Hey site brains. Question. If I am installing a CX Racing intercooler as well as Dual Pass Option B, do I need to connect an air bleed line to the CX Racing H/E as well, or is the air bleed to the stock H/E good enough?

 

I discovered a way that solved all of the problems I was having.
I am installing dual pass and option B with the CX H/E

I wanted to install the CX racing intercooler and remove the stock one, but then I was wondering how to bleed the air. The stock intercooler has a fitting for this:
But I wanted to use the CX racing intercooler without modification. I have to thank Flatgod and the dude at WSL auto parts for the idea.

 

I just finished what I consider to be a long but rewarding install of the dual pass system. I found some GREAT tips that can, among others, save you time and frustration. Check out the PDF I made, with photos:

http://northernstardesigns.com/artic...odsInstall.pdf

You should also have the GM instructions as a reference / bible:
http://northernstardesigns.com/artic...nb/sidekit.pdf

I hope that helps answer all the questions people have. If nothing else, save you trips to the store while your car is on jackstands!

 

i was all set and ready to get a dual pass from OTTP but now i dont think ill be able to install it!! my best friend is in UTI and he is the one that will be helping me do the install but i still dont think ill be able to do this help!!

 

You can do it just take your time & use your brain...it really isn't that hard! The hardest is pulling the laminova's & mounting the Reservoir, but now they make premade brackets so that isn't hard either!
Hell I did it 2 years ago when there where no brackets... you had to make them, I did it with vauge instructions & I added a Dual pass front mount H/E.

 

I felt the same way. You just need to follow the steps and take some time. Give yourself 2 full days so that you can go on a parts run a few times if needed. Also, try to plan it out in your head what has to be done, just to make sure you have everything you need for tools, etc. The below was written about the install on my car, and it wasn't difficult at all, just took time because I wanted to think about each step, and enjoyed working on it with friends.

 

thanks guys maybe ill try doing it afterward and after reading all this looks like it would be a good idea to do a option b tank too ill have to look into that as well but me and my buddy already had a 2 day install planed ill be installing an OTTP h/e and dual pass along with my vibrant header and dp combo and i have dual interctors ill be installing as well so hopefully i dont mess to much up :P

 

The interceptors shouldn't take an hour. Let me know if you need any help with those. If you aren't adding an option B tank, it will take a lot less time as well. 2 days should be perfect to go at a relaxed pace.

 

well after a h/e and dual pass i dont think i will need the option b since these are all the mods i have planed for my car! and yeah i didn't think the interceptors would take long at all and like i said my buddy is going to be fresh out of UTI so even fi we take our sweet time we should have plenty of time and i think the vibrant header and dp combo will only take a few hours too

 

The option B is the best part of the dual pass, you will run hotter without it...because air is still trapped in the system!

 

True, the air bleed it a great part of the system....... The other option is to check the levels of the h/e every oil change. Apparently for Ions, it's 2 slip pins and you can remove the entire headlight, and check the levels ( a bit harder for cobalts). (Just playing devil's advocate - I myself prefer the extra tank).

 

well if i have the funds at the time ill add one of thes too does the one one from Gmcreatdept come with everything needed?

 

When taking off the intake manifold is there 5 bolts and 2 nuts .... or are there 7 bolts and 2 nuts? I was looking at the one with the pics and it says only 5?

I've taken off the 5 bolts and 2 nuts but it's really hard to get the manifold off still, I've used a pry bar and got it off as much as possible .... Unfortunately not enough though.

I'll wait to hear back so that I don't take the IC pump off for nothing.

 

there are 5 bolts, 2 nuts (on 2 studs), and a hidden 8th bolt below the intake manifold that is best accessed by removing the alternator.

it is easiest to take out the bolts, nuts, AND studs then get to the 8th bolt using a mix of extensions and u-joints/swivels. you should not have to take the i/c pump off at all

 

so let me get this straight, There are 2 t fittings. one goes to the outs on the endplate and one hose going to the second t fitting which has the surge tank and ic pump in. Is this correct?

 

i have option b tank in my car and just wondering the small hose that is connected to the tank and the heat exchanger is that spose to push the coolant back into the tank. mine used to now no coolant is being pushed back into tank.

 

there should be another thread for that. this is more for a flow thru tank. but I would guess as long as there's coolant flowing thru the system you should be fine.