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Oh certainly. But in the end it gets covered up so I'm not too worried about my completed work. My job has been killing me as of late so I haven't had the time or energy to continue.
thats exactly what I said lol. Yeah I've been doing like 3-4 out it the last 2 Saturdays and I did like 85% of the trunk and rear seat like 90%. So far its been good.. i think I could of gone for a bit thicker so help with outside noise but I'm sure the more panels I cover the better it will get
thats exactly what I said lol. Yeah I've been doing like 3-4 out it the last 2 Saturdays and I did like 85% of the trunk and rear seat like 90%. So far its been good.. i think I could of gone for a bit thicker so help with outside noise but I'm sure the more panels I cover the better it will get
The floor and the firewall should really cut the noise down. When I was looking at the roof, there isn't a whole lot of space to place some matting down so I'm not sure about that. The doors sound much better for sound, especially when simply opening or closing the doors; not that tin rattle that happens. The one thing I did learn is the door panel itself should also get the treatment as that (and the door controls) rattle quite a bit if the rest of the door gets the matting done.
just keep in mind the flatter the panel and the less the noise has to travel through the greater the impact is. the doors roof and quarter panel are probably the worst. under the seat while is a large flat surface has all that foam to go through to reach your ears. still worth tackling though
Installed 2 wolfram AG12's along with a Woflram AW3000.1. Holy **** do these things pound. I'm also running 4 alpine type R speakers powered by a DB drive 800.4. Also made a 1/2 inch birch floor to strap the subs to.
Last edited by cobaltssdude420; Aug 7, 2020 at 06:53 PM.
In not quite sure where to put this but here goes, I have an 07 Chevy cobalt lt with the 2.2 ecotec engine. I recently discovered something that concerns me. This car has had a vibration on the front driver side wheel and I might have found the culprit. I will post pictures when I find out how to upload. Has anyone had this problem? And no its not wheel balance. I apologize Im sure this isnt in the correct thread. Any help is appreciated.
In not quite sure where to put this but here goes, I have an 07 Chevy cobalt lt with the 2.2 ecotec engine. I recently discovered something that concerns me. This car has had a vibration on the front driver side wheel and I might have found the culprit. I will post pictures when I find out how to upload. Has anyone had this problem? And no its not wheel balance. I apologize Im sure this isnt in the correct thread. Any help is appreciated.
Post images by pressing this button:
...and then uploading the pictures.
Your problem is a super common issues on any car and very generic. Axles, control arm bushings, ball joint, tire, bent wheel. Any of those things can cause a front end vibration. Many of them will happen in the life of the car as maintenance to those items is required.
I have had a rough idle since I've owned the car. Seafoam sadly didn't work as i hoped on coking. I used CRC Monday. Sprayed through turbo and through vac line, center manifold. Smoked a lot during application. Let it heat soak for an hour. Drove her as directed but little smoke if any came out. Surprisingly my cold start idle is smoothed out. Seems like over all it has smoothed out. I may buy another can and do it again in 800 miles before my oil change is up.
I am curious to try Revive Turbo Cleaner. European product originated from a chemical cleaner for commercial jet engines. I can only find it for sale on Ebay it seems to the states. Anyone ever try it??
I'd reccomend CRC for routine maintenance of intake valves.
I haven't done it yet, but my list is growing. In the next two weeks the following list should all be installed.
New FE5 Control Arms
OTTP Spherical CABs
OTTP Leading CABs (ordered not pictured)
OTTP Upper Trans Mount
OTTP Engine Mount
New Axles also from OTTP
New Cloyes Timing Set
Moog Sway Bar Endlinks
Moog Sway Bar Bushings
ZZP 3.25 Fender Well Intake
NGK Spark Plugs
I haven't done it yet, but my list is growing. In the next two weeks the following list should all be installed.
New FE5 Control Arms
OTTP Spherical CABs
OTTP Leading CABs (ordered not pictured)
OTTP Upper Trans Mount
OTTP Engine Mount
New Axles also from OTTP
New Cloyes Timing Set
Moog Sway Bar Endlinks
Moog Sway Bar Bushings
ZZP 3.25 Fender Well Intake
NGK Spark Plugs
It also looks like you have a timing chain set in there as well.
I haven't done it yet, but my list is growing. In the next two weeks the following list should all be installed.
New FE5 Control Arms
OTTP Spherical CABs
OTTP Leading CABs (ordered not pictured)
OTTP Upper Trans Mount
OTTP Engine Mount
New Axles also from OTTP
New Cloyes Timing Set
Moog Sway Bar Endlinks
Moog Sway Bar Bushings
ZZP 3.25 Fender Well Intake
NGK Spark Plugs
if you have any questions about some of that stuff let me know and I'll try to help out as much as possible
Is there a particular reason why your doing the timing set? Just preventative or making noise?
Axles are shot they click when turning at low speeds. They seem to fine any other time, but seems time to swap them they have served well over the last 12 years. 130k on stock axles, lowered and driven hard. Control arms also original, they may still be good, I haven't really checked. I have wanted to upgrade for a while, so I figured if I'm putting $350 into them in bushings I might as well start with a new one so I know the ball joint is good. Same with the sway bar end Links and bushings 12 years of abuse. OEM mounts are probably good, but OTTP makes great looking mounts and I got them at a great price. I'm on the fence with the timing kit. It is original and is not making noise, I have not seen any pieces of the guides missing, and the chain seems fine, but I kinda want to change it before it goes and leave me screwed. The intake, well it was was on sale, and my K&N is ugly.
All in all. I'm giving back to the car that has taken my abuse and has held up to everything thrown at it in the last few years especially. Between autocross, drag, twisty roads, canyon runs, road trips( VA to CA, CA back to VA, many trips to PA, NY, Florida, Tennessee, TOTD,)
Most of it's pretty straight forward. I haven't done Axles any tips on removal, besides pull real hard?
Also not 100% on the timing kit yet. I havent dug into that yet.
For the axle in the half shaft, start spraying some penetrating fluid early in the day and hit it a few times. I just pulled my axles this weekend while doing the R&R on my cobalt, hit the joint at the half shaft with penetrating fluid 4-5 times over ~3h and then it popped right out with a little leverage. I didn't coat the splines with some grease or never seize when I installed it so there was some rust in there (granted at that point it had been broken down and was liquid).
I'd also throw tie rod ends on your list. I didn't think mine were bad, but the moog problem solvers were 20ish a side so I said why not. Pulled them and they had around 1/2" of resistance free travel.
For the axle in the half shaft, start spraying some penetrating fluid early in the day and hit it a few times. I just pulled my axles this weekend while doing the R&R on my cobalt, hit the joint at the half shaft with penetrating fluid 4-5 times over ~3h and then it popped right out with a little leverage. I didn't coat the splines with some grease or never seize when I installed it so there was some rust in there (granted at that point it had been broken down and was liquid).
I'd also throw tie rod ends on your list. I didn't think mine were bad, but the moog problem solvers were 20ish a side so I said why not. Pulled them and they had around 1/2" of resistance free travel.
Good to know. I'll pick up something to spray on there today Any thought as to the inner tie rod? I swapped one on my base model years ago. What type of grease should I use on the splines for install?
actually axles for me have always been easy to remove lol. Jist used a pry bar and they almost come out with no force.
I recently did timing so still kinda fresh
I'm likely doing timing this weekend and I have the service manual so it should be easy but i can help with torque specs and such (I'm doing phasers too)
actually axles for me have always been easy to remove lol. Jist used a pry bar and they almost come out with no force.
That's probably because you live in the desert.
People that live in rainy areas, and especially people that live in snowy areas where they pour salt on the roads, have to deal with the splines rusting into the half shaft.
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