negative battery terminal and the test lead end to the negative cable (make sure the cable stays disconnected from the battery). If the light glows you have enough amps to drain the battery. You can determine where the draw is via process of elimination. Unplug the detector. You can pull fuses (alternators and starters can be culprits).
I haven't looked to see what the life expectancy of the OEM battery is but usually if you have a five year battery you are on borrowed time after 4.
I haven't looked to see what the life expectancy of the OEM battery is but usually if you have a five year battery you are on borrowed time after 4.
Remember to disconnect your trunk light bulb, all doors closed and key off before you do this.
It's not uncommon to see a quick spike when you first hook the light up but it should quickly go out.
Last edited by firehawk618; Nov 19, 2015 at 10:28 PM.
For the record that's a great way to fry electronics on a car.
Yeah that "test" may work but it also can fry a bunch of stuff.
Example: A voltage regulator that has failed to full charge. Battery is acting as a condenser so to speak. You fire up the car and pull off a cable while it's running. Now instead of everything seeing 15volts *remember it's overcharging* now everything sees 25+
That will quickly and surely fry pretty much any component that has an integrated circuit on it. *just about everything on your car*
Yeah that "test" may work but it also can fry a bunch of stuff.
Example: A voltage regulator that has failed to full charge. Battery is acting as a condenser so to speak. You fire up the car and pull off a cable while it's running. Now instead of everything seeing 15volts *remember it's overcharging* now everything sees 25+
That will quickly and surely fry pretty much any component that has an integrated circuit on it. *just about everything on your car*
pretty sure you quoted the wrong post.... the guy you quoted said you should use a volt meter and that yanking the batter pos was a bad idea
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