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Next update finally got my OTTP bushings into a set of LNF control arms. With what seems to be a huge shortage of LNF control arms I managed to grab another set. I sent in my bushings to Tom at Crate Engine Depot, and got me straightened out!
Next update finally got my OTTP bushings into a set of LNF control arms. With what seems to be a huge shortage of LNF control arms I managed to grab another set. I sent in my bushings to Tom at Crate Engine Depot, and got me straightened out!
Next update finally got my OTTP bushings into a set of LNF control arms. With what seems to be a huge shortage of LNF control arms I managed to grab another set. I sent in my bushings to Tom at Crate Engine Depot, and got me straightened out!
You're lucky, for sure. I'm constantly seeing people trying to get their hands on LNF control arms / ball joints. The ball joint is the real issue, being 1 mm larger than on the LSJ. The arm is otherwise identical, iirc.
You're lucky, for sure. I'm constantly seeing people trying to get their hands on LNF control arms / ball joints. The ball joint is the real issue, being 1 mm larger than on the LSJ. The arm is otherwise identical, iirc.
So what is the difference/advantage to the lnf control arms vs the lsj/fe3 control arms? When I redid my suspension last year I couldn't find the lnf control arms either so I went with new lsj/fe3 controls arms instead then upgraded them with Powell lcabs. I didn't do the leading bushings because I heard it would make the front suspension a little too stiff for regular street use. I might upgrade to those in the future though.
The advantage is the ability to use the LNF knuckle, which has slightly different steering geometry (quicker steering and higher roll center, iirc). No advantage otherwise. AND... for 95+% of drivers... no advantage to using the LNF knuckle, either.
You can't really do that though. The conversion is a royal PITA... even for an LSJ car. Have to use the LNF wheel bearing and axles... which don't work with the OE ABS system. OR, modified wheel bearings from a Grand Am and a lot of machining work.
The advantage is the ability to use the LNF knuckle, which has slightly different steering geometry (quicker steering and higher roll center, iirc). No advantage otherwise. AND... for 95+% of drivers... no advantage to using the LNF knuckle, either.
You can't really do that though. The conversion is a royal PITA... even for an LSJ car. Have to use the LNF wheel bearing and axles... which don't work with the OE ABS system. OR, modified wheel bearings from a Grand Am and a lot of machining work.
Yeah makes sense how you explained it. I have a G5 so the lsj/fe3 controls is what I had on my car stock anyway so I was fine just getting a new set of control arms and doing the Powell lcabs. I got a zzp strut bar over Christmas so i'm going to install that shortly so hopefully that helps a bit. Obviousyly its nothing compared to changing steering knuckles but I'm fine with that.
I got a zzp strut bar over Christmas so i'm going to install that shortly so hopefully that helps a bit.
Strut bar or sway bar? Strut bars don't actually do much of anything on our cars - outside of their aesthetic value, as the strut towers are already tied in with the firewall.
Strut bar or sway bar? Strut bars don't actually do much of anything on our cars - outside of their aesthetic value, as the strut towers are already tied in with the firewall.
Yes I know the strut bar doesn't really do too much but if it gives a bit more stiffness and chassis rigidity I'll be happy with that. I also have the Powell rear sway bar and I upgraded to a larger front sway bar from the cobalt ss/sc. It definitely made a difference.
Control arms with OTTP bushings are in, got the car realigned and feels great. I definitely think I need new coils the old BCs I have that have been rebuilt once have probably lived longer than they should have. I discovered I need s couple exhaust hangers, and a have clunk in the rear end could be the exhaust hitting on something. If not that than it’s the suspension or the rear beam bushings…
New retro headlights have been built by Snyper Automotive Lighting. Got them installed this past weekend and I cannot believe I didn’t go this route years ago!
Control arms with OTTP bushings are in, got the car realigned and feels great. I definitely think I need new coils the old BCs I have that have been rebuilt once have probably lived longer than they should have. I discovered I need s couple exhaust hangers, and a have clunk in the rear end could be the exhaust hitting on something. If not that than it’s the suspension or the rear beam bushings…
New retro headlights have been built by Snyper Automotive Lighting. Got them installed this past weekend and I cannot believe I didn’t go this route years ago!
More to come soon.
Headlights look sick brotha. And that rear clunk since I just went through a complete suspension rebuild of my car I can tell you its more than likely the rear axle bushings. I had to replace all of that stuff and the clunk went away after those new axle bushings were installed.
Headlights look sick brotha. And that rear clunk since I just went through a complete suspension rebuild of my car I can tell you its more than likely the rear axle bushings. I had to replace all of that stuff and the clunk went away after those new axle bushings were installed.
The headlights have 3” bi-led projectors, the light output is amazing. I have some minor adjustments to make to get them lined up perfectly but even just slightly off they are so much better than the trash I have used the past few years.
How hard are those rear bushings to change out I have seen them listed pretty cheap on rock auto, and I think OTTP was working on something as well. I probably should have changed them in 2020 when got back from deployment.
The headlights have 3” bi-led projectors, the light output is amazing. I have some minor adjustments to make to get them lined up perfectly but even just slightly off they are so much better than the trash I have used the past few years.
How hard are those rear bushings to change out I have seen them listed pretty cheap on rock auto, and I think OTTP was working on something as well. I probably should have changed them in 2020 when got back from deployment.
With the kent moore tool it took me about 3 hours. I think a shop probably about two hours just because they got a lift and other useful tools I don't have in my garage lol. Once they were out the rest was simple and easy putting the new bushings back in. Yeah I went on their website I see they are based out in Canada so i'm defintely going to hit them up soon. I love to get some custom headlights. How much did they cost you?
Another update. New brakes and rotors all the way around and replaced all the exhaust hangers again. Freshly retinted and finally a new head unit.
The stock head unit served well for the last 13/14 years. The new Pioneer looks nice and fits very well. Steering wheel controls work. I’m starting to live this car again.
Changing the exhaust hangers eliminated the clunking for a while but now has return again. I think I’m going to change the rear beam bushings when I do coilovers. I might also heat wrap the section of exhaust that gets close to the heat shield for the evap canister on the rear beam, because I think that hits and makes the noise worse.
I know this is useless without pictures I’ll get some soon and and some pictures with the new headlights installed.
Another update. New brakes and rotors all the way around and replaced all the exhaust hangers again. Freshly retinted and finally a new head unit.
The stock head unit served well for the last 13/14 years. The new Pioneer looks nice and fits very well. Steering wheel controls work. I’m starting to live this car again.
Changing the exhaust hangers eliminated the clunking for a while but now has return again. I think I’m going to change the rear beam bushings when I do coilovers. I might also heat wrap the section of exhaust that gets close to the heat shield for the evap canister on the rear beam, because I think that hits and makes the noise worse.
I know this is useless without pictures I’ll get some soon and and some pictures with the new headlights installed.
i'll be tackling my brakes including new pads, rotors, and stainless brake lines next week brotha. Yeah post some pics up when you can. Also if you don't mind me asking what brand are your rims? They look sick in the white color. Are they light weight?
i'll be tackling my brakes including new pads, rotors, and stainless brake lines next week brotha. Yeah post some pics up when you can. Also if you don't mind me asking what brand are your rims? They look sick in the white color. Are they light weight?
They are cheap knock offs. Vors. I wanted TE37s but There is no way I will allow myself to spend that kind of money on wheels.
No good videos of l headlights on the car yet. Still waiting unveil it at the EcotecFest meet this weekend. Still no new interior pics for the new radio install.
I did get my rear bumper with the rear lip on it installed on the car after a few years of slacking off. unfortunately I wasn’t able to get my RK Sport hood prepped and ready before I had to drop it off at my buddy’s shop. It will be all one color by the end of the week. (Pictures below… and bonus picture of the hood in progress)
I’m not sure if I’m putting the white grill back in. I have brand new LNF upper grill If I do I suppose I have to paint the new lower grill and the new rear ones to match 🫤
So unfortunately I wasn’t able to get the rear bumper and lip done for the EcotecFest meet this past weekend, because of the crappy primer I used, so I put the original bumper back on. The primer didn’t allow the the vinyl wrap to to stick to it. I grabbed a few pictures of the car and head lights, and a half ass shot of the radio and dash view.
This is very similar to Nardo Grey. I was going to nardo grey, but Avery doesn’t have it. The vinyl we used was Avery Gloss Rock Grey. It’s a 7 year vinyl. The only company that he could get nardo grey from was TekWrap and it was only a 3 year vinyl. I don’t plan on having wrapped for 7 years l, but he said the vinyl will hold up better than the 3 year vinyl. We also cream coated it for a little extra protection
This is very similar to Nardo Grey. I was going to nardo grey, but Avery doesn’t have it. The vinyl we used was Avery Gloss Rock Grey. It’s a 7 year vinyl. The only company that he could get nardo grey from was TekWrap and it was only a 3 year vinyl. I don’t plan on having wrapped for 7 years l, but he said the vinyl will hold up better than the 3 year vinyl. We also cream coated it for a little extra protection
