Once I get them pressed in I'll make sure I get pictures and leave a Google review with pictures of it.

 

If this was a known issue, then GM wouldn't sell replacement bushings for the a-arms. Not to mention VW/Audi, Honda, and various other brands that have been using aluminum control arms almost exclusively for the last decade or more.

Pressing new bushings into aluminum only becomes an issue if you do it like an idiot - it's definitely less forgiving to error than pressing into steel. Give the hole a little lube, make sure you're going in straight, etc. A little common sense.

 

Been slow on the car. I still have not got the bushings in. I'm going get a bushing press maybe this week and practice by putting a new bushing in my old control arms. BTW I never posted a pictures of the old bushings, so I'll add that here.

Pretty hard to see in that picture. I'll try and get a better one tomorrow.

I had an SRS light, I don't remember when it came on, but it was well over a year ago and kept me from getting my car inspected and being 100% legal. I solved that issue. I don't how it happened but the SDM fuse was gone. It could have been one of the other Cobalt local guys I hang with, and he forgot about it. He likes to mess with little things, like pull your oil cap or pop off the battery post cover or washer fluid lid. IDK, but I replaced the fuse and my light went away. Time for alignment and then inspection. Also my plates finally came in. I stick with basically the same thing I had previously. It said 4DR SS now it says 4DR -SS. Pictures below
Old


New

 

Looks good man! I want a personalized plate but its on the expensive side to what I would want to spend. Its like 100 for the plate then its another 100 for registration so that would make it 200 a year not bad but nah

 

Its much cheaper here. Registration is about 35 yearly. The custom plate fee is 10 per year. Basically 45 a year and I can get new custom plates every year. Virginia has one of the highest custom plates percentage.

 

I don't remember, did you also do new ball joints on the OEM control arms?

 

Yeah I bought brand new control arms just to safe. I didn't want to take the chance that my ball joints were shot. In case you missed it, I went to a DIY shop with a lift, they basically just let us do what we want. I got everything done expect putting the OTTP Bushings in the new control arm, because the tech overseeing what's being done said he will not allow me to press the OTTP bushing into an aluminum control arm. So I just installed them without. I'll get them in over one of next few days. I'm going to pick up bushing press kit and practice putting new bushings into the old control arm. After pulling them off the ball joint still feels solid, but the rear bushing was completely shot. I'll probably sell off the old control arms with new bushings pretty cheap to try and recoup a little $$$.

 

I remember the tech BS but don't remember reading about the ball joints. I was wondering if you still needed to press out the rivets or it came with the bolts for the ball joint.

 

Thats actually not bad of a price I would had done it in a heart beat it that was the case here

 

As far as getting bushings pressed in. I couldn't find anybody to do it.
Most shops said no while some shops said they would when I called but once they saw it they declined.
I ended up just buying the control arms with bushing from tom.
When I told tom I couldn't find a place to press in bushing he said he's not sure how they would with out the gm dealer tool.
I didn't even realize there was a gm dealer tool intill that moment.

 

I forget which steel pipe coupler or cap I used but it fit the bushing almost perfect and then I pressed it out with a 6k press. Then did the same to press in, did that with my Powell bushings and my buddies stock bushings both into aluminum arms so it takes a little care but can be done.

 

I pressed in my rotated mount replacement bushings, and it's looks to be same bushing that gets in control arms.
I'll get them in before I go to TOTD. I have watched a few videos of people swapping bushing in cobalt control arms.

 

I really hope I'm not going to run into this same problem . I bought Powell CABS a few months back to go along with my new FE3 control arms I bought.

 

I haven't checked to see if any shop around here would do it or not. From the other post above it definitely seems like it's a DIY and shops don't want to chance it.

 

The spherical bearings have a big outer race that you can push on. Just be sure to push the outer race and not the inner sleeve. The tricky part is keeping the arm level because there isn't a good flat surface to bear against.

 

Yeah vaguely remember my buddy Connor doing his and having a hard time with a big shop press. I'll be using a smaller bushing press kit. I think with the right cup sizes it shouldn't be a problem.

 

I had an easier time on the big press. The smaller one tended to shift around on me a lot more. I think the key is to use a flat surface to cover the hole completely to start it, then when the inner sleeve hits that switch to a sleeve. That works for the solid rubber bushings but not for the spherical because you can't get two sleeves and the control arm to fit in the clamp.

 

I figured it was going to be a pita and just bought the arms with the powell bushings installed from Tom. I have to install the arms, new struts/ mounts, links, and sway bar bushings. I bought everything and then never got around to installing it with the whole COVID mess.

 

Just find a machine shop to press them in. Or buy a press from Harbor Freight, lol.

6-ton table top press for $68

20-ton shop press for $150

I bought the 20-ton earlier this year. Simple to use, and will pay itself off after a handful of uses.

 

So a few days ago I sent my gauge cluster to a friend to get color changing blue tooth LEDs put in. I should have the back in a few days. I also have blue LEDs in my HVAC, but I think that is going in and my boost gauge to get the same bluetooth LED treatment. Also my AEM Wideband is on the way.... Thanks Sean!!

 

I always did this with my mustangs as the lights were green. Super easy to do and they look good.

 

Been wanting to do that mod to my car for some time now. Maybe I will and get me the blackcatcustoms insert as well

 

Wideband came in today. I started my swap back to my catless DP in the drive way. Got the up on stands and high flow DP out. Got the catless bolted back up and it started raining. Thought I would be quick enough to get it done between rain showers, but looks like I'll have to get out again and get the o2 sensors back in and basically the rest is done just run power and ground to gauge.

 

Are you going to be able to drive your car before you get shipped out again?

 

I've been driving it everyday.
Update it's back on the ground. Sensors are in gauge is in place, and wires are ran, just gotta wire for power, tomorrow morning.