At the dealer...
At the dealer...
Yeah, as the title states i'm at the dealer right now.
in lieu of gmac's 0% financing program i decided to give it a shot.
any suggestions/tips? i filed out my trade/credit information, already went on a test drive and stuff...
in lieu of gmac's 0% financing program i decided to give it a shot.
any suggestions/tips? i filed out my trade/credit information, already went on a test drive and stuff...
Ah forget it, I was trying to trade in the fgt-LT... but I owe like $19k.. It's only worth (max) like 11k trade in.
I would've been financing nearly 30k.
My original dealer raped me upon purchase.
I would've been financing nearly 30k.
My original dealer raped me upon purchase.
in lieu of? That means instead of.....not because of. I was confused for a sec....
Hang onto your car and try to pay it down faster. I traded in my lease 1.5 yrs in---took a hit but no where near what you were looking at.
holy **** 19k for an lt.....omg i got mine fully loaded...est. price of 24k....for 18k.....man i hate to say but u sure as hell did get raped
You probably had a nasty interest rate. Double up on your payments if you can - pay off the principle. If your interest rate is above 10% and you're just making standard payments it'll take you forever to get out of Neg Equity, like 80% of the term of your loan.
If you have a high interest rate - pay as much as you can EVERY month. If you've got an extra $500 laying around, put it on your principle. 10+% paid off over 2 years isn't that bad, but if you wait the whole 4 or 5 out you'll be paying an extra $10,000 or more on the car just in interest.
And do not roll that much negative equity into your loan. If you got in a wreck and totaled your car you would be totally fucked.
Another tip - if you're dead set on a car and your credit rating is above 620ish, see if a bank (capital one..) will finance you outright on a new car - don't even bring your old car into the picture.
That way you aren't dealing with the stealership's finance department - you can walk in like a cash buyer.
Then you can sell your 3LT and pay off as much of that loan as possible (probably get at least $14k on the private market if you're low mileage) and roll the remainder of your your payment into a long term personal loan.
If you have really, really shitty credit you could just finance a new car and let your old one be repossesed, your score will be fucked for 7 years - but it probably will be anyhow because of whatever is on your current score. I do not advise this, but it can work.
Best advise - keep your car and fall back in love with it. Do some bolt on mods, buy a turbocharger, whatever.
If you have a high interest rate - pay as much as you can EVERY month. If you've got an extra $500 laying around, put it on your principle. 10+% paid off over 2 years isn't that bad, but if you wait the whole 4 or 5 out you'll be paying an extra $10,000 or more on the car just in interest.
And do not roll that much negative equity into your loan. If you got in a wreck and totaled your car you would be totally fucked.
Another tip - if you're dead set on a car and your credit rating is above 620ish, see if a bank (capital one..) will finance you outright on a new car - don't even bring your old car into the picture.
That way you aren't dealing with the stealership's finance department - you can walk in like a cash buyer.
Then you can sell your 3LT and pay off as much of that loan as possible (probably get at least $14k on the private market if you're low mileage) and roll the remainder of your your payment into a long term personal loan.
If you have really, really shitty credit you could just finance a new car and let your old one be repossesed, your score will be fucked for 7 years - but it probably will be anyhow because of whatever is on your current score. I do not advise this, but it can work.
Best advise - keep your car and fall back in love with it. Do some bolt on mods, buy a turbocharger, whatever.
You know, if you're interest rate on your 3LT is really high, like above 15% and you DO qualify for the 0.0% now, you could in reality be paying the same amount either way.
What I mean is that with you may have as much tied up in interest on your current car as you are upside down on it... i.e, if you're paying $8,000 in interst on a $20,000 car, you're
paying $28,000 for that car. On the other hand, if you're putting a $8,000 in negative equity (3LT) on top of a $21,000 car (SS/SC) at 0.0% interest, you're still paying $28,000 for a $20,000 car.
I still think you MIGHT be screwed if you were to get in a wreck since the insurance company would only give you the list value of the car at best, but I'm not sure. Obviously this doesn't tie into JUST having a high interest rate (your current situation) as your payoff on your car is much less than the total amount you owe if you have anything above 0.0% financing.
What rate did you get if you don't mind my asking and how long is your original loan term? On a second thinking, it could be a good way to get yourself out of a bad situation since the ss/sc will likely hold it's resale value better..
What I mean is that with you may have as much tied up in interest on your current car as you are upside down on it... i.e, if you're paying $8,000 in interst on a $20,000 car, you're
paying $28,000 for that car. On the other hand, if you're putting a $8,000 in negative equity (3LT) on top of a $21,000 car (SS/SC) at 0.0% interest, you're still paying $28,000 for a $20,000 car.
I still think you MIGHT be screwed if you were to get in a wreck since the insurance company would only give you the list value of the car at best, but I'm not sure. Obviously this doesn't tie into JUST having a high interest rate (your current situation) as your payoff on your car is much less than the total amount you owe if you have anything above 0.0% financing.
What rate did you get if you don't mind my asking and how long is your original loan term? On a second thinking, it could be a good way to get yourself out of a bad situation since the ss/sc will likely hold it's resale value better..
any car close to 20,000 and over you will be paying 300 plus a month if you don't have a down payment, and finance short term. That's with good credit. I would just mod my cobalt into a cobalt ss. It will be cheaper in the long run, and with out all the extra finance charges.
I traded my 2.4 in for the SS/SC over july 4th... when GM was running their 0%... took a $3000 hit on the trade... ended up paying $25 more a month for the SS/SC... worth it in my opinion.
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