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Old Sep 23, 2014 | 07:36 PM
  #1301  
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From: Port Perry
Oh and all f35 require specialty tools. When trans shops call me looking for fifth gear assemblies (which are not sold by GM as a gear set ever) then I know they been screwing with pry bars and no puller tools
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Old Sep 23, 2014 | 07:53 PM
  #1302  
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From: The 405
Okay. I was just curious if it would be worth removing the two of them and shipping you the gears along with the differential(Already removed, I'm not messing with that lol) vs sending you an entire transmission.

Ps. Do you have any Cobalt F35 cores at the shop? I'm getting closer to having enough funds to send the 4.45s and diff up there for your special touch and treatment and then put in to a core with a cryo'd set of gears.
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 08:27 AM
  #1303  
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From: Port Perry
we do an exchange program the core charge makes it temporarily expensive.
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 08:54 AM
  #1304  
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Ordered some CABs. Can't wait for this ordeal.

Last edited by umrdyldo; Sep 24, 2014 at 11:05 AM.
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 10:37 AM
  #1305  
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From: The 405
Should I shoot an email to you or Gloria? It's end of the quarter so it's money time between overtime, monthly and quarterly bonuses. Im ready to get this **** done.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 04:55 PM
  #1306  
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John, will the spindle ducts you made fit the non SS cars? Pondering a set with ducting run from the fog light grills to help the smaller LT brakes for time attack.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 08:00 PM
  #1307  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Foximus
John, will the spindle ducts you made fit the non SS cars? Pondering a set with ducting run from the fog light grills to help the smaller LT brakes for time attack.
They might but that's not the issue. It's the cost of red silicine hose to bridge. And there is stuff in the way. Just fab a small blade on the control arm span that will be easy and work. Alloy Fab'd with slots for three hose clamps to keep in place. Try that
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 02:39 PM
  #1308  
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Originally Posted by Rickster
A month ago I contacted John and asked him where to start for my 2009 Cobalt SS to make it a better autocross car while still using it as my year-round DD.

John recommended the Hardcore RSB and the lower CABs. Fair enough. I live close enough that I drove over to his garage and thoroughly enjoyed the visit as he installed the parts (RSB I could do easily but NOT the lower CABs). Well worth the reasonable labour fees for the visit alone.

Review: big difference on the track but modest on the street = all good.

On the street I don't notice the ride being any rougher although an expansion strip mid-corner makes the rear hop a tiny bit more. So far, so good.

On the track: Wow.
I autocrossed the car once last year and then again this past weekend. The same guy was there both times and he is in a late-model Miata with Direzza ZII tires and he can drive that thing! Last year he was about 3 seconds a lap faster. Last weekend? A quarter of a second. I gained about three seconds and almost beat this car and driver.

I started off with the same tire pressures as last year: 38 F / 42 R. Last year it was hard to make the rear rotate and the front pushed moderately.

Last weekend on the first run, the back end started coming too much yet predictably. I lowered the rear tires 1 PSI each run and then upped the front by 1 PSI till I was around 39 F / 39 R. This was the setup for my best time and it felt the best.

Now I can easily tune to loosen up the rear as much or as little as I need. Invaluable.

John told me the CABs would help the front bite but I was a wee skeptical. Dang! I believe I can say I had no push at all. This is all the more amazing because I am using Hancook Ventus V2 500 treadwear performace all seasons that came with the car until I can buy better tires.

I can hardly wait to autocross on good tires when I hope to spank a few S2000s and Miatas

John, thanks again for the go-fast goodies and support for the Cobalt community. Hope to see you again as the budget permits

Regards,
Rick
Just finished the autoX season here with Powell lower CABs and the Hardcore bar. Had a great year with a some wins in my class (Super Stock) including some S2000s and Miatas that regularly finished ahead of me before. Even had a few people comment they were surprised how well the Coballt SS performed.

I expect the lower CABs did a great job but it was the Hardcore bar I noticed most. Within a range of about 8 psi on the rear I could go from neutral to just right to oversteer. So easy and predictable to tune for the tires and track conditions.

I just took the bar off for the winter. John, what are the torque specs for when I re-install in the Spring?

Last edited by Rickster; Oct 10, 2014 at 02:45 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 07:46 PM
  #1309  
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40-44 ft. lbs I believe. Somewhere in that area.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 04:35 AM
  #1310  
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It's 50
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 09:15 PM
  #1311  
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Thank you!
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 05:20 PM
  #1312  
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John, looking at doing your F23 rotated mount this winter. I picked up a LNF rear this week, and was wondering. Should I leave the stock rubber in it, or get a prothane insert? or is there something else you recommend in the back mount?
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 07:37 PM
  #1313  
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From: Port Perry
ya Rickster, with the 10.9 bolts we use now, 50 ft lbs is good for the bar. I would use the LNF rear as is with the spacer and my front mount for you , foximus.

I would not put an insert in it. If drag racing I would run our race rotated mounts. Not needed for road race or auto x track work imho

thanks for the input glad folks are doing so well on the competition front
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 12:54 AM
  #1314  
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10-4. Im on F23 stock mounts with Prothane inserts currently. Trying to find something better for time trial. Was considering your F23 rotated mount.. but if im reading your post correctly, I may be okay?
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 06:25 AM
  #1315  
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Originally Posted by Foximus
10-4. Im on F23 stock mounts with Prothane inserts currently. Trying to find something better for time trial. Was considering your F23 rotated mount.. but if im reading your post correctly, I may be okay?
I think he's saying run his front mount with an LNF in the back with the spacer, if you were looking for a drag set up run both front and rear Powell mounts.
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 08:43 AM
  #1316  
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i may be after the drag mounts soon then. didnt know you even offered them
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 08:53 AM
  #1317  
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Originally Posted by bmxracerchamp12
i may be after the drag mounts soon then. didnt know you even offered them
Its just rotated mounts for the front and back, instead of just the front with a spacer in the rear. It is literally for someone who is going to do some serious racing and not bitch about vibes, because you'll have them.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 07:12 AM
  #1318  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by ECaulk
Its just rotated mounts for the front and back, instead of just the front with a spacer in the rear. It is literally for someone who is going to do some serious racing and not bitch about vibes, because you'll have them.
they dont have rubber inserts is the difference Different material with alloy bolt sleeves in a stock housing, rotated.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 07:20 AM
  #1319  
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Here's an example....

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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 07:21 AM
  #1320  
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
they dont have rubber inserts is the difference Different material with alloy bolt sleeves in a stock housing, rotated.
I forgot that was the main difference.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 08:46 AM
  #1321  
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
Its just rotated mounts for the front and back, instead of just the front with a spacer in the rear. It is literally for someone who is going to do some serious racing and not bitch about vibes, because you'll have them.
no bitching here. my car already shakes a lot from the cams and poly mounts everywhere
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 12:01 PM
  #1322  
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From: kenner
4.45 trans or gears

[qOTE=Powell Race Parts;7431384]they dont have rubber inserts is the difference Different material with alloy bolt sleeves in a stock housing, rotated.[/QUOTE]

I have a 7163 zfr and it eventually will go. How do I go about getting 4.45 from yall in my trans or get a whole 4.45 trans and what are the prices on something like that
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Old May 10, 2015 | 10:41 PM
  #1323  
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John, I know you've heard it a thousand times on here, but you really need to invest in a complete website. I recently ordered a product from a competitor on here and in retrospect, I wish I had ordered yours. My money went to them primarily because ease of use of their website interface, their full descriptions with links to other needed items, and easy check out. You are literally saying 'no thanks' to additional revenue because you don't have a functional, 21st century, product delivery method, yet you clearly have the best products on the market. I'm not trying to bash or hate, just MHO. You'd get a lot more business if business could be easily conducted.
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Old May 10, 2015 | 11:28 PM
  #1324  
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All you have to do is email Gloria get invoice, pay, get your items its not that hard
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Old May 11, 2015 | 07:45 AM
  #1325  
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I agree with pinky demon, a ton of people arent going to go through with emails, all that does is give.them time to back out of a deal. If that website was running properly with good pics descriptions and info, and ts all out there, you would get a lot more business from passerby consumers and lurkers.
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