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Where did you buy the loom material? I need to re-do the loom on the Z24. It is all crumbling from age.
Most autopart stores sale it. I always got it from Pep boys as they had a bigger selection of amount sizes. Im sure Autozone, Napa, Oriley, and Advanced Auto Parts has them too.
While the laws of entropy are constant, the paint job has held up well. With paint technology these days, I'm sure if you redo it with the high heat clear, it should last longer and stay looking "fresh".
Still, looks like you were able to get a good portion of dirt off in a short amount of time. Nicely done!
Most autopart stores sale it. I always got it from Pep boys as they had a bigger selection of amount sizes. Im sure Autozone, Napa, Oriley, and Advanced Auto Parts has them too.
I never seen it, but then I guess I really haven't looked or asked
While the laws of entropy are constant, the paint job has held up well. With paint technology these days, I'm sure if you redo it with the high heat clear, it should last longer and stay looking "fresh".
Still, looks like you were able to get a good portion of dirt off in a short amount of time. Nicely done!
Yeah I used a high heat primer and paint, and buddy talked me out of high heat clear. But not bad for $25 and about 4 to 5 hours. I painted my fuse box cover and k&n intake shield that day too. I should have bought a powder coated one from modern performance a few years ago when they had them for $100. Oh well here are pics from 2016 when I painted it.
Where did you buy the loom material? I need to re-do the loom on the Z24. It is all crumbling from age.
I got it from AutoZone I think. It was in garage. It's really cheap, just make sure to get good harness tape. The cloth tape holds up much longer. Then electrical tape that people have used.
Rear window spoiler came in today looks pretty decent I think it will look good once it's installed. Gotta peel up a few decals clean up the window and stick on. Here is a sneak peek.
Put in the upper trans mount. Looks good and feels great on my short test drive. Definitely need to do some tuning for the ZZP Intake. AFR is all over the place.
I did the plugs today. I only took one picture to compare the ACDelco/NGK OEM plugs to the NGK Plugs. The gap on all of them checked good. Which is good since they say they cannot be regapped.
Only things left to install are the axles, swaybar end links, tie rod ends, and sway bar bushings. I also remembered I broke a lug stud back on the front driver side hub in December before deployment that need to replace the stud now as well. Hopefully I can get everything done between tomorrow and Thursday.
side noteInote/rant. I need to pick up a low profile jack. I'm tired of using the scissor jack to get enough clearance for my jack. I had a board that I had cut down to act as a ramp, but when my wife and father in law took out fence down they scrapped my ramp board....
Put in the upper trans mount. Looks good and feels great on my short test drive. Definitely need to do some tuning for the ZZP Intake. AFR is all over the place.
Good to know that the engine mount and tranny mount work good for you bro. My g5 is an auto so my only option is turbotech racing which I heard is pretty good as well and the vibes are not that bad. Hopefully get those sometime next month after I get the other suspension parts installed.
Got the axles, tie rod ends, sway bar end links, and control arms in today.
I was going to press in the new bushings but the press kit at the shop was trashed. Also their hydraulic press the bushing press kit and the hydraulic press were trashed. So I put the new control arms in without them.
Aside from that everything went smoothly. Too smoothly. I forgot to get under the car yesterday and spray the bolts and nuts with penetrating oil so I thought all the bolt were going to be a PITA but surprisingly just spraying them 30 seconds before hitting them with a impact got them all loose.
With the car on a lift, and everything apart easily. The vertical control arm bolts that everyone has issues with came right out. The axles came out easily with slight push on a pry bar. They went back easy everything looked seated. The driver side was seated for sure. The passenger side went in but I didn't feel the same click as the driver side, but it looks all the way in and did not pull back out easily. Everything went back together smooth.
I'll have to take the control arms back off maybe this weekend to get the bushings in, but should be easy as everything was just out today.
While driving home the car definitely need an alignment. Hopefully that fixes the pulling that started now, and there is a decent vibration under load that I can feel in the steering. Again hopefully an alignment will sort that all out.
The worker at the shop an ASE Certified Tech told me that I cannot press the new bushings into an aluminum control arm, and if I do they will not stay? Anyone ever heard of that? I'm doing it anyway, but that's what he said.
I didn't take any pictures during install as there was really anything worth taking pictures of. We all know what axles, endlinks, and tie rod ends look like. I'll get pictures this weekend though with the bushings in.
I've personally never heard of the bushings popping out after being pressed. The mechanics required to get them into place is why you need a hydrolic press, and they won't go in unless they're perfectly straight. I think that guy was just an idiot.
That ASE cert means jack and ****, other than he can study for a test. I've put over 60k on bushing pushed into aluminum arms and they're still there. Want me to take pictures for the tech?
That ASE cert means jack and ****, other than he can study for a test. I've put over 60k on bushing pushed into aluminum arms and they're still there. Want me to take pictures for the tech?
Agreed my neighbor was a mechanic from home for 30 years. Never had any certification, but if he couldn't fix it, it wasn't fixable. He knew how to make anything work, and worked on our other neighbors Land Cruisers, and Range Rovers. The electrical on them is a nightmare.
I've personally never heard of the bushings popping out after being pressed. The mechanics required to get them into place is why you need a hydrolic press, and they won't go in unless they're perfectly straight. I think that guy was just an idiot.
I told him basically the same thing and that there are tons of people using them on this platform with no issues. He kept saying if you do it they won't stay. I won't allow it here... Blah blah blah, and he wouldn't quit. He was probably 60, he's retired Navy and a retired mechanic, but he was acting like a 5 year old. After he told me he wouldn't allow me to, I was going to anyway, but the hyd press was screwed up, so I just installed my parts and rolled out.
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