The not so Official show off your system Thread
04-17-2013, 12:20 AM
#76
only thing i love more than hp is audio, love where this is going. I have some gear sitting around the garage waiting to go in. Looking for the right subwoofer to handle 800 watts RMS of very clean class GH power. I will post up when I get to installing my gear. Great work everyone.
Oh my word this board is already full of know it alls on the engine build turbo swap side, now you? This board is getting old.
04-21-2013, 12:51 PM
#80
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Oh and you said something about wasting your extreme POWA on the sa-8's dvc's watch and learn:
04-21-2013, 02:25 PM
#81
Look I am not here to start a spitting match, could care less about SPL. You are after something way different than I am when it comes to ICE.
I have had systems with 4 subs to 1 sub. I can tell you that a single sub ported right with 800 watts rms is all I will ever need and for an amp to do it as clean as the clarion.
Class D amps are noisy and even filtered dont have the dynamic output of a well setup power supply in the AB/GH amplifers. That is how this clarion is setup that you mock. Its made by Robert Neff, same guy that makes Arc Audio amps. The brand is irrelivant its whats inside that counts. In fact the guts of this Clarion amp is the same guts as the Arc audio amp of similar power from 2010. Any way I am looking for a the right sub that will go low but still stay linear with 800 watts.
Just because a sub says it will do 800 doesnt mean it will at 20 or 30 hz. Many subs reach xmax at at less than half their power in those lower octaves. That SA8 is cute but wont play the full range in that given power (800 rms). There is more to car audio then choosing a popular brand such as Sundown and reading kiddos comments on car stereo forums.
I am not assuming anything about your background as you shouldn't do the same for mine. I have been installing for 15 years and every need is different based on what a customer wanted. But how can you sit there and makes claims on a SA amp and not even have it in your signature. If its that awesome you sure didnt care to update your signature about it. My little ole Robert Neff clarion is stable at 1 ohm too, but wont make noise when running at that load or the power its rated for.
I have had systems with 4 subs to 1 sub. I can tell you that a single sub ported right with 800 watts rms is all I will ever need and for an amp to do it as clean as the clarion.
Class D amps are noisy and even filtered dont have the dynamic output of a well setup power supply in the AB/GH amplifers. That is how this clarion is setup that you mock. Its made by Robert Neff, same guy that makes Arc Audio amps. The brand is irrelivant its whats inside that counts. In fact the guts of this Clarion amp is the same guts as the Arc audio amp of similar power from 2010. Any way I am looking for a the right sub that will go low but still stay linear with 800 watts.
Just because a sub says it will do 800 doesnt mean it will at 20 or 30 hz. Many subs reach xmax at at less than half their power in those lower octaves. That SA8 is cute but wont play the full range in that given power (800 rms). There is more to car audio then choosing a popular brand such as Sundown and reading kiddos comments on car stereo forums.
I am not assuming anything about your background as you shouldn't do the same for mine. I have been installing for 15 years and every need is different based on what a customer wanted. But how can you sit there and makes claims on a SA amp and not even have it in your signature. If its that awesome you sure didnt care to update your signature about it. My little ole Robert Neff clarion is stable at 1 ohm too, but wont make noise when running at that load or the power its rated for.
04-22-2013, 01:25 AM
#82
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Look I am not here to start a spitting match, could care less about SPL. You are after something way different than I am when it comes to ICE.
I have had systems with 4 subs to 1 sub. I can tell you that a single sub ported right with 800 watts rms is all I will ever need and for an amp to do it as clean as the clarion.
Class D amps are noisy and even filtered dont have the dynamic output of a well setup power supply in the AB/GH amplifers. That is how this clarion is setup that you mock. Its made by Robert Neff, same guy that makes Arc Audio amps. The brand is irrelivant its whats inside that counts. In fact the guts of this Clarion amp is the same guts as the Arc audio amp of similar power from 2010. Any way I am looking for a the right sub that will go low but still stay linear with 800 watts.
Just because a sub says it will do 800 doesnt mean it will at 20 or 30 hz. Many subs reach xmax at at less than half their power in those lower octaves. That SA8 is cute but wont play the full range in that given power (800 rms). There is more to car audio then choosing a popular brand such as Sundown and reading kiddos comments on car stereo forums.
I am not assuming anything about your background as you shouldn't do the same for mine. I have been installing for 15 years and every need is different based on what a customer wanted. But how can you sit there and makes claims on a SA amp and not even have it in your signature. If its that awesome you sure didnt care to update your signature about it. My little ole Robert Neff clarion is stable at 1 ohm too, but wont make noise when running at that load or the power its rated for.
I have had systems with 4 subs to 1 sub. I can tell you that a single sub ported right with 800 watts rms is all I will ever need and for an amp to do it as clean as the clarion.
Class D amps are noisy and even filtered dont have the dynamic output of a well setup power supply in the AB/GH amplifers. That is how this clarion is setup that you mock. Its made by Robert Neff, same guy that makes Arc Audio amps. The brand is irrelivant its whats inside that counts. In fact the guts of this Clarion amp is the same guts as the Arc audio amp of similar power from 2010. Any way I am looking for a the right sub that will go low but still stay linear with 800 watts.
Just because a sub says it will do 800 doesnt mean it will at 20 or 30 hz. Many subs reach xmax at at less than half their power in those lower octaves. That SA8 is cute but wont play the full range in that given power (800 rms). There is more to car audio then choosing a popular brand such as Sundown and reading kiddos comments on car stereo forums.
I am not assuming anything about your background as you shouldn't do the same for mine. I have been installing for 15 years and every need is different based on what a customer wanted. But how can you sit there and makes claims on a SA amp and not even have it in your signature. If its that awesome you sure didnt care to update your signature about it. My little ole Robert Neff clarion is stable at 1 ohm too, but wont make noise when running at that load or the power its rated for.
I would still bet that amp does not do rated cleanly although I do appreciate Ark. Still not a Clarion fan aside from headunits.
Anyways, what size sub were you looking for? I am not much for sq, as you can kind of tell I am into SPL. Have you looked into SSA or AB? They have sq lines that are impressive. What about Funkin Audio? I have their FA SL 15 which is an SQ woofer but I haven't built a box for it yet. Really good build quality for sitting in a shipping container for almost 7 years. What about the enclosure? That matters more than the sub or amp. You could get a 20 dollar boss 10 and rape a fosgate T2 if on the same power strictly with box design.
Edit, for the record, If money is no object I would look into TC sounds. They are sold by parts express.
Last edited by tru2nrtt777; 04-22-2013 at 01:33 AM.
04-22-2013, 01:57 AM
#83
Love PE. Oh man, I have been buying from them for 14 years or so.
TC sounds is definately the way to go. Bit spendy and may be my only hope.
I like the Dayton HO subs, they now have a dual 4 ohm version. That has been the one I keep going back to every time.
Funkin Audio looks like crap from the threads in DIYMA and CAC.
TC sounds is definately the way to go. Bit spendy and may be my only hope.
I like the Dayton HO subs, they now have a dual 4 ohm version. That has been the one I keep going back to every time.
Funkin Audio looks like crap from the threads in DIYMA and CAC.
04-22-2013, 02:30 AM
#84
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Dude, I still haven't done more than a few minutes of free air but I love my FA, I got the lower end model but the spider is stitched to the leads and the coils, it is thickly glued to the basket(atleast 1/4" wide all the way around), the flat "cover all" dust cap is carbon fiber and the surround is glued well. Aside from the cheap chrome stamped basket and rubber magnet surround it seems pretty legit. Key word seems since like I said, I have only free aired it for about 10 minutes on my home theater. I am going to build a quarter wave for it. Oh and although they are more spl oriented, Phantom Soundz is about to release their "Neo 8" which has an RMS conservatively rated at 750 but they have free air videos of it taking a 2500wrms amp at 3/4 tilt.
04-22-2013, 02:52 AM
#85
Dude, I still haven't done more than a few minutes of free air but I love my FA, I got the lower end model but the spider is stitched to the leads and the coils, it is thickly glued to the basket(atleast 1/4" wide all the way around), the flat "cover all" dust cap is carbon fiber and the surround is glued well. Aside from the cheap chrome stamped basket and rubber magnet surround it seems pretty legit. Key word seems since like I said, I have only free aired it for about 10 minutes on my home theater. I am going to build a quarter wave for it. Oh and although they are more spl oriented, Phantom Soundz is about to release their "Neo 8" which has an RMS conservatively rated at 750 but they have free air videos of it taking a 2500wrms amp at 3/4 tilt.
04-22-2013, 02:58 AM
#86
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i would love to pull the trigger on those funkin subs but just too many problems listed in the forums. I am glad it has passed the motor noise test. I keep going back to dayton audio and think either the titanic, the ultimax, or the reference is going to be the best bang for the buck sub. The titanic is musical and plays low with little room and probably will only see 500 rms from my amp at 4 ohms. If I get the HO at 2 ohms or the ultimax at 1 ohm it would see the 800 rms but you are right as you said, gotta get the right box. Really need to make a decision on this.
so that its easier to get it in and out of the trunk then a single box
04-22-2013, 03:29 AM
#87
Love PE. Oh man, I have been buying from them for 14 years or so.
TC sounds is definately the way to go. Bit spendy and may be my only hope.
I like the Dayton HO subs, they now have a dual 4 ohm version. That has been the one I keep going back to every time.
Funkin Audio looks like crap from the threads in DIYMA and CAC.
TC sounds is definately the way to go. Bit spendy and may be my only hope.
I like the Dayton HO subs, they now have a dual 4 ohm version. That has been the one I keep going back to every time.
Funkin Audio looks like crap from the threads in DIYMA and CAC.
04-22-2013, 11:20 AM
#88
no I havent had an opportunity to check it out but the reference series subs have incredible ratings on the PE site. Another sub that was impressive in just a cubic ft sealed was the Dayton Titanic, Lots of xmax and played extremely low. I would just run my clarion at 4 ohms for 500 watts and get the titanic. I really think it would be all i need and I could snug a custom enclosure in the corner of the trunk.
04-22-2013, 11:51 AM
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NVX NSW102 - Sub
Pioneer AVH-P8400BH- Radio
Polk Audio DXi650s 6.5"- Rear Speakers
Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675-S 6.75" Component Speakers - Front Speakers
Alpine MRV-F450 - 5 channel powering everything
This is my new setup. I wanted to improve on stock, didn't want to break the bank, and I'm not a huge Bass thumper so nothing massive was needed. I will find out how it sounds soon.
Pioneer AVH-P8400BH- Radio
Polk Audio DXi650s 6.5"- Rear Speakers
Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675-S 6.75" Component Speakers - Front Speakers
Alpine MRV-F450 - 5 channel powering everything
This is my new setup. I wanted to improve on stock, didn't want to break the bank, and I'm not a huge Bass thumper so nothing massive was needed. I will find out how it sounds soon.
04-22-2013, 12:09 PM
#91
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I never heard of them, It was 60$ and fit within the "specs" I needed. Until I installed it, then I had to start hacking away at the stock box. Got it to fit and it looks good. Hopefully I'll have my car back tomorrow. It's at my buddies house right now, I work tonight he worked today. So he's going to finish it off when I go in for work.
04-22-2013, 10:09 PM
#92
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i would love to pull the trigger on those funkin subs but just too many problems listed in the forums. I am glad it has passed the motor noise test. I keep going back to dayton audio and think either the titanic, the ultimax, or the reference is going to be the best bang for the buck sub. The titanic is musical and plays low with little room and probably will only see 500 rms from my amp at 4 ohms. If I get the HO at 2 ohms or the ultimax at 1 ohm it would see the 800 rms but you are right as you said, gotta get the right box. Really need to make a decision on this.
just build the right box its what im doing right now im about to go get my mdf and start building 2 of these boxes RE AUDIO - Box Calculator
so that its easier to get it in and out of the trunk then a single box
so that its easier to get it in and out of the trunk then a single box
05-04-2013, 07:59 PM
#93
I have 2 of the Dayton Titanic 12"s sitting in my garage, played them a little and they sound pretty good. Was thinking about doing a nice home theater with them, then thought about using them in my Cobalt but wanted to try out the new Skar VVX's so got those and now i'm not sure what i'm going to do with the Daytons lol.
06-09-2013, 04:18 PM
#96
Senior Member
I swear I found a thread before for what I was looking for but can't seem to find it again, so here it goes.
I want to add the stereo I had in my truck to the Balt, while leaving the stock subwoofer as well. How would I go about doing this? Something makes me think when I found the thread there was like an RCA splitter to tap into the stock. Everything else would be relatively easy with the battery already in the trunk. Just the remote wire that would have to go to the deck, or is there a tapable one?
I want to add the stereo I had in my truck to the Balt, while leaving the stock subwoofer as well. How would I go about doing this? Something makes me think when I found the thread there was like an RCA splitter to tap into the stock. Everything else would be relatively easy with the battery already in the trunk. Just the remote wire that would have to go to the deck, or is there a tapable one?
