Tips to buying an SS?
Tips to buying an SS?
Meeting a guy on wednesday to look at his, its an 05 SS/SC with 55k miles is there any common problems that happen to SS's That I could look for? or things that would need to be fixed? or have I just been hanging out on the SRT forums too much? Its also under GM warranty untill 60k miles
the fuel pump and cat both are under a semi recall until 120,000 miles whether you have extended warranty or not. and your clutch will probably go out soon depending upon how it was driven, but i really dont expect that to be covered under warranty.
Semi Recall? is that like...inbetween a minor thing and a toyota gas pedal?
Semi-recall basically means that GM acknolwedges there is an issue with it, but it isn't a safety issue. They basically just raised the warranty on the cat and will reimburse you if you already bought a new one. If you ever get a CEL because of a clogged cat, you won't have to pay for a repair unless your car goes above 120,000 miles. The LSJ engine has a rich AFR stock, which is what causes the premature cat failure. My SS doesn't even have 50,000 on it yet and it is already on its second cat.
As far as 05 goes, you have to treat them like any other used car. Make sure you look over it closely and drive it. The clutch shouldn't be slipping, the engine should be sounding good. Since you're in Florida, the chassis should be mostly rust free (Unless you live on the coast), but check it anyways.
Things to check that are SS Specific are the supercharger (If it sounds like there are rocks in the supercharger when at idle, the supercharger coupler will need replaced).
I'd say check the door handles (The cobalt is notorious for having the chrome peel off of the interior ones, creating a hazard to your hands), the window bezels (Paint tends to fail on these). Check the hubs for bearing wear (You'll hear it when driving if they're bad). See if the trans shifts smooth (Synchros tend to fail on the Cobalt). If you have permission, take it on a quick WOT run to make sure it doesn't throw a CEL when you inevitably decide to beat on it. Just make sure you scruitize every small detail on the car since these cars do see more abuse than your average cobalt. You've been on the SRT forums, so you know how many people drive sport compacts.
Clutches are always a wear item with most manufactuers. The Cobalt does have a sturdy clutch, but it is sensitive to glazing if you overheat it (Usually from shifting it before 3,000 RPM). Unless the previous owner had a bad habit of riding the clutch or acting like holding the clutch down at a light was the same as putting it in neutral, your clutch and throw out bearing should last unless you decide to add a large amount of power to the car.
As far as 05 goes, you have to treat them like any other used car. Make sure you look over it closely and drive it. The clutch shouldn't be slipping, the engine should be sounding good. Since you're in Florida, the chassis should be mostly rust free (Unless you live on the coast), but check it anyways.
Things to check that are SS Specific are the supercharger (If it sounds like there are rocks in the supercharger when at idle, the supercharger coupler will need replaced).
I'd say check the door handles (The cobalt is notorious for having the chrome peel off of the interior ones, creating a hazard to your hands), the window bezels (Paint tends to fail on these). Check the hubs for bearing wear (You'll hear it when driving if they're bad). See if the trans shifts smooth (Synchros tend to fail on the Cobalt). If you have permission, take it on a quick WOT run to make sure it doesn't throw a CEL when you inevitably decide to beat on it. Just make sure you scruitize every small detail on the car since these cars do see more abuse than your average cobalt. You've been on the SRT forums, so you know how many people drive sport compacts.
Clutches are always a wear item with most manufactuers. The Cobalt does have a sturdy clutch, but it is sensitive to glazing if you overheat it (Usually from shifting it before 3,000 RPM). Unless the previous owner had a bad habit of riding the clutch or acting like holding the clutch down at a light was the same as putting it in neutral, your clutch and throw out bearing should last unless you decide to add a large amount of power to the car.
Last edited by Nighthawk243; Mar 21, 2010 at 11:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
The car only has 8k hids painted stockers and wingless, So, assuming it wasn't returned to stock, I should be good in the engine taking TOO servere of a beating, but, we all do it, and a stock boosted car just kinda asks for it.
And I've never heard a supercharged cars enginebay, I'm assumed It would just sound like any other belt in the car at idle? but the rocks would sound like something being tossed around inside it like you said?
Also, like any other giddy little person I'm shopping around already for go fast parts, I already know Modernperformance from SRT's and ARK from my tiburon, but who sells the Stage kits?
If you're getting an extended warrenty, GM would be safest, but it'll cost a pretty penny. But it wont void your warrenty if something goes wrong. You can get a kit else were, but if you have the warrenty, id suggest buying a 2nd PCM and keeping the stock parts so you can swap before taking it to a dealer for warrenty work.
I have seen 05's with less problems.
06's have a lot of problems. Fuel pump module just to name one.
Power steering
Intercooler pump
Sunroof(if applicable)
Control Arm bushings
CLUTCH
I can't afford to buy a brand new car haha, nor do I need one
Ty for all the info so far guys....uhmm..What do you guys pays for insurance usually?
I pay 68 a month for my tib and alot of people say tibs are expensive to insure, though its all under my dads name with discounts and such
Ty for all the info so far guys....uhmm..What do you guys pays for insurance usually?
I pay 68 a month for my tib and alot of people say tibs are expensive to insure, though its all under my dads name with discounts and such
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