Okay. This is weird.
Okay. This is weird.
Ok. 07 LS 4 door. Completely factory stereo. About a year to a year and a half ago the drivers side door speaker stopped working and at the same time the clicker that sounds when I turn a turn signal on stopped also...Now when the speaker works (on occasion) the turn signal sound works and when the speaker isn't working the turn signal sound doesn't work. So I have no idea. Let me know what you think.
Thanks!
Thanks!
lol
ok for reals though.....your turn signal clicker sound actually does go through your drivers side door speaker. so of course when the speaker doesn't work, the clicker doesn't work.
take yur door panel off. check the connection to the speaker. if it looks fine, try hooking a different source to the speaker to see if it's the speaker itself having blown a voice coil. if the speaker works, hook the speaker back up to it's door connections. see if the speaker works just for ***** and giggles(if it does then it was connection). if not, go to the back of the deck and check the connections. make sure connectors are in snug. once again turn stereo on and see what happens. if no sound still present, splice another speaker into the wires for the door speaker at the very back of the deck. if the test speaker works consistent, then you know it's your wiring between that position and the connection to the door speaker. if the test speaker doesn't, then you know it's either the connector to the deck itself or that channel is dieing on the deck itself.
with that process, you'll def diagnose your issues. some would say do the process in reverse starting with the deck, but seeing as your cars stock i'd assume it's probably just the speaker connectors at the speaker itself.
ok for reals though.....your turn signal clicker sound actually does go through your drivers side door speaker. so of course when the speaker doesn't work, the clicker doesn't work.
take yur door panel off. check the connection to the speaker. if it looks fine, try hooking a different source to the speaker to see if it's the speaker itself having blown a voice coil. if the speaker works, hook the speaker back up to it's door connections. see if the speaker works just for ***** and giggles(if it does then it was connection). if not, go to the back of the deck and check the connections. make sure connectors are in snug. once again turn stereo on and see what happens. if no sound still present, splice another speaker into the wires for the door speaker at the very back of the deck. if the test speaker works consistent, then you know it's your wiring between that position and the connection to the door speaker. if the test speaker doesn't, then you know it's either the connector to the deck itself or that channel is dieing on the deck itself.
with that process, you'll def diagnose your issues. some would say do the process in reverse starting with the deck, but seeing as your cars stock i'd assume it's probably just the speaker connectors at the speaker itself.
Huh?!?
Thanks, I'll rip it apart tomorrow and let you know what I find.
lol
ok for reals though.....your turn signal clicker sound actually does go through your drivers side door speaker. so of course when the speaker doesn't work, the clicker doesn't work.
take yur door panel off. check the connection to the speaker. if it looks fine, try hooking a different source to the speaker to see if it's the speaker itself having blown a voice coil. if the speaker works, hook the speaker back up to it's door connections. see if the speaker works just for ***** and giggles(if it does then it was connection). if not, go to the back of the deck and check the connections. make sure connectors are in snug. once again turn stereo on and see what happens. if no sound still present, splice another speaker into the wires for the door speaker at the very back of the deck. if the test speaker works consistent, then you know it's your wiring between that position and the connection to the door speaker. if the test speaker doesn't, then you know it's either the connector to the deck itself or that channel is dieing on the deck itself.
with that process, you'll def diagnose your issues. some would say do the process in reverse starting with the deck, but seeing as your cars stock i'd assume it's probably just the speaker connectors at the speaker itself.
ok for reals though.....your turn signal clicker sound actually does go through your drivers side door speaker. so of course when the speaker doesn't work, the clicker doesn't work.
take yur door panel off. check the connection to the speaker. if it looks fine, try hooking a different source to the speaker to see if it's the speaker itself having blown a voice coil. if the speaker works, hook the speaker back up to it's door connections. see if the speaker works just for ***** and giggles(if it does then it was connection). if not, go to the back of the deck and check the connections. make sure connectors are in snug. once again turn stereo on and see what happens. if no sound still present, splice another speaker into the wires for the door speaker at the very back of the deck. if the test speaker works consistent, then you know it's your wiring between that position and the connection to the door speaker. if the test speaker doesn't, then you know it's either the connector to the deck itself or that channel is dieing on the deck itself.
with that process, you'll def diagnose your issues. some would say do the process in reverse starting with the deck, but seeing as your cars stock i'd assume it's probably just the speaker connectors at the speaker itself.
2 screws (behind the leaver and in bottom of the part you pull it closed with, handle cup whatever you want to call it)
Pry the bottom out a bit (do not use a screwdriver something flat and wide, paint scraper will do) only enough to get your hands under it.
Pull the panel off slowly from bottom to top, careful not to break the clips.
Okay. Its the speaker. I took it out and hooked it up to my house stereo and nothing. I pushed on the speaker and when it was about half way down I felt it vibrate a tiny bit and then it stopped.
Now I got a good excuse to tell my wife that I need to get new speakers.
Does the speaker come out of that bracket or is the speaker and the bracket one piece. I had a neon that they came apart and I was able to rtv the speaker in to it. And if its one piece what do I need to do to get the speaker in there without it rattling.
Thanks!
Oh and whats the max mounting depth?
Last edited by aguitarmn; Aug 1, 2010 at 04:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
+1 score for me.
lol
glad you were able to figure it out quickly.
now for the kinda pain in the ass.
if your a ls, chances are you'll have to do what i had to.....which is destroy the stock speaker in order to use its bracket to mount your aftermarket speaker through.
look around at what folks got here on the forum. There are many choices, from budget to baller.
lol
glad you were able to figure it out quickly.

now for the kinda pain in the ass.
if your a ls, chances are you'll have to do what i had to.....which is destroy the stock speaker in order to use its bracket to mount your aftermarket speaker through.
look around at what folks got here on the forum. There are many choices, from budget to baller.
i agree to some extent but remember this. if a speaker is truly blown its 100% user error. there is no such thing as a manufacture defect with the speaker itself that causes a speaker to blow. When you say you could push it in so far then it felt funny that sounds alot to me like a blown coil... so yes you realized that 5 cent built in mexico speakers are truly worth their value BUT the fact that you blew them leads me to believe the actual thing that sucks is not gm nor their cheap speakers
i agree to some extent but remember this. if a speaker is truly blown its 100% user error. there is no such thing as a manufacture defect with the speaker itself that causes a speaker to blow. When you say you could push it in so far then it felt funny that sounds alot to me like a blown coil... so yes you realized that 5 cent built in mexico speakers are truly worth their value BUT the fact that you blew them leads me to believe the actual thing that sucks is not gm nor their cheap speakers
I really doubt that the it has a blown voice coil, there could be a short...maybe in the wires between the VC and the connectors...maybe God himself just decided that he didn't want all these speakers in various cars to work and to not work. And all 3 out of 4 speakers are doing the same exact thing and other ppl have said the same thing happened to them...
And probably 100% of base model stock stereo's do suck.
did you not read my post or did you just not comprehend it? i agreed with you that the stock speakers suck and since gm pays like 5cents for them its not really hard to understand why. and yes if u sent me the speakers i could tell you exactly what happened on them. if you can blow one speaker what makes you think you cant blow more then that? i'm not sure what your expecting out of a base model, economy car, without the quote un quote "premium" audio system. cheap speakers are just that and when you crank the **** out of the radio **** blows up
But I don't want to get banned since I am newer to the board and do not want the reputation
of a trouble maker. So I am going to let it go.
he couldve meant that it sucks that you turned it up too loud -- but it wasnt the stereo's fault. Text is vague... and often misinterpreted. Either way this is a wonderful excuse to get loud-ass speakers
aguita, yur description of being able to push in on the cone and hear like a weird sound is a prime indication of a blown voice coil.
blown voice coils are usually in relation to heat. heat is induced the louder the stereo goes. bass in particular.
blown voice coils are usually in relation to heat. heat is induced the louder the stereo goes. bass in particular.
I just got this problem fixed on my car, since both front speakers stopped working. The dealership replaced both front speakers and said that the coils were badly corroded! I asked to see them, and they had a lot of surface rust. Total price for the problem $249.00 ($89 for the speakers, the rest was labour and taxes).
On a side note, it makes we wonder why there is so much humidity inside the door??? I wonder if it will cause the doors to rust faster??
On a side note, it makes we wonder why there is so much humidity inside the door??? I wonder if it will cause the doors to rust faster??
You don't need to buy mounting plates or cut the factory ones.
I just use 1/4 inch ply wood and cut it to size and then mount the speaker in it.
Also what i did was put plastic over the top half of the opening to delfect the water coming down when it rains.
Before i had the plastic on water ran through my speakers and on the floor.
The stock bracket is designed so water don't get in.
Here is a pic of the wood mount i used on my old Mazda.
I don't know if I have any of the Cobalt.
I just use 1/4 inch ply wood and cut it to size and then mount the speaker in it.
Also what i did was put plastic over the top half of the opening to delfect the water coming down when it rains.
Before i had the plastic on water ran through my speakers and on the floor.
The stock bracket is designed so water don't get in.
Here is a pic of the wood mount i used on my old Mazda.
I don't know if I have any of the Cobalt.
I just got this problem fixed on my car, since both front speakers stopped working. The dealership replaced both front speakers and said that the coils were badly corroded! I asked to see them, and they had a lot of surface rust. Total price for the problem $249.00 ($89 for the speakers, the rest was labour and taxes).
On a side note, it makes we wonder why there is so much humidity inside the door??? I wonder if it will cause the doors to rust faster??
On a side note, it makes we wonder why there is so much humidity inside the door??? I wonder if it will cause the doors to rust faster??
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